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Suddenly Loud valve noise and poor mpg and power

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by stealthvw, Jan 12, 2014.

  1. stealthvw

    stealthvw Junior Member

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    I have a 2006 with 95k miles. Two weeks ago, tapping sound started that seems like lifter gap. It is very loud at idle. Also, the hybrid battery is now trending to just a few blue bars, often as low as one or two. I rarely ever saw this in the past. The vehicle has poor acceleration, the ice will rev high when I try to accelerate but no power. No codes are set. Mpg is way down to maybe 25 on average. It seems as if the hybrid battery charging logic is different in that it doesn't try to charge the battery as much and is willing to run the battery down.

    Today:
    I changed oil and filter 5w30 Mobil 1.
    Inspected VVTi screen it was clean.
    Replaced plugs with ngk iridium, the old ones looked good.
    The coils looked good. I could not find a way to check them functionally.

    No real change.

    Possible clue: I notice that the valve noise is a bit quieter when the engine is on but not charging the hybrid battery as when it is making heat. The noise is worse at idle and low speed.

    On highway, no passing power, system seems to not try enough to charge the battery and it gets to 1 or2 purple bars.

    Any experience and advice would help.

    I really don't to take to dealer.
     
  2. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    What was the oil level before you changed the oil?
     
  3. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I too have this problem with my 06, idling really loud at low rpm. Also my 06 burns oil, about 1 qt every 2-3000 miles. However I don't have hybrid battery issues, mine always charges up to the green level, rarely reaches purple.

    On your car, the reason you don't have power is because the hybrid battery charge is low. It's not providing power to the electric motor to help you accelerate, you are mainly using the ICE engine to drive.

    I would first check your 12v battery and make sure it has proper voltage. That can cause many unexplained problems.
     
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  4. GrumpyCabbie

    GrumpyCabbie Senior Member

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    Check the 12v first. If it's the original, then it has done well to last this long. The 12v is also a relatively cheap fix. Otherwise it could be the HV battery (expensive, but not as expensive as people worry).
     
  5. stealthvw

    stealthvw Junior Member

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    I check the oil level regularly to keep it just below the full mark. I don't know how much I add in total between oil changes. I will check the 12 volt battery in the next day or two using the procedures I see here and a voltmeter. I changed the 12v 3 years ago.
     
  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Since the OP complained of an unusual sound that appears to be related to excessive valve clearance, then the obvious thing to do would be to remove the engine valve cover and measure valve clearance. If the OP wants to do that, I suggest he subscribe to techinfo.toyota.com to determine the exact procedure and the valve clearance specs.

    I did that procedure on the 2001 several years ago and it is not too hard to do the measurements. You have to rotate the crankshaft by hand as you perform the measurements.

    The hard part would be if you decide you actually need to change the clearances, which require removing the camshafts and replacing the bucket "lifters" which define the clearances.

    You'll need Toyota black FIPG sealant and a new valve cover gasket when reassembling.

    While the valve cover is off, the valve train can be inspected closely. You might also replace the PCV valve on the valve cover while you are at it.
     
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  7. Britprius

    Britprius Senior Member

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    Given the loss of power and the sudden onset of the noise suggest something more fundamental than just tappet (lifter) noise. Loose tappets do not usually greatly affect performance.
    We are shooting somewhat in the dark. This could be an engine problem such as a broken valve spring, but why would this affect the HV battery state of charge? Unless the battery is worked hard to compensate for the lack of engine power, but battery/transmission problems may also produce the lack of performance.

    John (Britprius)
     
  8. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    well he's only at 95k miles, even if the HV battery would be the issue and hopefully it is, he's covered under the emissions warranty.
     
  9. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Yes, maybe a camshaft lobe or a bucket spacer has fractured, so that a valve or two is not opening. That would have a big impact on engine power. The engine valve cover would need to be removed to determine whether this is the case.
     
  10. stealthvw

    stealthvw Junior Member

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    I did the battery check. In ACC mode I got 12.2 volts. Under load, pushing the power button again, I got 11.2 . Lights on I got 10.9. with the car and ready mode it was up to 14.4. Engine on stayed at 14.4.

    A big clue is that while I sat there with the vehicle at idle charging the hybrid battery the loud clicking sound is heard. Once the battery was mostly charged, the power flow from the engine to the battery stopped and the loud tapping stopped. The engine kept running to make heat but only made normal rattling. I took a 30 second video. As it is repeatable. I will try to post it.

