Sudden loss of power, Red Triangle, Won't Start + P3190

This loss of power would probably be a bad fuel pump (wild guess). Your engine actually never started, it's your hv battery turning your engine over.

 

Try putting another 2 gallons in and then do a reset of the 12v battery again. I think it's either an injector issue or a bad fuel pump.

To run down this problem, you'll need to get a code reader that can read all the prius codes and sub codes

 

I had a PM conversation recently with another member about P3190.

He felt that he was good and didn’t run out of gas. Checked the Tripp meter and was surprised at the distance traveled, the tried to fill it with gas again and was able to fit in something like 7 gallons.

My guess is the bladder and the “guess gauge” incorrectly reporting the true state of affairs.

Add some more gas to the tank. Hope you didn’t get the HV battery too low though. Gen2’s aren’t good at protecting the battery.

 

5 gallons should be enough if it's an out of fuel issue. That's why I suggested 2 more gallons, 3 gallons many times won't register on the prius.

Very uncharacteristic for a prius to have problems before 200k miles

 

Clean the MAF sensor and throttle body before you try to restart it again. Every time you disconnect the 12 Volt battery it will reset the HV Battery SOC to 60% (upper blue). This does not mean the battery is at 60%, it means the ecu doesn't know where it is. Very likely that the loss of engine power and coasting on the battery followed by numerous failed attempts to start the ICE have run your hybrid battery very low. Once you run your pack down all the way it becomes a very big PITA to get it going again.

 

Recently while driving the city streets a bunch of lights appeared on the dash, didn't pull over right away and after a block or so noticed that my HV battery was drained and or draining quickly (was down to or near the last bar) so I pulled over and Torque audibly offered up P3193 (gas gauge showed 6 pips, wtfo).

After finding the code online, a feeling of doom was upon me (didn't make sense when I had 6 pips). Not wanting to have the vehicle towed I went in search of gas, came back with a couple of gallons and was able to start it again.. afterwards I put another 7.5 gallons in the tank (quit filling once the pump stopped), for a total of 9.5+ gallons.

Found it interesting that torque reported the stored code one more time later on.

Still thinking about setting up a gas level warning within Torque, not sure if that would be possible or even accurate.

 

Yes adding gas solved the problem and I see that @SFO chimed in.

Thanks for the support .

 

Did you inspect/clean the MAF sensor and intake? There is a very good chance that's the issue.

 

Here's how this works, I've seen it many many times.

As you drive the car and the MAF and intake slowly get dirty it causes the fuel trim to change in the car. Basically the computer starts compensating for the dirty sensors on the front end using the air fuel ratio sensor on the back end (the upstream oxygen sensor). Once you disconnect the 12 volt battery all of those trim compensations go away and the ecu starts over fresh. If your intake and MAF are dirty enough (which results in inaccurate measurements) the ecu will think no air is entering and it therefore will not add any fuel.

Almost every car that I've ever changed a 12 Volt battery on (or disconnected for any reason) ran like crap when it was restarted. In some cases the car will just refuse to start at all (like in your case). To eliminate this problem we have a policy that every car that comes in gets a thorough intake and MAF cleaning. Solved all the problems.

 

This takes 5 minutes, with a can of throttle body cleaner. You'll need a 10mm socket to loosen a clamp, and that's it. Spray throttle body cleaner and wipe throttle body clean.

There are tons of videos on this

 

Be sure to use something like this when cleaning the MAF, it has been said that the manifold throttle body cleaner leaves behind an oil/lube residue that could contaminate the MAF sensor.

CRC MAF & Throttle Body Single-Use Twin Pack, 1 Kit - Walmart.com

Removing the MAF requires a small/short phillips head screwdriver. I ended up grabbing a ratcheting setup at Harbour Freight (< $4). Be careful with the screws when removing, and I doubt there is a need to torque them upon reassembly.

8 Piece Right Angle Screwdriver

I would removing the MAF before cleaning the throttle body or intake/butterfly (less chance for contamination), then replace the cleaned MAF sensor afterwards. Or just clean the MAF and do the TB and intake at a later time.

Question: Is that "mid-range code reader" compatible with Toyota Hybrids?

 

Well just think if you would've gone to the dealer, it would be double that charge