Post ABS Actuator Replacement: Beep

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by FM1775, Dec 16, 2023.

  1. FM1775

    FM1775 Junior Member

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    Hello-

    I replaced the ABS actuator in my '05 (original to vehicle) last week with a brand new Toyota part.

    Now I need to bleed the brakes. Yes, techstream will be available when needed.

    Issue: There is a continuous beeping when I power on car with two clicks of the ON button, no foot on the brake.

    How I got here:
    During the job, I disconnected the 12V battery, disconnected the hybrid battery orange safety plug.

    Drained coolant, removed inverter, removed ABS actuator.

    Installed ABS actuator, installed inverter, replace coolant.

    Removed surplus fluid from reservoir, topped up with new brake fluid.

    Charged 12V battery.

    Connected 12V battery to car. Left orange plug un-plugged in The Big Battery.

    Hit ON button 2X, foot off of brake. BEEEEEP..., and it just won't shut off until I turn the car off.

    Shut car off. Plugged in orange safety plug to Big Battery. Turned car on again, 2x button, no foot on brake. BEEEEP...

    Shut car off. Disconnected 12V battery for 5 mins. Reconnected 12V battery. ON button 2X, no foot on brake, BEEP...

    In short, I am ready to do the brake bleed, but I can't shut that buzzer off.
    When vehicle was on the last time, have these orange lights lit up on dash:
    MAINT REQD, CHECK ENGINE, (circle!), ABS, squiggly car symbol.

    I did try ignoring the beep per the example of Charlton Heston in The Omega Man, ":There IS NO telephone!" but that didn't work. It's real and not going away. It could be a feature if one has a penchant for swearing- it's loud enough to be a very effective language bleeper. Would have been useful during the extraction of the old ABS unit for example.

    Vehicle is on jack stands, wheels off, bleed screws, bleed hoses/containers ready to go.

    I have an Innova DTC code reader, but using that didn't offer any insight into the beeping.

    Thanks if anybody has an idea how to end this farcical monotone, and have a pleasant Christmas.
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yeah I think that's okay You have all this going on because somehow you have let the fluid completely run out and you may have let it run out of the stroke simulator That's what you're pushing on when your foot it's the pedal so now you have a bleeding process that's going to be lengthy going to use probably quite a bit of fluid so on and so forth It doesn't sound like you clamped off the three outputs on the back of the reservoir running over to the actuator the stroke simulator and what have you so all these have been allowed to just run out and now you're got plenty of air to deal with and usually when the accumulator can't pump up pressure you get that continuous beep as soon as you start bleeding the brakes do the fronts and all of that and relays out and follow the instructions when you get to the point where you have to pump the brake pedal 30 times and 30 seconds That's when all this will clear I think in the beep will go off because pressure and air will be bled out of the accumulator and it will start to fill with nothing but straight fluid I usually can avoid all this but it's not worth a discussion at this point because it's been let loose you'll get it in a few minutes there are several scanning tools that can do the brake bleeding but if you have TIS or tech you're in good shape that beep continuous beep is just telling you your accumulator is way below pressure and I guess the pump is running continuously trying to mitigate that but the amount of air lack of fluid what have you.
     
  3. FM1775

    FM1775 Junior Member

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    Thanks Tombuk2, and great name.

    Clamp hoses? No, I didn't.

    I'll put on ear plugs and run the bleed procedure.
     
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  4. FM1775

    FM1775 Junior Member

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    Beep is gone. What I did to end beep: manually used a syringe to vacuum bleed 10-20ccs of fluid from each of FL, FR, RR, RL. Hit the brake pedal a few times, turned vehicle on a few times (2x power button, no foot on brake.) During this process, something got happy and the beep stopped within a few minutes.

    Next, attempted techstream 'Actuator has been removed' air bleed, several times, always with this same immediate roadblock, which comes after the relay removal prompt:

    'Air bleeding has failed.
    verify the initial conditions:
    1. The vehicle is stopped.
    2. The parking brake is applied.
    3. The ignition switch is ON.
    Do you want to try again?'

    The bleed process never gets a chance to run- immediately the 'air bleeding has failed' result happens.
    Despite the preconditions having been met, i.e.
    vehicle is stopped, parking brake is on, ignition switch is on (...by on I mean hit ON button 2x, no foot on brake).

    Now I need to get the automated TS bleed process past the starting line. Any suggestions?

    Thanks.
     
  5. FM1775

    FM1775 Junior Member

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    I wanted to verify that the ABS pump can in fact pump. For this, I turned to an illicit (i.e. non-techstream) youtube video in which a person bleeds w/o TS. I verified that the newly installed ABS pump can and will turn on (and off) in response to appropriate system conditions.

