Prius C - Worn Keyfob/Remote Buttons -- Repair?

Having issues with the unlock & lock buttons on the keyfob.

It's as if the outer shell buttons aren't making good enough contact with the internal switches.

Everything works great without the shell... when I have the guts in my hand.. pressing the buttons on the rubber membrane directly.

It's as if someone has worn and the tolerances seem pretty tight.

Has anyone dealt with this and found a solid fix?

I've thought about getting some strong glue and applying just a pinprick amount to the inner portion of the outer buttons... but don't really want to go this route. It will be extremely easy to apply too much then I'm stuck sanding it back...

 

Ah crap, think I put this in the wrong board. Sorry guys.

 

So I don't think it is the Keyfob switches... nor is it the battery.

I don't get it. I take the remote apart, put it back together.. it works fine for a few weeks.. then the buttons start working intermittently.. to almost not at all.

Are there any quick repairs for these keyfobs? I'm clueless.

 

Have to check.. I forget if I have a second fob.. be nice to salvage this one.

Owned the car since early 2013... started acting up several months ago.

Replaced/checked battery..

 

I DID find the second keyfob...

As for the cranky one.. I think the "guts" are where the problem lies.

I have not dug deep into the keyfob yet... now that I have the second, I may do that. So far I have replaced battery, cleaned battery contacts.... there has to be a wear point, but just not sure where that is.

 

OK, so the 2nd keyfob started exhibiting the problem almost instantly... So it doesn't appear to be an wear issue, maybe an age issue? Maybe it is this combined w/ my tendency to push the button multiple times to "make sure"? OCD perhaps..

Anyhow.. took the 1st keyfob apart.. removed battery, cleaned everything i felt comfortable cleaning/accessing with rubbing alcohol... everything else, I blew out with compressed air. tested battery at 3.13v, put it back in.

The only idea I have is that the innards are being slowly pushed "back"... and then the external switches aren't making good contact... so I folded up some small pieces of paper and put it up against the battery.. making a tighter fit for the guts of the key.

Key works great now, but it always does once i disassemble/reassemble.

 

I'd be with you.. were it not for the fact that the key can act completely dead... Then once I take the outer casing of the key off.., put it back on and that is enough to make it work perfectly again for a few weeks... then repeat.

 

This problem keeps coming back...

I believe I've tracked it to the battery compartment in the remote. It's like the battery works its way loose over time, not sure.

Anyone encounter this issue and find a reliable fix?

 

Thanks.. I've done all these things and more. The remote will work for a few hours to a few weeks, then slowly start to exhibit these issues.

I've suspected failing switches, failing batteries, loose connections, etc. I've cleaned, taped, padded, tightened, etc., etc. Nothing consistently works.

At this point, I'd suspect the 12V battery... but even that doesn't make total sense... because I can take the remote apart, put it together and it starts working again for a time...

Lately, this is the usual setup.


- Wake up... If I hit the unlock/lock buttons they won't work. After about 15-20 presses, they then start to work every single time after this.

- OR.. If I unlock the car manually without using the remote buttons, drive the car, get out, the lock button will work on the first try and every single try after.


It's almost like something in the remote needs energized or "warmed" up.. which makes no sense, I realize this. Maybe there is simply a bad connection somewhere.. but I'm having this problem with both remotes. I'd hate to change the 12V for no reason, but this seems like a fair culprit... were it not for the simple act of disassemble/reassemble making a real difference.

 

Sorry, was under the impression that the use of a multimeter checking for voltage is not comparable to a load test.. though I assume if voltage is low under no load.. it'd be low with a load.