Anyone know what the connector is for the rear luggage light. I installed one of the hatch LED kits but don't like that it turns on right when the hatch is opened. Not always will I want the extra light. I was thinking of putting in a switch but want to keep the original harness uncut so I'm looking for a male / female set of that connector I can use to wire in a switch. It's the same connector that plugs into the stock light in the cargo area: 8133058010 Genuine Toyota LAMP ASSY, LUGGAGE 81330-58010 | eBay I tried looking here but none of the connectors match: WIRING & CLAMP. 2015 Toyota Prius | Toyota Reference hatch light threads: Easy Step by Step to Install Rear Cargo Trunk Lights? | PriusChat sfprankster's (mis)adventures modding a 2014 Prius Model Three | Page 6 | PriusChat Where I bought my rear hatch lights: Rear Hatch Trunk Luggage LED Lamps for Toyota Prius 2010 - 2015 Some pics of the connector I'm looking for and my install: PXL_20210309_065801357 by amarino posted Mar 9, 2021 at 12:13 AM PXL_20210309_065752351 by amarino posted Mar 9, 2021 at 12:13 AM I was thinking to wire in the switch here and cut out in the hatch trim. PXL_20210309_065657749 by amarino posted Mar 9, 2021 at 12:13 AM Finished lights (rear hatch not closed all the way so lights still on: PXL_20210309_071429818 by amarino posted Mar 9, 2021 at 12:13 AM
In this post you will see an example (for a different connector, of course) of the information you get in the online Electrical Wiring Diagram for connectors and terminals. (It has a link near the bottom to another post with the earlier steps of how you navigate down to the connector you're looking for.) While the EWD will always show you a part number for the connector that goes on the wire harness, it is not always the case that its mating connector is available to buy. Sometimes the mating connector is just molded into the part being plugged into, like the luggage light. So sometimes you will strike out there. (There are even a few cases where you can get a part number for the connector on the harness, but it isn't available in the distribution channel.) What I sometimes do as an alternative to a full male/female connector housing pair is just: back one terminal out of the connector housing you've got. In its place, insert one repair terminal purchased at the dealer, using the 82998- number found in the EWD. Get one of these little Euro-terminal blocks in a size that the whole original metal terminal will fit in: You can insert the terminal far enough into the terminal block that the clamping screw clamps down on the crimped part, you don't smash or distort the shape of the mating part. Join there also the free end of the repair wire you bought, and click the terminal on the other end into the original connector housing. Also clamp in a wire to your extra switch. Any time you want to go back to stock, just undo that and click the original terminal back into its original place. Good as new. Another approach I used just recently was to kind of roll my own "connector housing".
Thanks for the detailed response. Now debating if the $20 / 2 day access to TIS and EWD is worth it for that and if I can dedicate my free time the next 2 days to just mass download everything from there for future reference. I would hope the connector I'm looking for is available since whoever makes the kit that I installed has both male and female sides of it. Otherwise yeah I can just get some more generic style one and crimp my own on. But I figured I would spend some time and first try to find the original before.
Sometimes 'available' to a commercial kit manufacturer is not the same as 'available' to a retail purchaser. A bunch of these connectors seem to be made by Yazaki, judging from their little wedge-shaped logo. There was a time years ago when I lived in Michigan, and I stopped in to a big Yazaki facility that I recognized from regularly driving past it anyway, and by having a nice conversation with somebody I found there, I was able to walk out with a few connectors I was looking for as samples, and without having to order 10,000 of them.
Thanks for the tips ChapmanF. I came close by just looking at the connectors again and saw they have "IIIB" 2 or "IIIB 4" stamped on them, but I find too much online to easily sort through. Lot of similar stuff here but wasn't able to find the exact one: Also the luggage lamp connector is different than what the new hatch lights use in the hatch side of the wiring, so no reason to keep trying to find this random connector and will just cut these off and slice in my switch there. Probably just some spade connectors I can find in my toolbox and some tubing like you used or heat shrink to isolate it. Now to find a small switch to use for this. PXL_20210309_193223854 by amarino posted Mar 9, 2021 at 12:08 PM PXL_20210309_193157410 by amarino posted Mar 9, 2021 at 12:08 PM PXL_20210309_193440802 by amarino posted Mar 9, 2021 at 12:08 PM
Again, another option you have is to back the terminals out of the housing (they come out quite easily once you grasp the double-lock arrangement) and park them in a Euro block with your added wiring. Completely revertible to stock then (if you don't lose the housing).
The Electrical Wiring Diagram says the housing for connector R16, for the No. 2 Room Light Assembly, has Toyota part number 90980-10860, and its female terminals are available pre-crimped to repair wires (pigtails), part number 82998-12340. The Wire Harness Repair Manual identifies the mating connector housing, part number 90980-10859, and its repair wires, with male terminals, part number 82998-12330. These parts should all be available at U.S. dealers. These connectors are part of the series that Toyota calls “2.3 II,” which is actually the Sumitomo TS 090 series. I don’t think Sumitomo Wiring Systems sells directly in small quantities, but I can recommend hi-1000ec.com, a small business in Osaka, Japan, which does. You can search for the Toyota part numbers on their site to see the equivalents. They take export orders, but the cost of international shipping might make a local Toyota dealer a better option if you need only one housing and two pigtails.
That publication sounds like one I should spend more time with. Is that on TIS? Where does one find it?
I believe the Wire Harness Repair Manual is on TIS, but it may be tricky to find. A PDF version is linked from the PriusChat Wiki page. Its main value today is as a catalog of connectors, repair wires, and accessories; newer editions of the Electrical Wiring Diagram include similar information for the models they cover. Another useful reference for wire harness design, installation, and repair, available to the public at no charge, is the GM Upfitter Integration Best Practices Guideline Manual, which shares many hard-won lessons from GM’s engineers; it has a 146-page Electrical Best Practices section.
Thanks for all the great info. I also found this guy online also from Japan but shipping doesn't look too bad when I added some to cart. TS090 And sorry for the delay, busy moving and forgot to update here. Since the connector on the original car harness didn't match what was on the harness for the lights I went ahead and cut it to put my own switch with spade connectors. I put it in the top left corner of the hatch and it's easy to reach with the hatch open. Was pretty easy to cut into the hatch trim with a sharp blade and repetitive strokes until it went through. PXL_20210311_042713484 by amarino posted Apr 7, 2021 at 10:55 AM PXL_20210311_044503510 by amarino posted Apr 7, 2021 at 11:03 AM PXL_20210311_044512786 by amarino posted Apr 7, 2021 at 10:55 AM Don't worry I also heat shrinked the exposed connectors on the white wire, but they're ground anyway. PXL_20210310_024040011 by amarino posted Apr 7, 2021 at 10:55 AM