1. Attachments are working again! Check out this thread for more details and to report any other bugs.

Prius gen 2 wont start

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by olabondia, Aug 10, 2023.

  1. olabondia

    olabondia New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2023
    9
    2
    0
    Location:
    coimbra
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Good night,

    So the story on this one is that i got my cat stolen on private park, so i sent my prius to my local toyota dealer
    after sometime because of insurance that cat replacent extended to 6+ months. When toyota when to replace the cat, suprise suprise the car was complely dead.

    After quoting me a 4+ grand for the job ( new cat, and hybrid battery), i (worked on alot of cars and was complely certain i could do this job) got the car towed to my driveway and started working on fixing it.

    Cat was a breeze, hybrid battery on the other hand is giving me a hard time..
    So after i replaced the battery, (both 12v and hybrid) and went to start the car and it was normal for some minutes. And i got it to neutral and was able to drive on eletric only. The thing is i wanted to start the motor to give the new cat the time it needed to adapt on idle.

    When i tried to fire up the engine, i heard massive clicking sounds at the back of the car (kinda like a relay but louder) and boom triangle of death along with warning light to the "main" 12v battery. i tried a couple more times and it was the same thing all along but now it is saying that i have 0 charge on hybrid battery and can't get it to drive on eletric only it is just stuck on this. ( before trying to fire it up the display screen was giving me more than 50% charge)

    I supose the 12v battery must be the problem since it came wrong and will need to be replaced, i am just wondering if there is some technical stuff that i need to do..

    I also mesured each individual module before assembly and it was all 7.8v with a few at 7.5v nothing out of the normal i think. The toyota dealer ship mentioned the control module for the hybrid battery and that it could have gone bad, i just assumed that was dealers bs trying to get some money, but i think it is time to consider that possibility.

    I appreciate any advice and thoughts you could give me.

    Thank you.
     
    bisco likes this.
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    10,374
    1,792
    0
    Location:
    Durham NC
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    At the HV battery on the front end of the battery which is on the Jesus I think the left hand side of the car when you're standing at the trunk opposite the fan where the relays are there is an orange plug that goes to the HV battery computer It is a known issue for pins and nastiness in that plug so now you got to take the tray off the top of the battery take the cover off the top of the battery the metal one or not the battery but the front end the relay section. And unplug that orange plug that goes into that computer and look at the pins look at the receptacle on the computer itself and make the determination whether some pins are damaged water's gotten in there is corrosion etc also when you're disassembling the front end you need to have the large orange safety plug removed so you don't get shocked and very hurt please be careful.
     
  3. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2020
    3,668
    1,715
    0
    Location:
    NJ-USA
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    Four
    The clicks are the HV contactors (relays) at the battery. They are quite loud if you don't have all the interior panels back in place.

    You NEED a scantool that can check ALL systems on your Gen2 for codes. Do not attempt to ready the car or start the engine ( ICE) until you understand what's going on and performed repairs.

    You will likely need a good 12V charger to keep the auxiliary battery voltage up while performing diagnostics. Usually the HV system supplies power to the DC-DC converter to run the "low voltage" system, but that's not an option right now if you have ICE - hybrid problems.

    The hybrid system uses the HV battery to spin the ICE at 1000RPM for up to 10 seconds when it tries to start the engine. If you do this enough times without the ICE actually running then you'll discharge your new HV battery and be really stuck.

    Here's a thread that reviews several scantool apps and devices.

    https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/3290690

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  4. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2021
    422
    233
    0
    Location:
    California and Hawaii
    Vehicle:
    2004 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Get techstream, and a laptop if necessary, build a grid charger, get a smart charger for the 12V bat. All cheap and quick.
     
  5. olabondia

    olabondia New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2023
    9
    2
    0
    Location:
    coimbra
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Hello,

    So today i got to work on a few things you guys said, first i checked the connectors on the HV computer and it was all nice and clean (no spec of dust or corrosion) so i ruled that out.
    I got a new battery but i came wrong again, so i hooked that in paralel to the last battery and gave it a charge with my charger just to be on the sure side.

    I also got the cheap obd scaner i normaly use for my other cars and i got some readings- main codes it spits out a P0A80 " Replace Hybrid Battery" . And some o2 sensors and cat module sensor ( i belive its because it never ran, so it never got to read anything).

    So here's what it is doing. I press to start and the battery gave me one bar above 50%, and i (after cleaning error codes) turned on the car, after some time (Now it only "clicks" one time) it got ready and i had the handbrake on( i forgot it was on) on only eletric tried to go foward it went and then it stoped (bc of the handbreak) and shortly after shuted down. some thing were happening at the same time so, i put it in neutral and the car was going kinda crazy like "pewpewpew" and displayed a message "to park the veichle put it in P park ! " .

    So second try was error codes all came back, triangle of death and a battery icon with "main" red. I would also like to point out that the battery is displaying now 0 charge completly 0. At this point the car didn't even try to get "ready" and wasn't clicking at all...

    I unpluged the white connector on the 12v bat and waited.. After some time i plugged in and it was displaying again the normal (expected) so after one only click on the back i tried to turn on the actualy ICE motor.. 0 response- With the veichle diagnostic saying the voltage is 12.8 and it doesn't change between trying it on or not.

    At this stage i belive the problem is the computer that is shutting of the hybrid pack for some reason and it doesn't have charge to actually power on the car because the pack is disconnected..

    What further leads me to belive this is that when the car tries to get on for the "first time" it has the correct lvl battery, but it changes after trying again.

    I can't get my Dr prius to actually connect to my scaner so i can't get each module voltage, but since i got all the modules out yesterday and there were nothing to worry i doubt it has to do with the actual modules/pack.