    I also used a mechanic stethoscope with a rod. The sound sound like the head and is in time with the other valve rattle.
     
  11. dorunron

    dorunron Senior Member

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    If you do tear it down and repair, please post what the bad part was you found. Sounds like you have it narrowed down to the top end as far as the noise in concerned.

    On a different tune, your 12 volt is getting pretty weak. You will need one of those before long also.

    Best of luck to you. Hope you can get it fixed cheap. One question, what kind of oil has the engine been fed during it's life time? I understand you have stayed on top of it as far as oil changes. Sorry to hear the problem, don't see this very often here on this board IIRC.
     
  12. Rich12

    Rich12 Member

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    Mines got a similar problem; 07 @ 115k. MPGs ok and no codes. No CEL. Rough as ball bearings on idle; not noticeable at speed/accel. Is it ok to drive as is? Will the engine be damaged?
     
  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    It is not OK. You need to have the unusual noise investigated. Further damage may result to the engine.

    A mechanical issue with the engine may not produce a DTC.
     
  14. stealthvw

    stealthvw Junior Member

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    I brought it to my local Toyota dealer. The good news is that they did some hybrid system checks and believe it is working fine. The bad news is that they believe the #3 rod bearing is damaged and knocking. They they pulled each coil to isolate the noisy cylinder. The poor performance they believe is due to the knock sensor retarding the timing. The hybid system then tries to make up the missing power.

    They offered to replace the engine with a used one for $3,200 with one year warranty. I can find local used engines for about $400. That is so cheap I consider it "buy four ignition coils and get an engine for free". I am consider doing the drop and swap my self.
     
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  15. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Yes, there isn't much demand for used Prius engines because they rarely fail, so the pricing is extremely attractive. Please make sure that you are getting an engine from a 2006-2009 Prius and not one from another Toyota using a 1.5 liter engine, such as Echo, Yaris, Corolla, etc.
     
  16. Former Member 68813

    Former Member 68813 Senior Member

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    It's a shame to lose the engine under 100,000 miles. Did you buy it new or used?
     
  17. stealthvw

    stealthvw Junior Member

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    Update. A week ago confirmed that the sound was at 1/2 the rpm. It was about 600 beats per minute when the engine was at 1200 rpm. Seemed like a valve issue, so I removed the valve cover and measured the valve clearance. All valves were in spec though tended to be near the loose end of the range. Everything looked good and oiled with no excessive wear.

    So my 17 year old son and I pulled the engine and replaced it with a used one with similar miles. It took about 16 hours. It was much more complex than other cars I had done due to the hoses and wires packed tightly.

    The car runs great. Better than ever. Mpg up, battery charging to green, very powerful. I used torque app to monitor the engine before and after. It seems that the knock sensor was retarding the timing on the noisy old engine ( -5 to +5). The new engine is at 10 to 17 degrees in normal operation.

    I suspect that the hybrid controller was not able to manage the performance when the engine did not produce the expected power due to aggressive retardation of the timing by the rod-knock and knock sensor. It often made sounds as if the transmission were slipping as the rpm was high but no power was going to the wheels.

    I will tear down the engine and find the source of the knock and post the findings.
     
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  18. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    My 2006 is similar to what you had experienced with the old engine. It seems to run ok but at highway speeds, it just seems like it doesn't have much power. It has a loud knocking sound at idle. This past weekend I drove to Las Vegas, a 270 mile trip. Normally I can get over 50mpg going there but this time around I was lucky to get above 40. Many of the hills I climbed, the engine seemed to struggle and the mileage on the mfd showed 15mpg when I was climbing. Many times when I traveled 70mph the car would show mpg in the 20s and 30s. I can't remember ever seeing that on my 2008 going the same route. Sounds like I'm going to need an engine to solve the problem.
     
  19. acowen

    acowen New Member

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    Sounds like my car, how much did they charge you for a diagnosis?
     
  20. stealthvw

    stealthvw Junior Member

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    Sounds like my car, how much did they charge you for a diagnosis?[/QUOTE]

    The dealer did not charge me for the diagnosis. I believe they would have it it would have been a simple repair. Given the huge cost of an engine swap, I think the service manager just let it go. Very cool on their part.