Refrigerant Replacement

@lech auto air conditionin can give more specific advice. I can preview a few points:

The only 'sealant' where the line attaches should be an O ring. The one on the suction line is a 13.4 mm ID, 18.2 mm OD, 90099-14121. The one on the discharge line is, umm, shown on this drawing but not labeled, oops. The drawing also doesn't clearly show that it's included with the line if you bought a new line, but I'm guessing it is.

If there is any kind of mechanical damage on the compressor mating surface such that the O ring would not seal there, you're not likely going to find any 'sealant' that could improve matters. Just replace whatever broke and then put it together with the right O rings.



Yes, the entire system must be evacuated before you add refrigerant, especially as it may have been open to the air for a while after the line broke. Also, you should replace the receiver dryer (88474 in that drawing).

Yes, a good vacuum pump made for A/C work is the only way to draw a sufficient vacuum.

You might need to add some new lubricant, but do not allow PAG oil anywhere near the car. Use Denso ND-Oil 11 or some other lubricant guaranteed safe for the electric compressor.

If any PAG oil has been added already, all might not be lost. There was an article suggesting that if caught quickly enough, just replacing the compressor and HECAT H-1000 flushing all the rest of the system might save the day.

 

The refrigerant, straight R134a, is easy to buy other places; just make sure it really is straight, not helpfully mixed with the wrong oil or anything.

The thing about ND-Oil 11, I seem to recall, is it is only sold in tins of more than you want, for more money than you want to spend. So a shop that already has some is a better deal. There may be alternative oils that claim to be hybrid-compressor safe (if you trust them), available in smaller quantities and prices.

 

Some dealerships sell at a discount from the list price, which is $171.77.

Your dealership seems to like the idea of marking up from the list price.

Nice work if you can get it.

 

I’m reading this on the fly while I’m driving between jobs so if I leave something out forgive me and if I get bad voice to text errors in poor word usage, forgive me I have no time to watch this while driving or edit.

Remember, there is a seal on the other side of the expansion valve connected to the Evaporator that’s not shown in the diagram.
Be careful on some alternatives to ND 11 some guys are trying to release universal electric compressor oil that is either of a higher or lower Viscosity not meant for the compressor, but it will still work. Just like if your engine requires zero20 viscosity and you put in 2050 viscosity we know the engine will turn over and it will run down the road but those of you who no engine and lubrication problems that are caused by too thick viscosity we know what will happen in the long run the same goes the other way around.

Some of these so-called universal electric compressor oils are manufactured from vegetable stock, which is a cheap alternative of Esther, based lubricant that break down easily.
Some of them produced or shipped in plastic bottles moisture absolutely absorbs and goes through plastic for stocked items. That’s been many months on a shelf, stored in a warehouse..

This is why I good quality POE oil. A.k.a. Esther are only shipped in metal containers..

Very very very rarely. I have only once seen a leak from the actual compressor housing on a Prius where the different components of the shell that are assembled meet together, actually looked at the casing itself.

For the people who, unfortunately get the very small tiny, universal O-ring kits. They often contain O-rings that are just a few thousand smaller or a few thousand thicker sometimes too thick..

In both cases, the seal, O ring me not leak when you initially put it on, but as it ages to thin of an O-ring will leak later on under a certain pressure, especially as it ages, and it loses its elasticity.

In the other scenario, too thick of an O-ring can go on get damaged as it is inserted,

or later, it will pass all test right now, but with thermal cycling expansion and contraction of metal and aging of the O-ring where the seal has been damaged. Will leak later..
In every example the technician thinks he’s done a great job because it did not leak while I was sitting there right in front of him.
But ends up as a costly repair for the customer months or years later. There’s those who don’t care if it’s a costly repairs for the customer months or years later so long as they collected money and got the car out the door but that’s the discussion for a different time..

 

You might consider using Refrigeration Technologies RT200R Nylog- Gasket/Thread Sealant.

 

the blue NYLOG for POE oil & HFO refrigerant like r134 r410 r1234yf . Red NYLOG is for CFC Refrigerant like r12 & r22 with mineral oil

you can get it online at True Tech Tools. You get a additional 8% off the price if you use my promo code for my company LECHAIR all one word all capital letters you put it in the coupon code box when you check out and it will re-calculate and reduce 8% off the price.

Nylog Blue

 

No, I do not have a diagram, but I know they are available and probably if you, Google search expansion valve O-rings for that particular year make model somebody should have posted something for sale online

 

NYLOG on all orings Even for drier plug.
Leave vacuum pump on overnight
drier sock is the vary last thing you install. DO NOT OPEN THE PACKAGE UNTIL THE VARY LAST MINUTE YOU GOING TO INSERT into tube. the desiccant works really fast immediately removing water (moisture/humidity) right out of the air. Then turn on vacuum pump let that baby suck start a Harley over night at least.

ND-11 made by Denso is POE oil made for electric compressors.

if you get any other POE oil just make sure it says made for electric compressors.

add oil last thing just before turning on vacuum pump. The POE oil is EXTREMELY Hydroscopic. Like desiccant the second you remove the cap on the can is starts removing moisture out of the air. Just throw the rest away in the can. Just the air replacement for the liquid poured out fills inside of can with moisture. Contaminated the POE oil.

that’s why DENSO sells only metal cans that come with condenser with only enough oil for that one item.

other POE oil manufacturers only sell it in foil bags with one way valve or on one way injunction tube one use only. Because the oil is so hydroscopic.

 

on a compressor burn out when you have burnt oil black or gray with metal flakes then you replace expansion valve.

when old compressor removed pour out old oil if clean and clear you are ok . Don’t need to replace expansion valve. If black with metal flakes should flush out evaporator to .

 

I "think" this encompasses it. Let me know if there's more needed, and I can dig.

 

It's hygroscopic, not hydroscopic. Big difference!

 

That’s the problem with relying on voice to text and not proofreading