Recommendations for new speakers

infinity 60.7 and 62.7 - i replaced front & rear speakers, and it sounds fantastic. i did add an amp, but left the stock cd/radio unit in the dash & it's great.

i have a guide - just search for 'sparky's speaker replacement guide' - should be little help.

 

We have an '05 non-JBL and non-Nav Prius that we have apparently blown the passenger side speaker on.

1) Will adding speakers and possibly an amp cause any problems with the stock headunit?

2) Should we get a component system for the front since there is a tweeter in each front door? Or should we just purchase a tweeter seperately?

3) Where's the best place to mount an amp in a Prius?

4) I've seen some discussion on the concerns of adding an amp. Can it be wired to the battery in the rear without problem like a normal amp, or where is the best place/setup to run the amp?

TIA for any help. I know I'm asking a lot of questions, but I've done just a little car audio work in the past, and I don't want to do anything unholy to our cool Prius!

 

1) It shouldn't. Best bet is to use an amp with speaker level inputs.

2) You would get the best sound from a component speaker set.

3) That depends on the size fo the amp and how hot it runs. The best place (I think) is in the storage compartment unnder the floor in the rear hatch. Nice and roomy, and it's right next to the battery, which takes us to question...

4) Yes, you can wire an amp to the battery just like any other car. The engine will run if it needs to recharge the battery. Just use common sense and don't install some 10,000 watt super system in your Prius.


I plan on replaceing the speakers in each door with an efficent component speaker set. I may or may not replace the center speaker. I plan on getting a smallish subwoofer and install the amp in the cargo area under the floor. Nothing fancy or loud, I prefer quality over quantity.

 

Ok, the word has come from the lady...if we can at all avoid it, she does not want an amp installed. We did some looking, and for about $120, we can get a set of 4 Pioneer TS-A1681R 4 way 6.5" speakers. You can check them out here: http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?sk...d=1099388425882

1) Do you all think these speaker would work alright without an amp? (i.e. good quality sound and little risk of blowing the speaker)

2) Will the tweeters that are stock be alright if we just dropped the new speakers straight in?

 

You're supposed to listen to them, not look at them. Or are you installing them for the visual effect rather than the aural effect?

You're making a huge mistake by trying to replace your fronts with coaxial speakers rather than component speakers, and an even huger mistake by not listening to the speakers before you buy.

 

You don't actually have a Prius yet right, so you have no experience installing aftermarket stereo equipment in one.

The speaker-level inputs on my MTX amp were not compatible with the output from the Prius JBL amp. The amp would not turn on. Adding a line-out converter and using the low-level inputs on the MTX amps solved the problem.

I've got 700 watts (tested) of MTX amplifiers under the floor of the cargo area in my Prius, and the amps barely get warm to the touch, even when playing for extended periods at levels that would cause permanent hearing loss (if I were in the car at the time).

 

Actually, I DO have a Prius, but even if I didn't, I would know exactly what I needed to do. I have enough car stereo experience to do pretty much any car. Only excepetions are ones like our Volvo, which uses the pure fiber optic MOST system. Most car stereo shops can't even work on these either. Anyway, if you want more, here's a detailed list of what I plan to do:

Audio Control LC8 - Use this to sum the front channel signals (woofer and tweeter) to one discrete channel. After this I will have 4 full range outputs. If i keep center channel, then it will remain powered by the factory amp. Gain will be set on the Cleansweep (below) to match volumes. If I ever decide to upgrade to even more speakers, I can have up to eight full range channels.

JL Audio Cleansweep CL441DSP from the LC8 the signal will pass through the Cleansweep to give 4 FLAT full range signals.

5 channel amp (brand undecided, still comparing) From the Cleansweep, the signal will go to a 5 channel amp. Four full range for component speakers in the doors, and one subwoofer channel. This will go in the cargo compartment under the rear cargo floor. I'm sure your system runs fine. That's why I said it depends on how hot the amp runs. IF you get some $50 flea-market 1000w amp, it's probably very inefficient and would run much hotter. A high quality, efficient amplifier usually runs only slightly warm under normal conditions.

