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Victoria, BC. Who's the best to service, repair?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Moosemilk, Dec 6, 2016.

  1. Moosemilk

    Moosemilk New Member

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    I'm being asked to pay between $230 and $320 to just diagnose a problem that I think should be covered under the Extended Care Plan, which, as I'm discovering, holds little if any value.

    So, I don't want to get ripped off.

    Does anyone know of a good/honest/cheap mechanic who can work on a Prius 3rd Gen in the Victoria, BC, area?

    Thanks,

    MM
     
    #1 Moosemilk, Dec 6, 2016
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Answers to your question might be more to the point if you can describe the nature of the problem, at least what you suspect.

    These ever growing "diagnosis charges" bug me too, btw. You can shell out, and get nowhere.
     
    #2 Mendel Leisk, Dec 6, 2016
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  3. Moosemilk

    Moosemilk New Member

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    I agree. Is this a trend with all shops or just dealers?

    The problem started this morning trying to start my 2010 Gen 3 Prius.

    Originally started fine. Then after 5 minutes of idle I noticed the gas engine wasn't kicking in. It was the first real cold day here in Victoria (-2C). Then I noticed couldn't turn it off and on again. Various on board lights were coming on but the ones around the entertainment console weren't. Then it got to the point where I couldn't turn the power off, put it into reverse or drive. The headlights stayed on and I heard that electric humming sound but that was it. The headlights faded and eventually all that stayed on was the check engine light.

    I engaged the emergency brake and left it for awhile thinking that maybe I had to "reset" something.

    Tow truck came by and gave it a boost which started it but he couldn't disengage the emergency brake. He still managed to get it up on his flat bed trailer though and tow it to Jim Pattison.

    So, I'm royally confused.

    Is it just a dying battery that I'm dealing with?

    I bought it used at 97,000km and I'm not sure if the 12v battery was ever replaced. It's sitting at 109,000km now.

    Could it be the battery in the key fob?
     
    #3 Moosemilk, Dec 6, 2016
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  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i would start by testing the 12 volt.
     
    #4 bisco, Dec 6, 2016
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  5. Moosemilk

    Moosemilk New Member

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    Thanks Bisco.

    Just talked to the dealership. The car starts fine and no dashboard indicators like the check engine light stay on.

    So, this is still confusing.

    Would walking away with the remote key out of range of the the cars ability to detect it trigger some event like this?
     
    #5 Moosemilk, Dec 6, 2016
  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    no, how else would you walk away? ask them what trouble codes they pulled, and post here.
     
    #6 bisco, Dec 6, 2016
  7. Tideland Prius

    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North
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    The "headlights fading" would point me to a dead/dying 12V battery. A dead 12V battery can trigger all sorts of warning lights too.

    So, I would do that first. especially since you bought it used. It's possible the place you bought it never bothered to tender the battery and just charged it once before you picked it up.

    I'm still on my original 12V battery (bought my car in Aug 2009) but I've never drained it once. Our 2005 Prius had its battery drained twice (left the headlights on) and it was a goner in 3 or 4 years. Battery maintenance makes a difference.
     
    #7 Tideland Prius, Dec 6, 2016
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  8. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    many dealerships have no clue about the prius 12v, unfortunately. you could have a borderline problem that only shows up in cold weather.
     
    #8 bisco, Dec 6, 2016
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Look into Solar BA5 tester. It tests Cranking Amps, and voltage (which is showing, hopeless amount of "surface charge" at that moment I think). You enter the battery "type" and spec'd. cranking amps, or cold cranking amps. Either will do. It then tells you actual cranking amps (or various other units), and gives assessment: either good, good but recharge, or fail.

    You could ask for one under the tree. :)

    upload_2016-12-6_18-46-30.png
    ($71 and change on Amazon.ca)

    Better view of the display, this time showing CCA:

    upload_2016-12-6_18-53-51.png
     
    #9 Mendel Leisk, Dec 6, 2016
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2016
  10. Tideland Prius

    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North
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    @Mendel Leisk , are there 3rd party batteries for the Gen 3 size? Or did you put a full size 12V in the back?
     
    #10 Tideland Prius, Dec 7, 2016
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I used this Optima, it's completely compatible. Description on the bill from SaskBattery:


    OPTIMA YELLOW TOP POST TERMINAL PRIUS BATTERY

    46B24R

    And some notes:

    Optima Yellow Top:
    Group Size: GR#51JIS: 46B24R
    CCA: 450
    CA: 575
    Length: 9.272 in
    Width: 5.024 in
    Height: 8.885 in
    web page:
     
    #11 Mendel Leisk, Dec 7, 2016
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  12. David Beale

    David Beale Senior Member

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    The little device Mendel showed us is safe, as it doesn't actually -fully- load the battery, but be careful allowing a mechanic to connect his "cranking amp tester" to your Prius 12V battery. Our 12V battery was never meant to actually "crank" an engine (100-150 Amps), and will suffer internal damage if tested to those parameters. The device Mendel showed us uses "pulse technology" to load the battery for milliseconds only. No damage there.

    For those who don't remember, the Prius draws one or two half second 50 Amp pulses from the 12V battery to get to "ready". It will succeed if the voltage stays above about 10V.

    This is why the failure is "sudden". The battery was slowly failing over time (as all batteries do), and "suddenly" it wasn't good enough to do the above.

    A very simple test of the 12V battery is to just turn on the headlamps without turning on the car. If they are very dim (yellow) your battery should be checked. If they are nice and bright (white) you are probably ok. You could also just use a voltmeter on the battery or "boost point" during the "headlamp test". If the voltage drops below 10.5V or so it may be time to get a new battery.
    The headlamps draw over 10 Amps for halogen, 5 Amps for LED and HID on low beam. If a door is open add another 3-4 Amps for interior lights.
     
    #12 David Beale, Dec 7, 2016
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  13. Tideland Prius

    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North
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    Thanks!
     
    #13 Tideland Prius, Dec 7, 2016
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