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Running on elec vs gas

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Brodie, Oct 4, 2008.

  1. Brodie

    Brodie New Member

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    How come sometimes I can drive a long ways, hitting the accelerator relatively hard, all in electric mode, while other days I drive the same exact road after the same exact drive and the car insists on using the gas engine? Even if I stop and let the engine shut off? I've had this happen either way on days with similar temps, similar drives etc. It's like the Prius "feels like" using one mode over the other and it's kind of annoying when I know I can get down a certain street using all electric and the car won't do it.

    BTW I'm not really complaining about my fuel economy, my lifetime is 50.1 mpg at 7800 miles with no mods.
     
  2. donee

    donee New Member

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    Hi Brodie,

    It has to do with the state of charge (SOC) of the battery. If you have been using the battery allot prior to your reference road, its SOC will be low, and the car will accellerate with the engine easier. If the SOC is into the green, the car will hold onto to an electric accelleration longer. What the programing is doing is trying to keep the battery near 60 % SOC, which is within the highest blue bar on the MFD SOC indicator. By doing this, the Prius is maximising the battery life.
     
  3. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Active Member

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    As I often feel obligated to point out on these threads, the less you use the battery, the better. Charging and discharging the battery is an inherently inefficient process, so you should try to avoid doing either whenever you can. Obviously this is impossible to do all the time with the Prius, but if you view it as a "general philosophy," it will help your MPG.

    By the way, this is why "Pulse and Glide" is such an MPG-friendly driving style. You are mostly using the gas engine on the "Pulse" and not doing any charging or discharging of the battery on the "Glide."
     
  4. Rokeby

    Rokeby Member

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    +1 on donee's post.

    I will add that in my experience, the harder I push for max FE/MPGs and
    the closer I monitor the ICE/HV battery, the more I become aware of
    circumstances and situations where the generally expected behavior doesn't
    occur. I'm not talking about anything major, just a reading or an energy path
    that makes me wonder, "What the heck was that?" and its back to driving in
    the real world. If I had a CanView recording the right readouts, and the time
    to review the recordings, maybe I could figure it out, but I have neither -- I
    do have a ScanGauge.

    Here are a few things that I think contribute to "mystery" HSD responses:
    * The HV battery can be in a " very low" or "very high" 6th blue bar -- or any
    other "bar" for that matter -- and be at a value that is in the overlap with the next
    bar.(There is a cool graphic showing the bar overlaps, but I can't find it. Sorry.)
    * Sometimes the ICE runs just to keep the catalytic converter hot even though
    the engine coolant is above 154 deg. F.
    * Sometimes the CPU(s) run the ICE while conducting tests "in the
    background." As an example, IIRC, about every 100 miles the system tests
    the airspace between the metal gas tank and resin fuel bladder for evidence
    of gas vapors. If it finds some value, it reports a fuel system problem.
    [EDIT] * Somtimes the HV battery temps are too high or low

    I suspect that there are more of these special conditions that may cause ICE
    operation/small unexpected energy flows.

    My hope is that members with more experience, or are better read, or have
    better memories will come up and remind us what they are.
     
  5. Brodie

    Brodie New Member

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    Thanks everyone, the SOC explanation particularly makes sense. I'll have to pay attention to the battery SOC next time I feel like the car is doing something it shouldn't.

    I'm not into super-hypermiling, and while I do try to glide when I can, coast to stops, lift foot off accelerator for a second to shut off engine, slow down etc, I find driving in pulse and glide to be rather annoying and generally don't do it. Maybe I just need more practice, or maybe I'm already thinking about too many other things, or there are too many other drivers around.
     
  6. Rokeby

    Rokeby Member

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    Brodie,

    I think your first post is an excellent example of a situation that any attentive
    Prius driver might encounter, and then wonder about. Good job. No apologies
    needed.

    My first post wasn't meant to suggest that the conditions I noted are of
    concern to only hypermilers -- I consider myself a "very good miler," and don't
    have the inclination or dogged persistence to go "hyper." Rather, I meant that
    it is more than likely that it is the higher FE/MPG chasers that notice the HSD's
    subtle quirks and oddities and have a suspicion of what the CPU(s) is up to.
     
