Hello.I have a o6 prius that starts and dies,after about 10-15 seconds.The hv and 12v batts are good. Also when car runs i cannot rev the engine. Ihave pulled P3190,poor eng power from pcm and POAOF,eng fail to start from hv module.I have reflashed pcm but same prob,Just wonderin if any of u seen same prob and could help lead in correct direction..THANKS....also i have maf,and ckp data on scan tool,and fuel cel is adequate.hope this is enough info here.
so.. it starts.. but then fails?... i wonder if it's your ignition coils.. when it does start does it sound fine.. or is it banging and clicking oddly? ignition coils won't throw error codes.. except for not creating enough electricity to keep the battery charged.. or accelerate at a decent rate. i had braking errors before it really failed.. low 12v problems (not battery but bus line voltage drop)... (only in corners too) more details please? video?... anything?.
No noises ,eng just turns off and triangle comes on and it runs off of hv power only.Code flowchart is not good at all.
If the engine doesn't run, it's the same as any other car whose engine doesn't run: check that fuel and air are getting to the engine, check that the throttle blade actually moves (a sticky throttle plate was a common problem on the Classic), check that there's a good spark. The service manual flowchart says: Check that there is fuel Check that the air intake, from the engine air filter onward, doesn't have any leaks and isn't blocked. I'd also check that the air filter isn't clogged. Check the fuel pressure Check that the Mass Air Flow Meter is producing sensible readings - the car computes how much fuel to inject based on the amount of air flowing in, so if this number is wrong, too much or too little fuel will be injected and the mixture may not be ignitable Check the coolant temperature sensor - the engine temperature is another factor in the fuel calculation Check the crankshaft position sensor - the fuel must be injected at the correct moment, so if this position sensor is reading the wrong value, it could be trying to ignite the air/fuel mixture before it's properly compressed or inject the fuel on the wrong stroke Check the camshaft position sensor - see above Inspect throttle control motor - if the throttle blade isn't being moved correctly, too little air may be drawn in to actually keep the engine rotating Inspect throttle position sensor - this checks that the motor did the job it was asked to do If all of the above checks out, replace the ECM. Note that because the engine is started at high (>1000) rpm, attempts to start the engine can sound like the engine running. In your case it's quite likely that the engine is not actually firing up at all.
1. Has this car been in an accident? 2. How much fuel is in the fuel tank? What does the fuel gauge read? Suggest that you ensure the tank has at least four gallons of fuel. 3. Just because the engine spins for 10-15 seconds, does not mean that the engine actually started. My guess is that MG1 is spinning the engine but the engine did not start. This is why DTC P0A0F "Engine Failed to Start" was logged by the hybrid vehicle ECU. This is also why the engine does not respond to accelerator pedal input. Depending upon the three-digit info code that accompanies P0A0F, the problem could be as simple as the crankshaft position sensor or the transmission input damper; or as painful as needing to replace the transaxle. The problem also might be with the engine or hybrid vehicle ECUs. If the car had been in a front-end accident then it is likely that a wiring harness problem is causing these symptoms.
Thanks to all who helped with this.OK new info,fact is the actual engine is only bieng turned over ..no combustion,due to no power to the fuel pump.Wiring diagram says it is the c/opn relay,however i do not see it listed iside the cover nor does it list the efim,ig2 relay??is it inside the j/b? again THANK YOU.
PatrickWong awesome THANK YOU 4 YOUR FEED BACK!! well i got to work on it again this a.m. and found my integrated relay and the connector wasnt fully engaged.Vehicle now runs normally.THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP.
You're welcome. You had previously raised a question about where IG2 and the circuit opening relays are located. It sounds like you figured out that those relays are not separate modules but rather are located within an integrated assembly. There are two such assemblies, labeled B and C, located in the upper right corner of the large relay/fuse box near the inverter (as you stand at the front bumper, looking at that box.) My question to you is, what is required to remove an integrated assembly from the relay/fuse box? Do you just pry it out, using a flat blade screwdriver; or is the process more involved than that? Also, did you figure out why the integrated assembly and the connector were not fully engaged? Had someone tampered with that previously; or was this due to accident damage?
