Rustproofing

You shouldn't need rust proofing. Cars are built better today than they were 50 years ago and, even back then, rust proofing wasn't recommended. Rust proofing used to be a bad idea because it could plug up drain holes and actually promote rust. And some rust proofing and undercoating did nothing but add weight to the car. The primary reason for rust proofing a car is to improve the dealer's profits. It sounds like your dealer is giving you some honest information. That's uncommon.

 

Rustproofing:

Don't.

 

I worked in the aircraft industry for 30 years. Rustproofing is a science that takes a full knowledge of the vehicle's structure and all of its mechanical functions.

I don't see how dealers or even service operators can do it right in 2-3 hours.

I do all of my cars and have done so for 45 years. I have never has a penetration in any car or truck body of any vechicle that I've owned. I have my vehicles for 10-15 years.

I don't recommend dealer applied rustproofing or aftermarket suppliers. I wouldn't have it done, if it was not by myself and with the experience that I've had in the aircraft industry.

It took me all of two weeks working 3-4 hours at a time to get it done right with my "v." No dealer can afford to take that much time and attention to detail and make money.

 

Boeshield, yes. Tarry goop, no.

 

Most of the parts close to the wheels and lots of undercarriage covers are plastic.

 

I can remember my original '69 Mustang. There wer no wheel well liners. The inside of the wheel well was the metal top of the fender.

Boeshield is too thin for car rustproofing. It's OK for aircraft.

Undercoating is NOT rustproofing. It should be applied only after a week when the coating of rustproofing has had time to skin over.

The interior of bottom door wells, fender wells, quarter panel wells, and rear hatch wells are the best candidates for rustproofing along with the box rails in the floor pan.

Noxudol Rust Protection Cavity Wax

Four spray wand aerosol spray cans of NOXUDOL "cavity wax" sprayed in through the holes at or near the bottom of the cavities that I mentioned would go a long way to prevent rust penetration from inside the cavities in climes where a lot of road salt is used.

Actually, the careful do it yourself owner can do better than the professionals.

 

From reading discussions made by Canadians on rustproofing, there is a need to coat the brake lines to prevent them from rusting.

 

YMMV, but in my experience, Boeshield works very well on interior surfaces of what were designed as (or can be created as) enclosed volumes, less so on underside/exterior surfaces where direct impact from environment is involved, and where a regular power wash with clean water is all that's necessary.

 

While I was adjusting the steering linkages to center my new silver carbon steering wheel, I noticed the white powder over several upright linkages which I believe it's the corrosion from salt water vapor (perhaps while shipping over the ocean). It can be wiped off easily, so I just used the 3M green pad to remove them then wiped it clean with clean rag. I then coated the parts with the high heat clear coat spray paint.

 

Tanasit,

I'd get a spray can of LPS3 with a red straw extension on it. The, I'd spray every bolt on the chassis and the running gear, including the brake bleed screws and brake line fittings.

The thick waxy film will eventually "creep" into the spaces between the screws and tapped holes to preven corrosion from water vapor and salt form getting in.

I do a complete rustproofing job on all of my cars. Soaking the bolts with a rustproofing film will pay great dividens years from now, when you have to remove the bolts to service the car.

 

Mike,

I already did that with similar product but I only did all the bolts and the brake bleed screws. As for the rubber parts like the joints boots, rubber hosts, door gaskets, etc. I soaked them with Armor-all every few months. At one time (with the other car) I even removed the tires and soaked the inside with the rubber treatment solution. I don't know if I want to rust proof the door though. I am trying to figure out if it is possible to combine the trunk switch with the gas lift that has the remote activation switch to partially or fully open the trunk from the inside.

 

Tanasit,

No drillilling or plastic plugs are needed. There's enough access holes in the end of the doors for the thin read plastic straws to access the doors. I used 3 of these cans form eBay;

Transtar Body-Tec Amber Rustproofing - 4423 | eBay

I did it in February. There is no smell now and no sticky feel. The most important areas are the areas of metal to metal contact in the body panels.

 

Mike,
I got the LPS3 and noticed that on the can it says, " Up to 2 years protection", so I assume that I have to repeat the treatment every 2 years?

 

Tnaasit,

Two years is related to direct outdoor exposure. In the cracks of the car or between the screw thrads, when the solvent evaporates, the remaining waxy coating will last for years longer, probably up to 10 years or more.

Boeshielld T9 is a lot lighter and will last about a year if left exposed to the weather. Internally, it will last a few years longer or more.

I know, because I have both on my 14 year old van as other rustproofing coatings.

 

I've been using the T9 to protect my air rifles for years and plus it has the lubrication property as well.
As for my bicycles and electric scooter moving parts, I use the Finish Line products with great results because they attract less dirts. The DRY Autolube works wonder for the wooden drawers! My flashlight gets regular treatment by DeoxIT which helps promote electrical flow. Lastly my brushless motors in the radio control models get lubed with super light weight bearing oil. I almost forgot the non-toxic pure silicone is best for the faucet gaskets or non metal to metal contacts. There are many home brewed grease for the spring and cylinder in the air gun, all of which has the moly paste ( Molybdenum disulfide = MoS2 ) as the main ingredient. As for the pellet lube, all top shooter shave their own secret formula.

 

I've used T9 for years on aircraft. Cars made of steel. A thicker waxy coating can be carried, since weight is less of a factor. I have found the thinner amber "interior" rustproofing to be the best. The original "Duro" brand Do-it-Yourself kits with 5 aerosol cans were excellent. I used two of my kits on my 1969 Mustang, lived on the Outer Banks of North Carolina and had NO rust issues.

I bought four cans of this rustproofing on eBay;

Transtar Body Tec Amber Rustproofing 4423 | eBay

I did my "V" in February. I sprayed all the interior cavities in the lower body and the floor pan. Two weeks later, I coated the floor pan with spray on 3M undercoating from WalMart (3 cans.)

The stuff is now completely dry and has no odor. I'm glad thst it is done.

My 14 year old Mazda MPV van with 250K on it still shows no rust.

Since it's your car, you can do better than the commercial outfits for less than $100.