  7. Brodie

    Brodie New Member

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    Thanks Rokeby, I wasn't implying that, just mentioned it to say that I did know that driving on elec only wasn't the most efficient. It was good for you to mention it, though, because I'm sure there are other people who don't realize that.
     
  8. TonyPSchaefer

    TonyPSchaefer Your Friendly Moderator
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    Also keep in mind, Brodie that the temperatures are dropping this time of the year. If you have been sitting or gliding for a while, the cold air rushing through the grill could cause the all-aluminum engine to cool down. When that happens, the engine will run if only to warm itself up.
     
  9. Celtic Blue

    Celtic Blue New Member

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    I agree with Tony. The coolant is a bigger factor for me than SOC. The ICE wants to run with the battery well into the green at times. Having a lot of hills and such can require a bit different optimization. My 2.9 mile trip tonight was with a warm ICE, burned a bar off the battery and exceeded 100 mpg (wish I could see by how much). When the car is run the next time it will be cold, the ICE will want to run, so it will at least have something useful to do.
     
  10. cycledrum

    cycledrum PSOCSOASP

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    I have not found at all that my car accelerates with battery only during medium loads, definitely not under heavy acceleration. Under medium acceleration from a stop, the ICE kicks in it seems within a few seconds. But, I would need to really watch the energy monitor to be sure and give parameters.

    From a stop with engine reasonably warm, I can accelerate with battery only, but only with gentle acceleration, up to about 30 mph.

    If I accelerate more quickly, go up an incline anything over a very slow pace, that ICE is on for sure.

    Sometimes I've noticed cruising light throttle, even at 35 mph, the ICE in energy screen is shown to be off.

    My car started off brand new showing 53.x mpg average. This tank has been 56.x mpg. Better than I expected before purchase. Thought I would be in the forties.
     
  11. David Beale

    David Beale Senior Member

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    It's a lot more complicated than indicated above.

    Heating things:
    First, the ICE will run to keep the catalytic converter in a warm operational state.
    If your interior A/C system is calling for heat, and the engine coolant is below about 55 C, the ICE will run.

    Charge control:
    The ICE will run if the system senses the traction battery needs a bit more charge.
    The ICE will shut off if the system senses the traction battery is too fully charged (as long as the throttle is not aggressively depressed ;) ).

    Battery pampering:
    The ICE will run and the battery current drawn will be severely restricted if the battery temperature is sensed as too high. Charging will also be restricted, causing the ICE to run "too long" (as perceived by the driver), if the battery temp is too high.

    To influence all this (which is all we drivers can do):
    Keep the cabin interior at a comfortable temperature, so the battery can keep itself as cool as possible.
    Use gentle pressure on the throttle.
    Be aware, no matter how nice the temperature is inside the car, charging or discharging the battery generates a lot of heat. So if you just used or recharged the battery heavily, chances are you will not be able to do so again until it has a chance to cool off.
     
  12. Celtic Blue

    Celtic Blue New Member

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    It is too bad Toyota doesn't provide the relevant factors on the MFD. I would like to see the amps, the coolant temp, the battery temp, etc.

    Mild battery discharge rates haven't seemed to pose much trouble, but the irony is that fast regen (lots of steep slopes often with stops at the bottom) keeps ramping up the battery charge, with little opportunity to burn it off before regenning again. Then, to make matters worse, the coolant can get too cool on extended downhill runs...so that the ICE wants to kick in when you would prefer to rely more on the battery first to clear the accumulated regen charge.

    I admit I am developing some envy for those who get to run the Prius in flatter terrain on rural highways. The few times I've gotten to use real pulse & glide the mileage has been phenomenal. Hill P&G is a different critter entirely.

    I really wish there was a wider band in the throttle between regen-glide-electric. I hate having the most minor surface imperfections bounce me back and forth through all three although it feels like my foot has never moved. There is no way to be gentle enough with the present throttle.
     
  13. David Beale

    David Beale Senior Member

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    To reduce ICE cool-down install grill blocking. We're just exiting a warm spell, where I observed with both grills blocked, it's safe even up at ambients of 25C. In fact, it was 30C on the highway (100 km/hr) and coolant only got up to a peak of 97C. It stabilized at 93-95C (fan cycling).

    To monitor more data get a Scangauge II. You can watch battery voltage and current. You can also watch SOC displayed as a %, not just a bargraph.