Ok, all the modules are charged and balanced. No breaks on any of the sensor wires at the buss bar. I cleaned up all the buss bar connections while I had it off. However, one of the module studs just spins, although I don't think it was doing that before I tried to tighten it more - and, again, that module shows a balanced charge, so I don't think it was my original problem. I put the battery back in just to see if cleaning the bass bar and tightening those nuts fixed the problem and NO, it acts exactly the same way. I guess there's a chance that I fixed the original problem, but created a new one with the spinning nut, but it acted exactly the same. The manual calls for a test of the voltage min/max using a Toyota handheld device that I don't have, with a failed test indicating a bad battery ECU. Another step is to check the buss bar continuity, but the leads on my multimeter won't fit into the tiny holes of the connector. Do I next: 1. find a tiny wire that will fit into the connector pins and touch my lead to that to test continuity? 2. Just buy a new buss bar. 3. Replace that module with the spinning nut. 4. Swap in a battery ECU from the bad battery I have 5. Buy a new ECU 6. 1-4, or 1-3 and 5. Not sure if the small wire would work, or how I'd know whether it wasn't working or the sensor really didn't have continuity. The buss bar isn't a complicated part, so I'm hesitant to buy a new one without seeing something wrong with this one. I haven't removed the one on the opposite side because it's even less complicated. Not sure how the spinning nut could cause an open circuit and yet still charge up the module. Is there any way to test the ECU without that handheld device? Or test the one in my bad battery before swapping it in?
