I have a 100 amp DC fuse that needs to be replaced and must take out the fuse box and turn upside down to unscrew the retainer to get the fuse out. I need to power the car down completely. So I am going to take the key out of the ignition,disconnect the negative side terminal to the small 12 volt trunk battery and disconnect the traction drive battery. They replace the fuse and reconnect everything back. I do not have linesmen gloves but I do have some new very heavy duty welding gloves and can wear some rubber coated garden gloves under the welding gloves. I'll stand on wood too. I need to know how and where the disconnect is for the big battery. I assume it is in the trunk but want to know if there is some special way of doing this?
Engine compartment fuse box on the 12 V circuit? There is an orange safety plug in the back. Pull down the handle, remove the plug and the problem is solved. Bob Wilson
After removing the plug you may want to wait several minutes - ISTR there are capacitors in the inverter that will retain charge for a while (if the car has recently been READY). -Chap
when I had to change the inverter in my 2002, I waited around 10-15mins and checked everything with a meter and all was dead.
OK all powered down. Now I have to figure how to separate the fuse box to get to the backside underneath to change the bolt holding in 110 amp DC fuse.It looks like little black plastic tabs I may have to squeeze to get the fuse interior out?
I figured it out. What a job changing that fuse. Everything works fine now. Thanks for all your help guys.
I started to work that area with another NHW11 last summer. A new NHW11 owner had bought the car in Birmingham at an auction. But he could only run it on a fully charged 12V battery . . . until it went dead and then he'd put another one in. Although the fusible link looked good, I wanted to ohm it out just to make sure it was good and the 12V DC-to-DC inverter was bad. It was a pain-in-the-nice person. I swapped my spare inverter for one from a Nashville salvage. With his car running, we soon found he also had a burned out, MG2 stator. The transaxle from the Nashville salvage was swapped and with only one latent defect, he was running. The 'interlock' line never worked for us but there was a work-around that allowed the car to start and run. Regardless, I have great respect for how difficult it is to swap the fusible link in the engine compartment assembly. We did not have swap it out but gosh it is not fun. Bob Wilson