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Toyota Electrical Tester Set

Discussion in 'Knowledge Base Articles Discussion' started by Elektroingenieur, May 6, 2017.

  1. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    In Toyota’s repair manuals, many of the Recommended Tools sections refer to the Toyota Electrical Tester Set, part number 09080-1C111, and its companion AC/DC 400A Probe Set, part number 09080-2C111, a digital multimeter (DMM or DVOM) and clamp-on current probe, respectively. I was curious about the features and specifications of these instruments, and I thought I’d share what I’ve learned.

    The Toyota list prices (¥43,000 and ¥37,600) were too high to buy examples from Japan just to compare with instruments I already had, and I couldn’t find much other information, aside from Toyota bulletins S-1003 and S-2005 announcing part number changes and a few photographs of secondhand units offered for sale, but I believe I’ve identified the actual manufacturer.

    The multimeter and the current probe are strikingly similar to products of Kaise Corporation (pronounced kai-say), a Japanese maker of electrical instruments established in 1955. The multimeter appears to be a Kaise SK-6150 (instructions), and the current probe appears to be a Kaise 660 (instructions). The versions produced for Toyota and DENSO (as the DGT-2) might have internal differences, but I think this is unlikely.

    Toyota’s meter accessories also appear to correspond to Kaise products:

    Toyota 09082-1C111 Base Lead — Kaise 100-40 Lead Wires
    Toyota 09082-1C121 Test Bar — Kaise 766 Test Pipes
    Toyota 09082-1C131 Pin 2.0 mm — Kaise 767 Test Pins
    Toyota 09082-1C141 Pin 0.5 mm — Kaise 792 Straight Test Pins
    Toyota 09082-1C151 Alligator Clip — Kaise 948 Alligator Clips
    Toyota 09082-1C161 IC Clip — Kaise 949 IC Clips (Japanese page)​

    (The first four of these items are part of the Test Lead Set, Toyota part number 09080-2C101.)

    Comparing the specifications linked above and in Kaise’s General Catalog (5.7 MB PDF) with those of the Fluke 87V multimeter and Fluke i410 AC/DC current clamp shown in Toyota’s service training materials for the U.S. market, I’d prefer the Fluke multimeter, despite the higher price, but the Kaise current probe and test leads might be worth buying, if you needed them and didn’t mind paying for shipping from Japan.

    Note that the instruments discussed in this post are for measuring voltage, current, resistance, and frequency; they are not a replacement for OBD II code readers or proprietary diagnostic tools like Toyota’s Techstream or Intelligent Tester.

    In case anyone is searching, older versions of the tester and current probe had Toyota part numbers 09082-00040, 09082-00050, 09080-1C110, 09083-00350 and 09080-2C110.
     
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  2. Elektroingenieur

    Elektroingenieur Senior Member

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    To update the information above: Toyota announced the discontinuation of the Toyota Electrical Tester Set, part number 09080-1C111, in European technical service bulletin S-0112-TMC, dated August 1, 2020; the bulletin didn’t mention a replacement.

    In Japan, however, the November 2021 edition of Toyota’s Service Tool catalog (in Japanese) includes a new version, part number 09080-1C113, list price ¥43,000. From the photo, I believe it’s a custom version of a Kaise KT-2022 automotive digital multimeter, with fewer measurement modes. The current probe (probably still a Kaise 660), test leads, and other accessories remain available.

    For reference, here are the basic specifications for the Kaise KT-2022. Toyota’s version might differ, of course.

    e_spec_kt2021.png

    The KT-2022 is rated CAT II 1000 V, CAT III 600 V, and CAT IV 300 V; I don’t know the ratings for Toyota’s version. These measurement category ratings are important for the user’s safety, since the meter might be exposed to high voltage, especially when used on vehicles that have hybrid system isolation faults or other malfunctions.

    For the Kaise 660 current probe:

    e_spec_660.png
     
  3. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    As I understand it, in ratings like that you are looking at a couple of related things; one of them is definitely important for your safety in a hybrid vehicle, and the other is not as important there, but is important if you'll also use the meter for other things, like measurements on utility-connected wiring. Which makes it definitely important, as most of us probably aren't going to own a flock of different multimeters for different uses.

    The steady-voltage part of the rating (the 1000 V or 600 V or 300 V) is important in the car. You do have to remember that the traction battery in a standard Prius is nominally over 200 V and can be closer to 300 V at high charge rates, and inside the inverter (if everything isn't discharged) can be up to 650 V.

    The CAT II or CAT III or CAT IV part is the IEC measurement category (Elektroingenieur already kindly gave the Wikipedia link), and that has more to do with the safety of the meter when used in other settings, like wiring connected to the utility grid. Another useful link is here.

    The idea there is that even when you know the steady working voltage, there can be instants where the voltage goes much higher, say because of a lightning strike in another part of town. A "CAT III 600 V" meter is designed for circuits that are never normally above 600 V, but it will also safely handle spikes up to 6,000 V. That's the sort of thing that does happen in grid-connected systems, but probably not when you are measuring the self-contained systems in your car.

    The danger of a meter with a too-low CAT rating when that happens is severe. There are some documents from Fluke that explain it well. If an incoming surge exceeds the meter's CAT rating, it can initiate an arc. The surge is done after an instant, but the arc isn't, because once begun, it is now a dead short across the utility supply, and quickly enfolds you in its incandescent caresses. All of which happens too fast for anybody to do a thing about it.

    bang.png

    That illustration comes from a Fluke doc, "ABCs of multimeter safety", that can be found, for example, here.

    In a self-contained setting like the car, that's not a likely scenario, making the CAT rating less of a consideration there.

    It's also worth noting that meter models can change over the years; Fluke especially seems fond of keeping popular model numbers around for decades. A modern-day "Fluke 87" (well, they have added a Roman-numeral generation, so now it's the 87V) has CAT III 1000 V and CAT IV 600 V ratings. But my Fluke 87 that I've had for 30+ years and still works great, thankyouverymuch, has no CAT ratings. It was built just shortly before this CAT rating scheme existed. I kind of hate to put it out to pasture when it still works fine, but maybe it's time to make it the car multimeter, and buy something newer for general use around the house.
     
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