Scangauge

Did you have the car on 'ready' mode?

 

Then, you need to wait for more experienced folks to respond

 

Why don't you contact ScanGage directly?

 

There are two sides to the OBD connector. One side is in the cabin but the other is on the other side of the mounting. It sounds as if a 'ham fisted' technician reached into the back side of the connector and stressed or broke the inside connection. Less likely, they may have pulled on the wiring hard enough to disconnect it from the other socket.

IMHO, the oil change shop probably did it, which is also means I wouldn't do any more business with them. I'm afraid you'll have to ask your local Toyota shop to diagnose and fix the problem.

There is one improbably failure mode ... the oil shop scanner broke or destroyed the connector. Not likely, it can not be ruled out. Again, the Toyota shop can fix it.

GOOD LUCK but it sounds likely to be a $200 problem.

Bob Wilson

 

The red flag is waving. Why don't they want anything plugged into the OBDII? The ScanGauge is only a reader that can't damage anything. In NJ the car won't pass inspection if the inspection station can't communicate with the car.

Sounds like it is time to find someone cheaper to change your oil.

 

Hi. I'm just a user, no expert. But I've tried to decypher a few parts of the TechRef.
If the OBD plug has not been disabled by some sort of reprogramming an ECU (which doesn't seem likely to me because of the nature of a bus system) and if the reason is an electrically broken circuit, the few things I've found out are as follows:
- "There may be an open circuit in the CAN bus main line and/or the DLC sub bus line when the resistance between terminals 6 (CANH) and 14 (CANL) of the DLC3 is 69 Ohm or more. (Power switch off)"
(They are writing as well, that if this resistance is below 54 Ohm, there may be a short circuit in the CAN bus lines, but I hardly believe that this can be the case if the car is operating normally.)
- DLC3 is the name of the connector used for Scangauge (Data Link Connector 3). As far as I can see in the TechRef, its Can H and Can L wires are routed to pin 21 and pin 10 respectively of Junction Connector J15, alternatively called J/C1, which seems to be located at the far left in the dashboard. Since this Connector J15 connects several important ECUs to the bus, the car probably would stop functioning correctly if an open circuit beyond Connector J15 would occur, so those pins 21 and 10 should be the last possible disconnected location. (Again: I'm no expert, just citing the Specs.)
J15 connector: two rows of eleven pins each, wire harness view shows them right to left if the straight side of the housing is down, pin 11-1 top, pin 22-12 bottom. For better orientation:
Terminals <> Connects to
J15-6 (CANL) <> J/C2 (CANL)
J15-17 (CANH) <> J/C2 (CANH)
J15-7 (CANL) <> Power Steering ECU (CANL)
J15-18 (CANH) <> Power Steering ECU (CANH)
J15-8 (CANL) <> Battery ECU (CANL)
J15-19 (CANH) <> Battery ECU (CANH)
J15-9 (CANL) <> Steering Sensor (CANL)
J15-20 (CANH) <> Steering Sensor (CANH)
J15-10 (CANL) <> DLC3 (CANL) !
J15-21 (CANH) <> DLC3 (CANH) !
J15-11 (CANL) <> Skid Control ECU (CANL)
J15-22 (CANH) <> Skid Control ECU (CANH)
(But: Right Hand Drive version uses different terminals...)
Be careful. There are more 22 pin connectors than J15.
I hope that this can be of some help.
B)

 

Connector J15 is not at the right side of the car where the glove box is, but at the FAR LEFT side, according to the TechRef pictures. There is a similar connector ar the far right side, but that is not the one where the wires of DLC3 are connected to.
B)