P0A80 on a 2007 HyCam

Block 9 is the current issue, but block 11 doesn’t look far behind .

If purchasing the Prolong equipment, you’ll be getting into the battery area, so I would take a multimeter and check the voltages of the modules in blocks 9 and 11 and see what you get. Those blocks should have 1 of the 2 modules showing a lower voltage, indicating a bad cell in one of them.

Swap the bad ones out and then recondition the pack.

Good luck and keep us posted .

 

If the module is failed (a bad cell), reconditioning won’t help it .

So all you will do is expend electricity and spend some additional time .

But give it a shot and see what happens .

 

I suggest buying another battery, don't spend the money on prolong

 

Compared the cost of buying the charger, and the pack. Which one makes you more comfortable?

 

O would not recommend trying to put the charger on a module that you already know has failed. It will cause even more damage to the module possibly resulting in damage to other portions of the pack as well. Seriously. Don't do it.

Charger is fine for a battery that has not failed yet.
Not good for batteries with know shorts/failure.

 

The Camry seems to be really hard on the battery, more so than in a Prius. The Prolong system is a band aid to buy extra time, 5 more years is asking for a lot of time.

If you're looking for 5 years, I would definitely save the money from the prolong and buying new battery instead. You don't want to end up buying prolong AND battery when the old one craps out again

 

I'd guess nearly impossible simply because the pack already has bad modules. If you would have started sooner...... maybe and I only say that because you are up north.

I (now) realize camry packs are even more expensive than prius batts so I understand trying to avoid purchasing a new pack. I think finding and installing a newer, used pack and beginning a grid charging routine would get you to 5 years for the lowest costs.

 

What no one here has mentioned yet, is that NOT A SINGLE ONE of the blocks is over 14 volts. The nominal module voltage (at minimal useable charge) is 7.2 volts each, so every block should be at least 14.4 volts.

So there's some potential things going on here. Was the battery severely discharged, maybe due to the engine not starting? Has the car sat for a long, extended period of non-use. Something allowed this battery to discharge way beyond it's normal range.

That being said, I find it totally normal that one or more modules would be discharged to the point of 6.3v or less.

With this in mind, I have had complete battery packs (cores from wrecks that have sat for a year+), that are heavily discharged, but fairly evenly discharged (like this one) where every single module recovered to normal function.

Considering the price of a HyCam battery, I would say trying the Prolong may be a financially reasonable thing to attempt. It can always be resold to gain back most of the cost.

If you have been driving this car normally, and then "a few weeks back" it dropped a P0A80, and in those few short weeks it has self discharged to the current levels, then I would certainly say this battery has seen better days and odds are slim a prolong (or any cycling) would make any significant improvement.

So how long is "a few weeks back"?

 

Tmr-jeap,
That was my next point. Thanks whole pack looks iffy.

Srivenkat, give me a call and we can discuss. There is more details that seem to be missing. Like how/why is everything so low.

 

Sounds good.
Talking on the phone is going to be quicker for me.
I'm hosting a National get-together of Honda Insight owners this weekend. So hopefully we can connect.
I'm happy to help with some input for whatever it's worth.

 

About 3 minutes or so of life discharging at 10 amps, going from 60% SOC to engine start (typically around 42%) isn't horrible, but the battery is showing it's age. It's interesting to see that the graphs back up the earlier symptoms of block 9 being your limiting block. All other blocks are grouped fairly well and consistently track with each other during the discharge. Block 9, on the other hand, tapers off a bit more quickly, but not as badly as some I've seen.

Is it a drivable car ? I believe so, but definitely something to keep track of. Hybrid Assistant will let you do that. Load test it just like you did, about every week or two so you can keep track of that weak block and have a heads up if it's taking a turn for the worse. You have time to make a plan.

After this experience, I'd be a bit more aware of how I managed my AC and SOC prior to parking the car.

 

Actually, the blocks were all around 16 v give or take a bit when you started the discharge. At the end of the discharge, they were showing <14 as minimum observed, but that also includes the load surge when the engine was started.

I don't see anything that's truly alarming on the discharge graph, other than block 9 being your limiting item. Like I said, all the other blocks are tracking with each other pretty well. Block 9, by itself, accounts for about half of the delta v at the end of the discharge.. (highest block-lowest block). If block 9 can get "more healthy" the delta v will tighten up a lot.

Look for the thread titled "just another hv battery thread and experiments". It has a discussion/example of a very similar situation.

 

That battery is probably toast, many Camry batteries wear down like that. Not sure why the car is so hard on them.

The risk of buying modules online is that you'll end up with Camry modules