trunk won't open

1) Key fob battery - does it do it with both fobs or only one fob? You may want to change key fob batteries if they have not been changed.
2) 12V battery - test the 12V battery. The door locks are one of the first symptons of a discharged 12V battery.

 

could it be frozen? we had an ice storm over the weekend and my doors were frozen solid. rain got into the gaps and froze everything shut.

 

Assuming you have already replace the key fob battery, try below.

Can you open it from the outside with your hand (with key fob close by)?
If not, you may have to open the trunk from inside. I had to do it once because the 12V battery ran out of juice one day. It was not an easy task if you are big in size. You'd have to fold down the rear seats, climb to the cargo area, lift up the flip up cargo floor, remove the cargo tray before you can gain access the opening to the manual release.
Once you had it opened, you can try open and close a few more times with the key fob in hand again.
Hope you can figure out what's wrong.

 

You have a 2010.

This means you need to think about getting a new aux battery...

OR.....a hammer.


Your call....

 

In Joisey?
Probably.
The battery is horribly weak in the G3.
Mine went Tango-Uniform at 25K after a year and a half, and I live in a MUCH more battery friendly climate!
Pay a little extra for the Optima Yellow top and for GOD's sake don't let the dealer do it!
If you can't DIY, then see about getting a friend or an independent shop to do it.

I'm sure that the Garden State has one or two Prius tinkerers.

If the problem with the hatch recurs, you will probably only have replaced the battery a few months before it failed completely anyway, and it's winter up there.

Read in the manual and walk through the steps necessary to jump start the G3.
Remember!
Polarity is important, current isn't.
You're not Jump Starting the car.....you're booting it up.
I think that you could do it with "D" cell batteries, and I'm certain that you could do it with a 12v DeWalt battery pack!!!
Just make sure that you do it right if you have to, which is why you should review the manual BEFORE you have to.

Good Luck!

 

While you were driving to the dealer, the Aux battery topped-of its power by the Hybrid Synergy Drive system, a surface charge as it is call.

 

'10's are notorious for bad battery. wouldn't hurt to test it.

 

I was concerned that my friend BISCO was not chinning in.

 

thanks for keeping an eye out mb!

 

battery DOESN't care about miles driven, neither the 12V nor the HV ... they care cycles over discharge(s) and temperature extrems 12V aux battery 3 years could be the limit ... your low mileage also indicates that the 12V was not regularly recharged ... in cold days it takes almost an hour to get fully charged by driving from a low SOC (like 3-4 days on the driveway or something was on)... and this is NOT good for the 12v battery simply

I agree with the recommendations at least had it tested and likely to be replaced.

 

I agree. The problem went away because the battery recharged while drivin to the dealer. Dying batterys can seem to hold full charge for a short time when recharged.

 

It sounds like the sensor or a wire ground running to it is loose...

 

If you did not see a red light on the key fob when you pressed the remote button then that is an indication of a failed fob battery.

 

Most likely a failing 12 volt battery. It could also be a faulty sensor. The sensor is located under the bumper vertically below the rear hatch lock. It's possible that at some stage moisture has entered the connector. It could be the lock itself with an intermittent fault. All this is guessing of course.