Stuck slide pin rear disk brakes Aus model

Maybe do a search for "bolt extractor". You first drill a hole down the centre of the pin. Then with the appropriate bolt extractor bit, drill into that hole. It has aggressive/tapered threads, going in the reverse direction.

Normally they're used to extract threaded bolts, so if-and-when they "grab", the bolt remnant starts screwing itself out. With a non-threaded pin there won't be this positive extracting action, but maybe it will still work.

 

As I read it, the problem is the pin will not slide out of the caliper--it's frozen in place, no threads in play here.

You may have to "bite the bullet" and remove the caliper from the hydraulic line and bring it to a bench. And use true penetrating oil. Worst case you break the casting and have to buy a new one.

 

Gen 2 Pius with rear disc brakes can have two different types of rear calibers.

Do you have this style:

This actually is not good video on how to do the job but I just put it here to show the caliber.

If I did understand correctly and you have those and the sliding pin is shear of leaving the threaded part in caliber bracket and sliding pin part in the caliber? You should be able to get the pin part out of the caliber by just putting penetrating oil into it (put it under the dust boot) and just turning the pin back and forth until it spins freely. I just keep the caliber in the place while spinning the pin. Then when getting it out of caliber pull don’t hit it with hammer. If you had to hammer it file the end back to thin otherwise it won’t go through.
Threaded part is easy to deal with as you can just take the caliber bracket of the car (while leaving the caliber on the car) and deal with it on the table.

 

I hope my English is not too bad for understanding it:
I think, I've the same problem with my European Gen2. I've tried WD-40, a penetrating oil, heat (air blower with ~500 °C) and pure force by hammer.
I've even tried to change inner and outer brake pads (they have very uneven wear) and pressed the brake pedal with full force. But it only bends the whole brake instead of loosening the pin.
I don't want to remove the hose, because I'm not able to refill the brake fluid without letting air in. So I think, I will have to go to a garage.
Why is the second pin not like the first pin (like a bolt)?!

 

If all else fails, I'm still thinking: drill into it (centre punch carefully first), maybe even drill-and-tap. Then you can screw something into it, have something to pull on.

Or: drill through the caliper from the outside, beyond the bottom of the pin's cavity. Then put in a straight-shank, flat-ended punch, and drift the pin out. Then seal the hole with a short bit of round bar, with JB-Weld or similar bonding agent, just to seal it.

(I could be completely misunderstanding the pin configuration, btw.)

 

It may be more economical to purchase a new caliper and pins and install them. But you're right, you may need special tools and knowledge to bleed the system. The Mini VCI available in this country for less than US$20 works for that. An inexpensive bleeder kit would also be needed.

I don't have rear discs, but there may be a way to pressurize the system with the foot pedal to effectively bleed one cylinder. I think that would work on the front discs on my North American model, but I know the rears are different on mine.

 

Do you indeed have the caliper shown in that video, where the pins are immovably threaded into the caliper bracket, and the caliper slides on the pins? (As contrasted to the style we have in the US, where the pins are movable in the bracket, and immovably attached to the caliper with bolts?)

So do I understand that the pins have been twisted hard enough to break off the threaded portion (immovably threaded into the caliper bracket)?

It seems that if you could accomplish that with both pins, it should already be possible to separate the caliper from the bracket—whether or not you disconnect the hose. (If leaving the hose attached, just use some wire to support the caliper so it doesn't hang by the hose.) Then you'd have two things:

1. A caliper bracket with two broken-off, threaded pin ends stuck in it. Simple enough: take out the bolts holding the bracket to the axle, throw the bracket away, and buy a new one with your new pins. Life's too short to fuss with extraction when it's that easy to throw the problem away.

2. A caliper with two broken-off pins stuck in it. Here, for some reason, I'm having trouble visualizing the problem. Is it not possible to apply a puller with the center screw on the broken-off pin ends (the ends normally facing the bracket) and push them out that way?

-Chap

 

If you have put oil into it you should be able to get it spinning in the caliber. When it’s spinning pull it out from caliber with locking pliers or something. Just pull it out to the correct side. If you can’t get it out from caliber by pulling hit it with hammer. You can hammer the pin to get it moving even when just holding the caliber in hand (with hydraulic line still connected). But before the pin is too far in file the end that you hit. Then just pull it out with pliers.

 

I'll give this idea my last try. I've seen at pictures of the pin, that it has a inner hexagonal drive for round about 8 mm hey wrench/key. So I'll drill a 10 mm hole. Then I should be able to apply a torque to the pin with the hex key, which should break the rust and loosen the pin. Then I should be able to remove the pin - at least by hammering with something through the drilled hole. When I'm successful, I can make a 12 mm thread and close it with a short bolt.

 

Yeah it's just to keep the dirt out.

 

I've got a question for Rennie and MickyMatter.

You guys both have a broken slide pins, so I'm wondering if this is a somewhat common issue when servicing the rear brakes. Did it occur while trying to pivot the caliper body after removing the other slide pin as shown in the video (linked above by Valde3)? If not that, then what caused it to break.

I'm wondering this because I'm going to be changing my back pads (2005 Prius) sometime in the next few weeks. I recently changed the front pads (for the first time at about 280,000 km!), and that was a nice easy job. I had already watched the youtube video that Valde3 linked above and it seemed very straight forward. But now I'm wondering what problems I may encounter. Did the "blind" slide pin seize when you tried to rotate the caliper body?

 

Thanks Rennie.

I haven't touched mine yet. I just had a cursory look last time I rotated the tyres. The thing that stood out to my was that it appeared that only one of the two slide pins had the head accessible (looks to be a 14mm bolt same as the fronts). That's why I watched the video and learnt that you can rotate it to changed the pads etc without even touching the other slide pin.

I haven't looked at it in any detail yet, but from what you've said above that the other "blind" pin (the one you're replacing) has a recessed hex (Allen key) drive on the non threaded end. Is that correct?

I'm gonna try changing the pads without even touching that side (as per the video), but if anything is seized it will be handy to know what I need to move that other pin.

Yeah, just thinking about this, I know that the fact that I could only see one (apparently) accessible pin/bolt really confused me until I watched the video. I can quite easily imagine someone not realizing that there is a recessed hex drive there (and perhaps not even realizing that it can be rotated out of the way without removing that pin) and then getting frustrated and trying to pry or bash it free.

 

I was successful, but it wasn't as easy as I expected it.
After removing the brake I was able to drill a 10,3 mm hole (diameter for the later thread). But I wasn't able to loosen the pin, while holding the parts in my hand. So i fixed them again to the car and used the allen key with something longer to be able to apply more torque. Now pushing as hard as I can break free the pin. I kept rotating counter clockwise (clockwise in the view of sitting besides the car and looking to it) to remove the pin out of the thread. With the other pin fixed, I didn't need to hold the parts and I could continue rotating the pin. But I had to use very much force and the "longer allen key". Applying more and more oil and keeping rotating removed the pin! (The use of a hammer did nothing.)
I removed the rust from the pin with a metal brush, a file and some sandpaper. And I cleaned it's bore with oil and a toothbrush, after I've drilled a 12 mm thread. I closed the drilled threadhole with a short bolt, so the pin can slide completely in it's bore.
The following assembling was as usual.