Random Misfire detected (p0300, p0301, p0302)

How many miles, and what has the maintenance history been like?

Odd that the misfires are only on two of the cylinders. Have you visually inspected the plugs, and the coils for carbon tracking or oil?

Heet won't help with much, and if it was just water that was in the fuel you would need to use quite a bit of it.

Best to just remove as much of the fuel as possible, then refill with fresh gas. Running 6 gallons of contaminated fuel through the engine may not be the best idea, and would take quite a bit of time to process. How old is your catalytic converter, and is it OEM?

Once you get the fuel out, inspect it for contamination, if positive you may want to run some PEA (aka techron) in the fuel. There are other additives that may be more effective at cleaning up the fuel delivery system, such as Kreen or B-12 Chem-Tool.

 

That HV battery is looking a little depleted on the MFD

 

Now would be a great time to swap those plugs if they are at 215k.

 

Step one may be to get some help from someone who is has some experience with a Prius. Maybe @PriusCamper is available. I think he's in your general area.

You may be seriously overcomplicating this. Sparkplugs are significantly easier to replace than messing with draining a fuel tank, and they probably really need it.
Why did you replace the MAF sensor?
Any chance you put diesel in the car by accident? Most diesel is reddish in color....
The 14.1 volts on the 12 volt battery has ZERO to do with the state of charge of the HV battery. Maybe that 'new refurb' battery from WA Hybrid is a POS. Regardless, you're showing one or zero bars on the HV battery SOC display. You're about to be F'ed, because the warranty isn't going to cover the battery if it's depleted due to your engine being unable to run. Read the warranty.

They installed a rebuilt battery, yet the engine has never successfully started since they installed it? That's wonderful. They were laughing all the way to the bank.

The best thing you could do right now is clean the heck out of the throttle body, install new sparkplugs, disconnect the 12v battery for a few minutes. Reconnect it and let the car reset itself back to factory default. The HV battery will show about 60% (default) state of charge so it will let you try to start the engine. Leave the intake air filter off and when you try to start it, have someone spray(ing) starter fluid into the throttle body while it's cranking. Use the starter fluid to keep it running while it injects the (potentially) contaminated fuel for a few minutes. Hopefully the fuel lines will clear themselves and then the fresh gas from the tank will reach the engine.

 

Ok, so let's start with this. The 12v battery in your car is used to power up the 12v accessories like computers, lights, electric water pumps, etc. The HV battery is what spins the engine for starting. When your 12v battery died, or anytime you lose 12v power (like when swapping batteries) all the ecus in the car return to factory default values, your gas gauge also goes to one blinking dot until it calibrates itself. As the car is driven (and ages) some of these ecus have parameters that slowly change due to wear and tear, carbon buildup, etc. Throttle body position is one of these. The throttle body inner surfaces tend to get carbon buildup, which can cause the idle position of the throttle blade to change. That's ok, because the ecus adapt to this. Unfortunately, all that "adapting" is lost when 12v power is lost, so now the ecu is expecting blade position to be in the 'as new' position, but it may not be. This can prevent the car from starting, which is why it's a good idea to scrub the inner surface to eliminate the carbon buildup and let the blade actually return to the 'as new' position so it matches what the ecu is looking for.

I'm curious about how you checked tank level?
Your car does not have an EGR system.

Who did you piss off that would mess with your car?
Your gas lid needs to be released from inside the car. Did they pry it open or was the car unlocked?
Unusual that you were able to buy a MAF sensor but the store didn't have any cleaner? weird...most parts stores have a dozen cans. For future ref, even AutoZone brake cleaner works like a champ if you have no other choice.

 

Isn't the HV battery normaly empty when you first start the car?

 

The HV battery is normally kept at ~60% state of charge during standard car operation. When the battery drops to about 42%, the engine will kick on to recharge it. You can see this in real time, if you have the car parked, put the car in ready mode and run the AC. The engine will go through it's normal warmup routine, then the engine will turn off. The AC compressor is powered by the HV battery, so the AC will slowly deplete the HV battery. When the MFD display drops to 2 purple bars (which corresponds to approximately 42-43% SOC) the engine will turn on to recharge the battery until it indicates three bars, which will then turn blue. The car will try to maintain the battery in the blue range.

Keep in mind, the HV battery is what provides the power to spin the engine for starting, not the 12v battery like a standard car. This is why, if you deplete the HV battery, you're in trouble. You can't just go grab a battery charger to fix it.

 

I have a very similar issue here.. any way to charge the battery during all of this?

my story is very close to this one and I'm not sure what the issue is

 

When the HV battery reaches ~42% SOC, the engine will start automatically to recharge the battery. This assumes the car is in READY and is functioning normally.

Are you saying your battery is discharged and doesn't have enough SOC to start the engine?

 

Having issues with getting the car going and because of this the battery isn't being charged