Red Triangle of Death, AC & More

sorry for your troubles.

this is a difficult situation. off the top of my head, i'd say start looking around for a decent corolla or some such.
at 300k, it's only a matter of time, and there is no way to predict what major repairs you may need.

start with the 12v. don't take their word for it. if your boyfriend has a voltmeter, have him check it after the car has been off overnight. also, check the battery connections for more corrosion and tightness, especially the negative to ground.
if he can't do that, you should really look for a newer car.

you may need a prius aware scanner and a subscription to the service manual if you are going to diy.

all the best!

 

Autoparts store code reader will miss many Prius specific codes and can report invalid Prius codes.

If you plan to stay w/ a Toyota/Lexus, consider getting Techstream w/ mini VCI from Amazon (~$30); doesn't matter who you purchase from, as all the sellers get it from the same 1or2 suppliers in China. Quality control is poor, and you may have to order a replacement. Techstream is the official diagnostic software approved by Toyota and used at the dealers. B/C the stuff on Amazon is a hacked copy and an imitation OBD2 cable, it is best to install Techstream on an obsolete and spare, 32bit Windows OS laptop (XP, Vista, 7), that will only be used for diagnostic purposes. Mac install possible too. Ask friends/family if they work or know someone who works in IT; this person will likely have access to obsolete laptops laying around collecting dust, and should be able to give it to you free of charge. A dealer will charge $100+ to retrieve codes.

P0420 - Given the mileage, Catalytic converter is most likely in need of replacement. If you live in a CARB State, you are supposed to purchase a CARB certified catalytic converter that is only available from the dealer or dealers who sell genuine OEM parts online at a considerable discount compared to their retail counter prices. Some people are ok to install a used Cat or a universal weld-on/bolt-on Cat. If the car is consuming a lot of oil, any replacement Cat will live a shortened life. Do you know how much oil you have to add between oil changes?

C1241 - 12V battery is in a discharged state. Recharge it w/ a smart AGM compatible charger, clear the codes, and all should be well. Using a regular charger will NOT fully recharge an AGM battery. If the current battery does need to get replaced, an Optima is a poor choice (38Amp Hr); Toyota TrueStart, Bosch, Exide, and AC Delco, are same 45Amp Hr battery that came w/ your car. PepBoys sells the Bosch for $152; shipping might be possible.
Read Post #5 & #8 (Is my inverter coolant pump slowly failing? | PriusChat)

How to load test the Prius 12V batt yourself.
What the measurements mean.
Examples of Smart AGM compatible chargers.​

C1242 - This might possibly be a result of the low 12V battery. Recharge 12V, clear codes, and see if this code goes away.

C1300 - issue w/ the skid control. Maybe a false coder reported by the autoparts store?

Smart Key not working. Is the SKS button OFF?


HV (High Voltage) Battery (aka Hybrid Battery), was NOT replaced. The Inverter Pump was replaced.

AC System.
How are you working on it?
What type of refrigerant did you add, and how much?
Do you know the specs for the Hi and Lo side?
Are you using a virgin AC manifold gauge set that has only been connected to Toyota/Lexus hybrids?
How did you determine you have a leak?

 

When you did recharged with the r134, did you also used the recommended compressor oil(ND11)? If you used any outside this, you for to discharge em out from the system, before it causes harm to the AC system.

 

The mileage on your car tells a lot about its remaining life.
You say you top oil after every refills? Might be signs of engine problems already.
Just hope it doesn't get to replacing that engine.


Dxta

 

This is very specific. Our ac systems can not handle any additives at all because of the electric compressor. So if it had anything in it besides ONLY 134a the system may be compromised. Anything at all, leak sealer, universal pag oil, conditioners... All very bad for the compressor that has already been strained by the fans being installed improperly. You can't even use the same hoses or recovery unit on a hybrid as the moisture and contaminants are enough to take out our systems. I just beat lung cancer. If my ac fails, I'm screwed! I can't breathe!

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Although you don't specify how much oil you add between gas fill ups, it is probably more than a few ounces (1-3). Don't waste your money on engine additive oil products that claim to: stop/reduce oil leaks, reduce oil consumpiton, etc. The only thing that stops oil consumption is:
1) a new engine,
2) used engine that doesn't burn excessive oil like yours ($450 on up)
3) engine overhaul w/ new piston rings, rehone cylinder walls, new valve guide seals, possibly new valves, possibly new valve springs, cam seals, and other wear parts.

Not worth replacing the Catalytic converter until the oil consumption is resolved w/ new/used engine or an overhaul.

Refilled w/ R134a ONLY? There are many R134a cans on the market that have additives (dyes, o-ring conditioners, PAG oil, etc), that are incompatible w/ the Prius AC system. You need to be absolutely certain R134a only.

AC likely was never properly repaired from the initial accident and subsequent post repair attempts. You may enjoy reading Lech's postings to gain some insight why few places can work on AC systems competently; click the Postings Tab (lech auto air conditionin | PriusChat).
I like this perspective he provides here: Air Condition Problem | PriusChat

You are in a bad spot. Still owe money on the car and have some costly repairs:

• engine (new/used/rebuilt) - $500 used engine + many hours for your man to install. This would be a 'fun' project, and a big sense of accomplishment for him if undertaken. Price reputable shops installation labor rates.
  
• catalytic converter - weld on/bolt on replacement is cheap vs OEM replacement. Call muffler shops for labor rates.
  
• AC not working - proper diagnosis and repair can quickly become cost prohibitive
• other unknown DTCs may still be present that the autoparts store is unable to retrieve due to equipment
• Guaranteed future cost: the HV Battery will require replacement at some point down the road. New OEM HV Battery is $1800-$2500; good for another 8-10+ years of trouble free operation. Used/Remanufactured/Refurbished/Rebuilt are cheaper, but will ultimately cost you more money and time due to inconvenient breakdowns; many horror stories from unsuspecting victims who thought wrong.

 

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

well said!