Please help with issues on a 2001

Considering that the pump doesn't seem to be running - condition A - I'd start with replacing the pump and not replace the inverter for now. The pump has an MSRP of $140.38 (Champion ToyotaWorld's price: $106.69, plus shipping). You should also replace the coolant - the original stuff was $25 per gallon, I'm not sure how much Super Long Life Coolant (which is premixed, the original Long Life Coolant needed to be diluted) costs.

Hobbit pulled apart an inverter (Gen 2), in which you can see the cooling fins that the fluid runs through to keep the power transistors cool. It's possible that these could clog, or that the design of the original inverters wasn't quite so effective causing the power transistors to overheat in some circumstances, which would be condition B on that TSB.

A new rear hub and bearing assembly is $290.34, so I don't think $460 is that unreasonable.

 

My answer to both issues:
1) I would replace the pump first. At $350 including labour, its not bad. No question there. Its worthwhile. I notice Toyota is always ever so eager to replace inverters on Priu The inverter can be found on ebay or a junk yard for much cheaper. You can always give it to the dealer to replace it. You just pay labour. Do not under any circumstance buy a new inverter for a car with 119,000 miles on her. Unless of course you love your prius that much. I adore my 2002, but if it asked me for that much, its just time to go. Explore this more cost effective solutions first.

2) You are spot on, the wheel bearing would make that sound. Just replace it, but I would advise doing both sides, labour will be similar, as the car is up in the air anyway, might as well do both and have peace of mind.

Let me know what you think about the suggestions.

 

1. I agree that you should replace the inverter coolant pump which is located near the driver's side headlight assembly. You can just make the car IG-ON (where the instrument panel warning lights are on and the car is not READY) as the pump should be running then. If you don't hear the pump and don't see turbulence in the coolant reservoir then it is pretty obvious the pump is bad - or the wiring harness to the pump is not providing 12VDC, which you can verify using a voltmeter.

There is a good chance the inverter is OK since you say that it is working at least part of the time. After the pump is replaced and is providing good cooling, if the inverter continues to produce a fault code then a salvage unit is the way to go.

2. There is a rear beam axle and you may need to get on the ground and view under the car to see it. The wheel bearing is bad, and the price seems reasonable since the entire hub must be replaced.

 

I replace the rear hub due to a noisy wheel bearing.
Hub cost $218 to less that 10 minutes to change.
Remove wheel, then 4 bolts and one plug. Smack it with a hammer to remove to reinstall 4 bolts and a plug and put the wheel back on.
Done.
I only replace one and I put another 80K miles on the car and the other never made any noise.

 

If this were a second car, I'd say keep it. You can park it and make the repairs as needed. But if this is your sole transportation, you are between a rock and a hard place. This is the risk of a used car especially so if you don't do your own work.

As the warranties expire, the car maintenance and up keep falls on the owners ... including the risks from failed parts. Without a spare car and the financial depth to be able to deal with problems, the owner is running a real risks but that is true with any used car. It is pay me now or pay me later.

But as a spare car can also be a tremendous learning opportunity. It provides a test-bed for experiments and learning how things really work ... if you are curious.

Bob Wilson

 

A question and two suggestions for you:

1. How frequently did you replace the inverter coolant over the 119K miles? (hint, it should have been replaced 4 x by now, if you are using the red Toyota Long Life coolant.) If the coolant has not been regularly replaced, no surprise that the cooling channels are clogged.

2. I suggest you take the car for a long drive, say 150 miles or more, and see what happens. If the car can cover that distance without producing warning lights, driving during relatively warm weather, then I think you can declare victory regarding the inverter.

3. If you decide the inverter is bad and want to try a salvage unit, I suggest you buy from one of the salvage yards that at least warrant the unit will be good when it is installed.

 

I'm careful not to suggest that an owner hasn't performed required maintenance until s/he provides information which presents that possibility, as some people might become defensive (i.e., "Do you think I'm stupid, of course I had all required maintenance performed...")

It is certainly possible for the inverter pump to fail even if the coolant had been replaced on schedule. However, knowing that the coolant had not been replaced, there's some likelihood that the narrow aluminum cooling channels within the inverter have become clogged with oxidation.

Once you take the car on a long drive in warm weather, you can see whether in fact the inverter is still working OK or not.

Your first quote above says that you feel burned by buying a hybrid. Well - if the required maintenance was not performed, I'm not sure why you would feel "burned". The only other hybrid problem that you had was a failed traction battery, replaced under warranty, and this is becoming increasingly common as the Classic fleet ages. (My 2001 battery was also replaced under warranty at ~60K miles.)

Nevertheless, you are 100% correct in saying that once the warranty is done, if you have a significant failure and have to depend upon dealer service to install new parts, that poses a big financial liability - a 4-digit repair bill or more. A Prius owner who is not a DIYer and is out of warranty should not be smug. Rather the owner should be nervous and worried.

 

In fact, looking at the significant improvements in the NHW20 (2004-09) model over the NHW11 (2001-03), this would be a good time to 'upgrade.' The NHW20 has:

• lower rolling resistance transmission
• improved traction battery ... major improvements
• excellent interior space

In our case, we took a great opportunity and went with the 2010 knowing we would also see the earliest problems but the technology is such a step forward, the risks are well within our comfort zone.

ADVANTAGES

1. gear-only, low rolling resistance transaxle
2. advanced 1.8L engine with improved oil handling
3. sophisticated heat management and cooled EGR
4. elimination of engine driven accessories
5. high-speed EV (found during fuel exhaustion tests)

RISKS

1. MPG display is off by 5%
2. final fuel exhaustion does not alert the driver the last time

I have no doubt that we'll learn about other, latent defects but the strengths so out-weigh the problems that it has turned out to be a good solution. But at ~$22-30k, it is a non-trivial expense.

GOOD LUCK!

Bob Wilson