Some observations after doing my own oil change on the Prime

my dad built a pit in his garage. it was his home away from home.

 

Is it possible the washer was stuck on the oil pan? I've seen this before on Prius, and had to use a hammer and flat screwdriver to bust it loose. But, you would have noticed this when you replaced the bolt with the new washer, yes?

 

Did you have to remove any of the aerodynamic panels on the bottom? That's what I'm worried about because I hate trying to remove those little button clips that hold them up.

I've never EVER heated up an engine for an oil change. In fact, I let them cool to avoid the possibility of getting hot oil on my hands. I just have a little patience in waiting for the oil to drain. I've also always found ramps to be way more trouble than they're worth. A floor jack and jack stands take up way less space and take no more time to use.

I think it would be better to change the filter early and leave the oil than the other way around. What you're trying to do is account for the possibility of a higher level of particulates in a brand new engine, and that's what the filter removes until it gets full of them. A new filter will clean dirty oil.

 

I found if u let it sit overnight and drain it cold u get an extra qt out. It amazes me that this much settles overnight. Is it all in the head/variable valve train? I haven't done a hot oil change since I realized this

 

Would 2x10 squares (or similar) just ahead of the ramps help, not sure.

Also, @FuelMiser probably right: the Toyo washer has some sorta coating, and it tends to glue onto the oil pan. His technique is the way to go. Back out the bolt a turn or two, then tap the washer loose with screwdriver and hammer. Then continue removing the bolt, with the washer. There's probably two washers on there now.

 

So how clean was the oil that you drained from the car? And a question: Does anyone know if the free oil change provided by Toyota includes synthetic oil?

 

Yes, the Primes use synthetic oil.

 

My dealer mechanic rep told me last week, when describing the free visits over the next two years, how they now only use synth 0W20 in most all the new cars past 2015. I mentioned that when the time comes (3K miles) for the first change and filter, that I would bring in my own MobilOne 0W20 5-qt jug if there was any possibility that 5W20 might find it's way into my car instead, if only by accident. He stared at me and told me that no way does that happen anymore (implying it had). I really hope he was right.

 

I'm sceptical that the dealer uses the oil that I supply to them rather than using the vat oil that's readily available.

 

From what I've read here and experienced, oil changes for the Prime are every 10k miles. There have been a few that have had it done at 5k. There has been a lot of debate on when to do oil changes if you use mostly EV.

 

I buy bulk Toyota 0W20 synth. Guess it comes from a "vat". Never any problems, very clean, basically the same stuff you can get bottled.

Ed the fox may be along shortly, to explain otherwise.

 

I've wondered about that. I don't have any proof, of course. For many years I always supplied my own store-bought oil. Now I've decided to just let the dealer put in whatever they use. You gotta hope they know it requires 0W-20... ! I'll tell the service writer to specify that on the paperwork.

 

Oh, I know. Just want to get the "metal shavings and gunk" out of the filter on a new engine. Following that, it will be every 10K. Just an old school thing to do with every new car. Might not be needed early like that, but since they're changing it for free and giving me oil and a filter, I figure why not? Can't hurt and just might help.

 

Agree with @Mendel Leisk above.

I'd bet you could get a couple of short scrap 2x8 blocks and cut them into a "pre-ramp" cheat to get the front end coming up sooner. You might need to make them up to 12" long to get it moving up sooner so as not to contact your current ramps. I've been using the plastic Davric Magnum 16000 ramps on my 2010 Prius with good clearance. Can't test on my ordered 2017 until it arrives. I also use them with my 4Runner and our low Camry hybrid. Nice no skid ramps. They are 36" long and the incline bevel is 22" of the 36".

I just found a video that shows the concept I'm referring to but he does it differently than I would, but you get the idea.

 

The measured viscosity of 0w20 oil, even hot, is far from that of water.

As to cold vs hot changes, I preferred doing hot on the belief that the particles haven't had time to settle onto the bottom of the pan and stay there during the drain.

 

BTW, when shopping for oil, you might try your Toyota dealer. Mine charged $3.95 per quart. They didn't have the 5 quart jugs, but I was happy to get 5 quarts of Toyota 0W20 for $20. Filter was cheaper than Amazon, too.

 

That's a great price. I just returned from the nearest dealer parts dept, and their price is $7.19 per Qt! (0W-20) They don't sell the big jugs, or the "bulk" oil that Mendel buys.

I'm curious, I wonder who makes the "Toyota brand oil" in the mystery black bottle...? And what brand of oil is in the big "vats" that the service mechanics draw from? One dealer told me that they just order bulk oil from the lowest bidder each month. He didn't know what company supplies it. Whatever it is, I'm sure it's Ok.

(Walmart has the best price on Mobil 1, jug or individual bottles. It's cheaper than the $7.19 the parts dept is asking for that "mystery oil.")