Component speakers (brand undecided, still comparing) Component pairs in each door. Likely Boston Accosutics, Morel, MB Quart, or Focal.

JL Audio 8W7 Subwoofer Right size and right performance. This will be installed in a custom fiberglass enclosure built into the small storage compartment on the right side of the trunk. It will be designed so that it is removable so I can change the taillight bulbs when necessary.

The system will be installed along with two headrest monitors and DVD player at Sensuous Sounds in Tampa. I could install it myself, but I'm at a stage in life where I'd rather pay someone else to do it. Hell, I don't even mow my own lawn anymore... :huh:

www.sensuoussound.com

 

That's a particularly poor choice for two reasons. First, the W7 series of subwoofers is designed for maximum volume for SPL competitions, not for sound quality. Second, the W7 requires a larger enclosure than the better sounding W6 series. For the space you're targeting, you won't be able to build an enclosure with the recommended volume for the W7. The W6 series was designed specifically to perform well when installed in smaller enclosures. I do not know who is advising you but they really blew it on the subwoofer choice.

 

Really? I've heard both subs in action, and the W7 has amazing sound quality. Yes, it is designed for more performance than the W6, but as far as sound quality goes, it's just as good. I read many reviews (which nearly unanimously rave about it) and did lots of listening before deciding. I have also owned several JL subs through the years. I stand by my choice. Also, the smallest W6 is a 10".

The space I'm planning on having it installed will be more than enough. Volume of hte box should be just under 1 cu.ft., and the sub only requires 0.875 (the W6 requires 0.675 cu.ft.). It's hard to get an exact estimate of the volume, because it'll be a free form shape. However, it extends from the top of the trunk to the floor, and fills the entire left side of the trunk up to the pull-up cargo floor. The plastic tub that's there will be removed, and the space actually slopes down towards the outside of the car. The actual box/sub will protrude just a bit past the edge of the plane that would be if you drew a flat face over the side pocket. Volume will not be an issue. Here are some pics, which may clarify (or may not). So far the volume is a guesstimate. If it turns out to be much smaller when it's mocked up, then of course I'll use something different. However, if space allows, the 8W7 is the one. It's got quality AND quantity.

First shows just he plastic tub which will be removed.
Next is the width of the space (13").
Height is 19" at the front, and similarly tall in back due to slope.
Finally, space with cargo box.

 

I considered putting a sub there but was discouraged because of it seemed like it would overlap the hidden storage box above the spare tire so I wouldn't be able to open that door. Do you think you can do it and remain access to the hatch storage box above the tire?

 

BTW I agree that the w7 is definitely considered a great sound quality sub; it's not just for SPL. In fact most SPL competitors would choose something else.

 

If it's built right, you can still keep full functionality of hte rear cargo box. Just make sure they do a dry run forst to make sure they know how much space is necessary for the storage box to still open.

 

I made a cut out of 1/2" MDF that matched the Toyota trunk panel and replaced it. I bolted my Infinity Basslink onto it and put the 4 channel on the bottom side. No holes in the original equipment. I then cut a door with hinges and handle to gain access to the storage area. Easier access than before IMO. As far as speaker. I have Focals upfront and Polks in the back. Got it all used so a super deal for really good sound.

 

Don't forget about the beeps. Those beeps are generated by the JBL amp (or the stock radio) and are output to the rear speaker outputs and front tweeter outputs. For stock, they are only output to the front speakers.

 

By using a setup as I'm planning, you get to keep all the factory beeps and other integrated functions. Each channel remains discreet, and the signals are still generated by the JBL amp. Now however, the signal will be converted to a signal usable by an aftermarket amp. You get the benefit of higher quality audio components as well as keeping the integrated equipment. Win-win!

Also, JL Audio just debuted a new unit similar to the Audio Control one called the Cleansweep CL-SSI which does tha same thing by summing the two filtered channels into one channel (front tweeter + front woofer = front full range). Then it passes to the original Cleansweep and is then equalized to give a (relatively) flat signal for the amplifier. I decided to use this instead, as I prefer to keep components of the same manufacturer. Things tend to work alittle better together if made by the same people.