    ABS pump ON: Pushing the brake pedal. Opening wheel bleed screws. Pump response tested for all 4 wheels, all passed.

    ABS pump OFF when bleed screws are tight. No foot on brake.

    Conclusion: ABS pump turns on and off normally and as expected. It turns on in response to brake pedal and/or pressure drop, turns off after achieving threshold pressure.

    Unlike the old, bad, failing ABS actuator which turned on and off every minute without environmental prompting.

    So yes, the ABS actuator pumps as expected under test conditions above.

    (EDIT- I said gas pedal instead of brake pedal. Should be brake pedal.)
     
    #5 FM1775, Dec 17, 2023
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2023
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  6. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    You're getting it bud.
     
  7. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    Do you have a battery charger for the 12V? AFAIK, a weak 12V can prevent the bleed sequence from running.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
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  8. FM1775

    FM1775 Junior Member

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    Charged battery overnight to investigate effect of adequate battery on the process.

    In morning, battery charger reported 13.8V.

    Attempted TS bleed procedure. As before, process failed immediately with error message:

    'Air bleeding has failed.
    verify the initial conditions:
    1. The vehicle is stopped.
    2. The parking brake is applied
    ...'

    Kept trickle charger on during bleed attempt.

    Just for fun, after failed bleed attempt, I checked battery voltage as reported by charger- 13.3V.
     
  9. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    This happens there's no explanation for it I have a 2010 similar problem The '08s and '09s and what have you no problems but there has been one or two of them that have not worked but I was able to bleed them manually and they are still on the road running perfectly breaking just fine with traction control and all that working well so I can't worry about bleeding with tech. Most of them tech has worked and done the whole cycle without any real issues but there's been one or two cars where I got this failed message forever but then these cars tend to bleed real well if you're methodical and careful and they don't really have any problems like that especially if you're careful on disassembly and things like that priming the system It's pretty easy to do actually not a bad setup.
     
  10. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    Do any of the bidirectional tests for the ABS work? I have read about some people having problems with the VCI cable - they could "read" (view codes & data) just fine, but couldn't "write" (issue commands for bidirectional tests or service procedures like brake bleeding).

    The VCI cable (such as from amazon or ebay) is a cheap "clone of a clone" of the X-Horse MVCI. There are different "versions" of these clones out there - some work fine, some not so much.

    I can't say much more about this as I don't use them.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  11. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I have this exact situation right now on a 2010 this is just with the brake bleeding but with the 2010 there have been issues where I've plugged up tech and it's fancy cable that works nicely that goes with the computer I don't know exhorse Mongoose I can't remember what it says when it boots up but it's it identifies it when tech comes on and the USB cable is inserted into the computer it recognizes the cable but it will not scan this 2010 to save my life but yet her Bluetooth piece of junk with the Dr Prius app on her phone nets her data. So I don't think the OBD2 port or anything like that is weird everything on the car is working except the brake lights are on. I have an '09 that I have not been able to bleed with tech and the same cable since I've had the car almost 5 years now but the brakes work perfectly and there's no lights on there were lights on and I replaced the actuator and had to bleed it manually and it didn't take very long I might add about like a regular car and it's been working perfectly ever since but I cannot get tech to bleed the car I haven't tried an autel or any other scanner capable of the bleeding. As I don't own one but I'm about to grab autel quite inexpensive.
     
  12. FM1775

    FM1775 Junior Member

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    Stored vehicle for 1 year since brake actuator install.

    Getting vehicle back on the road, brake bleed is necessary.

    Socal Dealer's super reasonable lowball figure to bleed: $750.

    Bleeding- a fully appropriate term.
     
  13. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Absolutely not there should be no reason the brakes need to be bled after sitting for a year That's preposterous but hey If you think so spend the $68 and buy an AP200 and you can bleed your brakes all you want right in your driveway for free or the $68 the AP200 cost sounds like that'll be the first thing you do as far as getting the car back on the road I just don't see it bleeding because it's been sitting a year what happens where did the fluid go shouldn't be any of that maybe it wasn't blood properly when it was parked.
     
  14. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    The 12V is likely completely discharged unless it was on a trickle charger that whole time. Possibly damaged by the experience. Possibly too discharged for most chargers to recharge it.

    The HV pack might be OK, would the motor start? If so let the car idle until it shows a lot of bars.

    I cannot imagine why storage like that would require a brake bleed. What makes you think it is necessary? If you say "the dealer's service department told me so" consider that more of a "throw money at us" move than actual mechanic's advice.