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Prius heater not getting hot enough!

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by Chester92, Nov 30, 2024 at 3:31 AM.

  1. Chester92

    Chester92 New Member

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    I bought a 2011 prius with 180k miles in the summer. Car runs amazing! Did a tuneup and changed the water pump / thermostat with aisin brand. Its about 40 degrees now and I went for a drive but the cabin temperature is not getting hot enough at the hottest setting HI. Its warm but not hot enough to have to turn it off of full blast.

    I can hear some air bubbles under the dash when idling so my guess is air trapped in the system? I followed the coolant bleeding procedure by filling to the B line and maintenance mode squeezing the hoses etc. I notice that on the front defrost setting without AC on and the HI setting on the AC lines are cold as if the AC is on. Could this be a result of a bad climate control setting?

    Been reading up and I need some help from you guys. Will update you as we go through this!
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I think in that car and even maybe in my generation too when you put that defrost on it automatically puts the compressor in the mix not like it's air conditioning but still it's on that's why you're feeling the cold turn the defrost off heat on high not 85 but HI and let it run a few minutes like that I can't imagine you're running around all the time with the defrost on usually I only need that a couple minutes in the morning and as soon as the cabin gets warm yeah anyway. But bubbles are yes are a bad thing so now when you filled it up to be and you've done the driving and what not has it fallen down to the full mark? If so that air should just work its way out I mean I don't know how long this has been you've done all this work but generally a few drive cycles I don't mean 4 minutes. Should get it
     
  3. StarCaller

    StarCaller Senior Member

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    If your car has air trapped in the cooling system, it will likely result in no heat because the air bubbles prevent the coolant from circulating properly through the heater core, which is responsible for generating warm air in your car cabin; essentially, the air pockets block the heat transfer, leading to cold air blowing from the vents.
     
  4. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Did you fill the system quickly? That's the issue.
    You should drain the system, and save the coolant!
    Then, SLOWLY, about a cup or two at a time, fill the system. Wait 5-10 seconds,
    then add more. You'll hear the coolant draining, and the air being pushed out.
    It will take you longer to fill it, but you won't have air in the system.
    And yes, fill to the B line. Start the car and let the engine run until it shuts off.
    The level should go down to the full line, more or less. Add coolant to just about the full line.
    And you're on lever ground, right?

    Then drive the car a mile or so trying to keep the engine running the whole time.
    Then park the car and let it cool. Check the coolant level. Top off as needed.

    Filling too fast doesn't allow the air to be pushed out, it just caused air pockets.
    This happens on other vehicles too. Filling slowly and a little at a time allows a gap in
    the hose and lines so the air can be displaced.


     
  5. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Book Cover Judge

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    My first thought is stop-leak product was installed by seller. See also the following postscript.
     
    #5 Mendel Leisk, Nov 30, 2024 at 9:13 PM
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2024 at 10:45 PM
  6. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    PS: NEVER NEVER EVER PUT THAT SO CALLED STOP LEAK/HEAD GASKET SEALER IN
    THE COOLANT SYSTEM!
    IT DOES NOT WORK! IT ONLY CLOGS UP THE COOLANT SYSTEM....
     
    Mendel Leisk likes this.