    Notes: I am using torque pro to check codes.



     
  6. olabondia

    olabondia New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2023
    9
    2
    0
    Location:
    coimbra
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Tomorow i will try to get a reading on the SOC and each battery module as i found a way to do it on my scaner now
     
  7. olabondia

    olabondia New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2023
    9
    2
    0
    Location:
    coimbra
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Update

    Okay so all modules are arround 14.4 - 15.1v, expect for one that is at 9.9/10v and 2 that are at 11v

    New fault code- P0AC0 - I googled and it appears to be a problem at the connectors/controle module?

    I also noticed that when i start the ignition to get readings, the HV SOC starts at arround 60% and then drops gradually till 0.

    HV POWER is at 0 kW
    HV CURRENT is at 0.2 Amps
    HV CHARGE is at 16.0 kW
    HV DISCCHARGE is at 64.0 kW

    I got some screenshots, sometime after the first power and at the end ( SOC changes to in that span of time)

    [​IMG] and [​IMG]

    I will remove the battery again and mesure each module to find out were that 10v is and charge it.

    Also does the 12v battery have to be original from toyota? Can't just i get some aftermarket one?

    Thanks.
     
  8. JohnPrius3005

    JohnPrius3005 Active Member

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2021
    422
    233
    0
    Location:
    California and Hawaii
    Vehicle:
    2004 Prius
    Model:
    II
    You can use any 12v bat. I use a Mighty Max 35Ah SLA bat from Amazon. It’s only a very simple modification to attach the car bat cables.
     
  9. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    7,855
    3,967
    0
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    The repair manual is where you should look if you want accurate information.

    P0AC0 | Hybrid Battery Pack Current Sensor Circuit Range/Performance

    DESCRIPTION

    The battery current sensor, which is mounted on the negative cable side of the HV battery assembly, detects the amperage that flows into the HV battery. The battery current sensor inputs a voltage (which varies between 0 to 5 V in proportion to the amperage) into the IB terminal of the battery ECU. An output voltage of the battery current sensor below 2.5 V indicates that the HV battery assembly is being charged, and above 2.5 V indicates that the HV battery assembly is being discharged.

    The battery ECU determines the charging and discharging amperage of the HV battery assembly based on the signals that are input to its IB terminal, and calculates the SOC (state of charge) of the HV battery through the estimation of the amperage.

    MONITOR DESCRIPTION
    If the battery ECU detects a malfunction in the battery current sensor, it will illuminate the MIL and set a DTC.
    Use the "Upload a File" button at the bottom left to add your photos, as the images are currently broken.
    It is necessary to replace the 11 V modules as well.
    No, but the battery should ideally be of the AGM type and have the same form factor (S46B24R).
     
  10. olabondia

    olabondia New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2023
    9
    2
    0
    Location:
    coimbra
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Screenshot_2023-08-12-10-16-12-39_b9c66f921be6b9ee18febc2ed6906538.jpg Screenshot_2023-08-12-10-16-12-39_b9c66f921be6b9ee18febc2ed6906538.jpg I think you can see this now, the problem i have is that i already replaced the modules that were below 7.5 (2) and when i installed the pack the lowest cell was at 7.3

    I really don't want to spend more money on more modules.. Screenshot_2023-08-12-10-11-27-09_b9c66f921be6b9ee18febc2ed6906538.jpg
     
  11. olabondia

    olabondia New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2023
    9
    2
    0
    Location:
    coimbra
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    II
    I would like to point out that i missed the orange plug on the Control module that was around 3 pins with slight oxidation so i cleaned that right up and will do some more work today.
     
  12. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 14, 2012
    7,855
    3,967
    0
    Location:
    Wellington, New Zealand
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    It is hard to tell what problems you have given that your HV Current is 0,2 A. You really need to do a test drawing (and/or charging) 10 A or more. If you can record and save a file the best way to show bad modules is to find a clear piece of straight road and do a 0-50 km/h (100 km/h would be better), cruise for a couple of seconds, then brake reasonably hard like you might for a stop at a traffic light (but not an emergency stop, because that would kick off the regenerative braking). Another option would be to force-charge it up to 80% SoC then put your lights on full, turn the rear window heater on, and set the A/C to max cold (18ºC) and wait until it reaches 40% SoC. The time it takes to drop from 80% to 40% would also be a useful metric to know.

    But given what information we have available right now, even at the light current load, you have too much variation between your blocks. If you take the six 15,x V blocks as your baseline, you would need to replace the other nine blocks with modules that match the modules in the 15,x blocks. If you were to choose the 14,x V blocks you'd have a worse situation as there are only three that you could use to baseline.

    I don't think this battery would be viable to fix unless you have access to a lot of cheap modules, which it sounds like you don't.

    I think your best option is to find a reasonably priced battery pack from a wrecked Gen 2 or (better) a Gen 3 wrecked Prius.

    Todo o melhor
     
    #12 dolj, Aug 13, 2023
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2023
  13. olabondia

    olabondia New Member

    Joined:
    Aug 10, 2023
    9
    2
    0
    Location:
    coimbra
    Vehicle:
    2005 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Good morning.

    So MEGA update...

    I ended up buying a 12V battery from the dealer, dissambly the battery and checked each individual module, let them balance each other out along the weekend.

    After installing it the car started right up 0 problems.

    Since then i have been doing some tests, so far i noticed a problem.. When the SOC% gets to arround 29.5/30% the triangle pops up and i get P0A80...

    The overall functionality of the car is OK , the Km/L seem withing range, Still need to run a little more to get the full picture.

    a874a49f-b487-41a0-8a8a-eb2d3bc2ff80.jpg photo1692360906.jpeg photo1692360910.jpeg
     
    bisco likes this.