P3024 code after reconditioning battery pack

Looking at your odometer at 151k miles, you probably are in a NON-CARB state.....

Nothing else I can add to this thread, sorry.

 

What mileage did you have when you brought it into the dealer in November? I personally would try different dealers to see which one would lend a helping hand. I mean talk about borderline.....

 

If your car is in good running condition, with minimal problems, I know of someone that just had their battery replaced by Toyota 3 months ago in CA. He just totaled his car and is willing to part with the replacement battery (with receipt) for $800. I'm sure he'll probably work with if you show genuine interest in buying the battery.

He's in Anaheim CA

 

Sounds like you have yet another failed battery module which will need to be replaced. At this point you might decide it is better to obtain a new battery or a used battery from a newer model year/lower mileage donor.

 

This "whack-a-mole" situation was mentioned on the Luscious Garage blog concerning battery failure. They opted not to pursue reconditioning and cell swapping as there was a likelihood of additional cell failure not too far down the road. The manufacturing tolerances are apparently quite close on the modules, so the number of miles that you can get from a partial rebuild is still a question.

How did #14 look when you were doing the cycle testing? Perhaps future rebuilders need to be more suspicious of somewhat marginal cells.

 

also when you cycle every cell after the other then you already get a disbalance...
by the time you are at module 28 the first module you cycled is already at a differend soc.

 

This is true when using few chargers, although most use several chargers at a time. And then there is a step which connects all modules together for final balancing. But I would hope that the self discharge rate of the NiMH cells is not so high as to create any concern here. If the rate is that high, then that alone would be sufficient evidence that the cells were close to end of life and not worth further work IMHO, if longevity was being sought.

 

It sounds like you did everything that is recommended. Module 14 is in the middle of the pack, where heat is the highest. It is also a good idea to shuffle the modules so that those which were in the middle are moved out to the edge. However, this ought not be much of a problem in what I assume is presently cool weather conditions. It would be valuable to have the internal resistances readout, as from the VCI, or Torque.

 

Yes, that's right, pairs of modules in 14 blocks. So that would make it at the end of the pack. Cancel my previous, heh. Get the "mini VCI" from eBay, and it will give you everything you want to know about the battery parameters. Runs on an old XP laptop.

Torque is an Android app, q.v. You need to get a bluetooth ODBII adapter to use it.

 

Best software / hardware to recover codes from 2004 Prius? | PriusChat

Look at Britprius's post to see what is possible. Mini VCI for troubleshooting and repairs, Torque for on the road monitoring.

 

Since they are both fairly inexpensive options, I've got them both. I've been using Torque for quite a while, just I just picked up a mini-VCI just to have available.

 

Actually, your test looks good to me. Try the same test on battery blocks 1 and 2 and see how the voltages compare to what you've measured for battery blocks 13 and 14.

The traction battery ECU is supposed to log a DTC when it measures a difference of 0.3V between module pairs.