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Replacement engine splash shield fasteners

Discussion in 'Gen 1 Prius Plug-in 2012-2015' started by jerrymildred, May 25, 2017.

  1. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Last week, while changing transaxle oil, I found that most of the plastic fasteners holding the splash shield in place were moderately to severely damaged. Also the six bolts were badly rusted and one broke and I had to drill and tap. I managed to get it reinstalled. Yesterday I ordered what I hope are all the fasteners and bolts. Yesterday I picked them up at the dealer, so I'll see this weekend if I have the right parts and enough of them. I'll let you know how it goes. Here's what I got:
    IMG_6037.JPG IMG_6039.JPG
     
    #1 jerrymildred, May 25, 2017
    Last edited: May 25, 2017
  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    $28.68 holy moly
     
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  3. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Actually, it was less than I expected. But more than run of the mill fasteners that don't quite fit.
     
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  4. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    +1.

    I got a bag of 20 fasteners on Amazon for $8. They are good to have around.
     
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  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I went kosher fastener replacement on a similar Honda underpanel, it was around $45 IIRC. They don't grow on trees lol.

    With your care and attention, I bet they'll be fine from here on. (y)

    Dealership serviced...?
     
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  6. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Yes, dealer serviced regularly by the original until he or she apparently traded it in last fall.

    The factory fasteners feel like they are much better quality than the generic ones. And they are specifically sized for those holes. So they should last a long time. The dealer mechanics must have been under quite a bit of time pressure to mess them up like they are.
     
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  7. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Wash them out with hot/soapy water when you have them off. Open/close them a bit too to make sure they're moving freely. And get yourself an arsenal of tools for gently removing them.I think they'll actually last longer, and be in good shape, if you frequently remove them, say by taking the whole panel off at every oil change.

    Also, with the (6?) machine bolts st leading edge, I soak those in oil with every removal. Use care when reinstalling: it's easier to over-tighten, snap off heads when they're oiled.

    Dealership mechanics are always racing the clock, which is bad news with these finicky fasteners.
     
  8. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Several of mine were either missing prongs or had them bent out and not in the hole. So I just got all new ones.

    Now that I have new ones, I may take the whole thing off at each oil change. I had it off this time for the transaxle oil.
     
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    I find it easiest to remove the whole panel by starting at the back and working my way formward; the front bolts removed last. Then you can just slip out where it laps under the front black-plastic underpanel. There's two fasteners that are bigger, both at the "flap".

    Here's my notes on the fastener part numbers. They vary from your invoice, but maybe they're out-of-date. They're based on info in the attachment:

    Underpanel pin part no's:
    Thicker metal-to-plastic pin 90467-09227 (2 required) (at trailing edge of "flap")
    Thinner metal-to-plastic pin 90467-07201 (10 required, or 12??: approx)
    Plastic-to-plastic pin 90467-07166 (2 required) (at flap) (not needed to remove, with whole panel removal, along side edge of "flap")

    I could dig a little further: I've got a few of the thinner metal-to-plastic type in the glove box, so I think there's an invoice here somewhere in my book. On our car the two "thicker metal-to-plastic" type, at rear of flap, have grey heads, and are noticeable bigger.
     

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  10. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Thanks, Mendel. I appreciate all your helpful comments and the ones from others, too. This is one of the best forums ever.

    I took my panel off the same way you did. Start at the back and save the bolts for last. Then just slide it toward my feet and off to the side. Reassemble the opposite way; bolts first but don't tighten them till you get several clips secured so the holes line up.

    I tried the part numbers you have, but the parts guy couldn't find them in the computer, so they have apparently been superseded or they are different in the U.S.

    At least one of the big ones at the rear had a gray head, but it was badly damaged. The new ones also have gray heads. One of the other old ones on my bench only has one prong. I don't know how it stayed in.

    I hope to install the new parts tomorrow. Today, while doing a Prolong charger recondition on wifey's '07 as well as changing her engine oil & filter and transaxle oil, I'm cleaning up the mess I made with the flooring project I just finished. And I still want to rotate her tires this weekend and do some other checks.
     
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  11. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    One of those jobs I am starting tonight myself:

    IMG_0409.JPG IMG_0411.JPG

    The bulbless discharging begins tomorrow(y)!
     
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  12. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    I bought one of those Milwaukee ratchets on father's day promotion this week. I'll be prepared to take off any panel with ease. No more messing around with manual ratchets to take off panels
     
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  13. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Yesterday I installed the new fasteners. Nice positive clicks as I pushed in the buttons. You'd almost think they were made for those holes. Oh. Right. They were made for those holes. (y)

    Then I got into some professional wrestling. Previous owner had bumped something and dinged the bottom of the front bumper cover. Maybe someday when I have about $300 that I don't know what else to do with, I'll get a replacement. While under the car, I noticed that two of the holes (one at each end of the piece in front of the splash shield ) had the bolt heads and washers ripped through them. I re-installed the bolts with stainless fender washers, but the one on the passenger side was about an inch and a half out of line with it's metallic partner. Finally got it with a drift punch in another nearby hole as my wife pulled on the drift punch and I horsed the bolt into its hole. Driver's side was easy.

    No more flapping in the breeze down there. Not that it was bad before, but now I'm as sure as I can be that it's nailed down solidly. ... I hope! :cautious:

    Gonna take a little drive tomorrow up to Ozella. Never been there and it'll be our first more or less real trip in the PiP since we got it other than a drive to Bradenton in 40 mph cross winds.
     
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  14. Mike Kilo

    Mike Kilo New Member

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    Can someone send a picture of closer look of these clips. Thanks. I wanna search them in local market in islamabad. Thanks
     
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  15. DogDaze

    DogDaze Member

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    I know an old post, but I found a clip missing under my wife's 2011 Prius.. and noticed that it's cracked on the passenger side near where the clip is missing.. I believe if I get some replacements that I can pin it back up so as to prevent the crack from getting worse. So thankful for the part numbers.

    Based on what I've seen, does this cover need to come down to change the oil? I only ask, because we've always had the car serviced at our dealership.. and I have never taken the cover down.. so was curious as to why it would be cracked like it is and clip missing.. I guess I'd they have to remove it to change the oil it would explain the crack and missing clips..

    Thanks in advance..
     
  16. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    Typically they bend down just the flap at the oil pan. I did that the first oil change, never again: its relatively thin/brittle plastic, doesn't bend easily. Well it does get easier, then eventually just breaks.
     
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  17. DogDaze

    DogDaze Member

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    Thanks for the info... that's what I was afraid of.. and probably what they are doing..
     
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