Techstream bleed process after brake booster and accumulator replacement

When you go through the full procedure in Techstream, I'm pretty sure it even learns the linear solenoid offset for you at the end of the procedure, so you don't have to bother with that second step (unless the system still shows the code about wanting it to be done).

It's all pretty straightforward if you just start the procedure in Techstream and follow the prompts. Make sure the 12 volt battery is well charged before you start, and try not to dawdle during the procedure.

Remove the windshield wipers and cowl before you start, because they're in the way of the stroke simulator bleed screw, and you don't want to get to mid-procedure where it says to bleed that, and then realize you have to take those out while the car's IG-ON and the battery is draining.

 

What are you using for a dongle?

My first bleed attempt I had to start over from the beginning five times before it got all the way through. I was ready to set things on fire. The next time I wanted to bleed I used a different dongle (same laptop, same Techstream version, just different dongle) and got through it in one.

 

you need a mongoose... or openport.. make sure the open port is authentic... I have 3-4 nonauthentic versions bricked..
VCX nano also works.

 

Also if you've got 3–4 nonauthentic versions bricked, that means at least 3–4 payments you've sent supporting people who make and sell counterfeit versions of someone else's real product. Which is not the same as making a legit competing product of their own, the way competition is s'posed to work.

 

you know.. I agree, just, I only bought one and now have a real one. the others were replacements.

 

Hi Matt, I am experiencing the same problem you described on this thread. My abs breeding keeps failing at the stroke simulator step. I didn’t have any trouble bleeding the 4 wheels, only when I get to the stroke simulator, I hear a clicking sound under the dash and then an error message appeared saying the bleeding procedure has failed. I used an inexpensive vci cable that I order off Amazon, but then I ordered a xtool scanning tool. All has failed at the stroke simulator step thus far.

Did you manage to resolve this issue? If you did, what did you do differently? Some say to get a Mongoose vci cable, is that what you did? Please advise. Thanks in advance.

Sean

 

You know, I often try to tell people, and I've written blog articles highlighting this: when it comes to the Prius and its OBD2 port, it's built differently. You can't rely on knock-off or generic low-cost devices. Despite what some might say about cheap options on Amazon or Veepak/Carista working for them, you'll likely hit an immovable brick wall.

Having a proper OBD2 device is critical for any DIY projects or monitoring/checking the battery of a Prius. It's not just about cost—it's about functionality and reliability. When you see folks showing voltages or other readings from their OBD2 devices, especially when testing HV Lithium batteries, I bet they aren't using a device with the hardware and reading capabilities of the one I recommend.

Not to confuse you, I know you are talking about OBD2 cables, and I was talking more about OBD2 dongles. So far, the Red Mongoose Cable and an authentic Tactrix 2.0 device have always worked for me. I've also used a VXDiag VCX Nano, which worked well for most tasks. I didn't try anything ABS-related with it, as I was unaware of the ABS/OBD2 challenges at the time, but I think I accidentally bought a knock-off version because it seems to have died like the two Tactrix devices I had.

What seems to happen is that these knock-off devices lack internal components like resistors that meet the specifications of a Mongoose cable. When it comes to the specific nature of how Toyota coded the ABS process, these devices can't handle it, and Techstream can't complete its tasks. Some cables won't even let you start the ABS process due to their inadequacy.

The good news is that I've developed my own OBD2 dongle with a custom PCB board. It features WiFi, Bluetooth, a USB-C port, and an SD card slot. It has its own web interface for reading values, checking error codes, and clearing them. Once I finish the necessary coding, it will work with Techstream, and I'm confident it will handle the ABS bleed process thanks to its robust hardware. I just need to get it to work with Techstream via Bluetooth or WiFi. I can easily make more, and the cost would be less than the OBD2 device I currently recommend. However, I don't have the time to finish all the coding right now, so I can't offer it to resolve your issue at this moment.

but.. i did write a blog article which will help you, if you end up getting one of the devices I want and don't have, please let me know how it works out for you!

https://black.jmyntrn.com/2024/06/23/techstream-obd2-device-thoughts/?utm_source=PriusChat&utm_medium=weblinkt&utm_campaign=commentlinkJune

 

Just want to update on my previous comment in case someone is experiencing the same issue I had with ABS stroke simulator bleeding.

After reading through black_jmyntrn’s comments. I went ahead and bought one of the VCI cable he suggested (DLC3) on AliExpress. Arrived yesterday and was able to complete the ABS bleeding procedure with no problem. So it appears to that the communication error was due to inadequate VCI cable/scanning tool. If anyone has the same issue I had, I recommend checking black_jmyntrn’s post and get the DLC3 cable. This cable seems to be a good cable as it never lost connection with the car during bleeding.

@black_jmyntrn, thanks for taking the time to share your thoughts here. Your help is much appreciated! I am glad and relieved that this issue is resolved. Thank you.

 

Ayeeeeeeee!!!!!!

You know, after the last few days attempting to swap a JDM motor into my 2008 i successfully...

YOUR WORDS JUST not only brought a smile to my face out of contentment that I was able to help someone and they found value from my blog page!

It's worse like yours that actually just gave me a boost in energy and excitement to finish this car and it's the reason why I do all of this stuff I just want to help folks get the information they need get the parts and accessories they need and be happy is all I ever wanted so many thanks again!

 

Well, After I replaced the booster, I remember also experiencing the same issue. I had to repeat the issue, making sure when to click the next or other button... and after several tries, finally it completed. Just looking at this conversation, may be my cable was one of those cheap ones, but at least I was able to complete the process among other stuff like clearing DTCs, programming new keyfobs, or programing new tire sensors. Only on the bleeding tool I struggled.

 

what I've realized is its the knockoff/cheap cables that give the headaches... although the red mongoose I have is a knock off, its been the most reliable cable to date for me.

 

I recently did brake booster replacement and after testing 2 cables all failed to finish bleeding procedure so I ended up using Autel.
So I did order the red moongoose clone and test it and I can vouche it works.

 

NICE! Which version did you use?

 

JLR SDD V160 the red one but I think the only diffrence might be the software included.

 

my mistake, to clarify, which version of Techstream did you use?

 

Im using Techstream 12 in windows xp thrue virtual machine. I think the latest is 14 that still have the Utility option. When I tryed 18 it use a patcher and its not fully activated as the older version and you dont have the Utility tab that have option like abs bleeding.

 

Interesting!! Win 11 running the VM? The last time I did a bleed now, I cant recall the version... I have 18 and fully activated just need to reinstall on new system through a ghost image is what I do. But... I seem to recall running in Win 10 v18 is when I was abs successful and after trying to set TPS Sensors on my 2017 Prime(I know separate from ABS) its not the same enter IDs like on the Gen 3. That said, now you have me curious to go back and spend some time seeing which version works best across the board. Now I have a Gen 2 and I'm thinking because v18 I cant complete linear calibration... hmmm.