P0032 - 2011 Prius

The sensor has a heater built into it, and the code you have is about a short being detected in the electrical circuit serving that heater.

The code is not about what the sensor senses, and it wouldn't be about any condition of the catalyst.

 

Troubleshooting steps attached.

 

An inefficient/clogged cat will not set off either P0032 or P0038, so you can hold off on the cat cleaner and save $20.

If you go through the troubleshooting guide in #3, checking the fuses is actually the very first step. They even give you the the electrical diagram, which shows the two fuses involved (for both codes) are EFI MAIN (green) and EFI No. 2 (red). These can be found in the engine compartment fuse box.

Going through the troubleshooting steps sequentially will be even faster and cheaper, as the sequence allows you to eliminate possible trouble areas one by one without guesswork.

Checking the voltage available at the harness is actually Step 2.

It's an issue with the fuses, the wiring harness, the sensors themselves, or the ECM. I wouldn't discount any of them unless I had followed the steps sequentially. Although since you first had only P0032, I would venture that your fuses were fine then. If they had not been, you would also have got P0038 at the same time.

Good call. This is also the last step of the troubleshooting guide.

Unless you get P0420 or your engine overheats, you will not need to doubt the cat.

 

What's being reported for fuel trim?

 

I am having a similar issue. I changed my oil and the pcv which meant taking off the intake manifold and after this I started getting all sorts of problems. I think the issue is in the harness. I have determined all fuses are good, there is 12v at #2 on the D24 connector. I have test continuity across D28 18 and D24 1 and there is good continuity. The one step I can't workout is step 3, C. Where you are supposed to test D28 18 and/or D24 1 to body ground and get some high resistance over 10k. I get no reading at all so many that is my issue? Where should I go from here. I am about to just run my own wire and not dig into the harness. I should mention my code is a p0032 and it comes back immediately everytime which makes me think its a break somewhere.

 

I also tested continuity on D24 pins 1 , 3, and 4 to the ECM and they have good continuity. I'm at a complete loss now as to what the issue could be. Aside from above where I'm getting no reading from D24 1 to body ground and D28 18 to body ground.

 

That test is having you check for shorts between D24-1 (or D28-18) and body ground. Ideally, there should be infinite resistance between either of those connectors and body ground, so I guess you're seeing no reading at all because the true value of resistance is just so far beyond the measurement range the multimeter has been set to.

If everything else checks out, I would ensure the electrical contacts on your connectors are cleaned out, and that the connectors audibly snap into place during reassembly.

 

I have even tried a new o2 sensor and that didnt show any change. I set the multimeter to every resistance setting and could not get a reading and I think it goes up to 2 or 20m. It's weird how this would all happen after doing a pcv swap which involved taking connectors off around the intake manifold to pull that off. But its not intermittent the fault is always theres. I wonder if its possible I need a new pcm? Can these ecms be reprogrammed back to stock with techstream?

 

At this point I know it's an issue with either a ground, the pcm, or maybe the o2 sensor but i already tried replacing it (not with a denso one).The code comes back immediately its not even trying to heat the o2 sensor so it leads me to believe there is an interruption somewhere. Is there a ground I can check?

 

Resurrecting this post from the dead, my 2013 with 130K miles threw a P0032 code about 6 weeks ago. The car had an engine swap for the head gasket in December and was running great with no issues until now. I installed an oil catch can about a week before the P0032 appeared (unclear if related), and would come back immediately upon resetting it. I ended up replacing the front O2 sensor.

The car ran just fine for almost 5 weeks, and then last Saturday P0032 came back. I reset the codes and the CEL stayed off until this morning (about 250 miles of driving had transpired between CEL clearing and its return), where I got both P0032 and P0038. I'm guessing this is suggesting my ECM is on its way out or perhaps I've messed up some connections, so I will disconnect the 12V battery, and clean/reseat the connectors on the ECM this weekend.

I've printed the pdf above, but any other tips? I'm wondering if running the lines up to behind the left headlight for the oil catch can accidentally messed up some electrical connections.

If I need to change it what is the best way to go about it as I assume there might be reprogramming necessary? I don't have TechStream or anything fancy.

TIA.

 

Printing the three PDFs is the optional first step, following their instructions sequentially is the mandatory second

Most of the steps have you checking fuses, and measuring resistance or continuity using a multimeter (a cheap $7 unit will be just fine). In the unlikely scenario that they do not reveal the problem, you'll need to replace the ECM. I can't think of any instructions or steps you might follow that would be faster, cheaper, or easier than the official method.

 

Thanks for your feedback as you make an excellent point. All 3 are now printed and I will follow them step-by-step.

1. I checked the fuses and are fine.
2. I will pull out the old Fluke 87 and check continuity as well as for the voltages outlined in the procedures. Last time I figured the O2 sensor or its wiring might have gotten affected by the engine swap. So I ordered the new O2 before I removed all the windshield wiper tray and crap so I could check the wiring. Since I was there, I just swapped it and the thing seemed fine for 5 weeks.
3. I'm also thinking about what changed before/after the issue post-engine swap. That's why I'm thinking maybe during my installation of the oil catch can (3 months after the engine swap) I snagged something, pulled something, or pinched something. So, I probably want to remove and clean the ECM connector and reseat it along with making sure I didn't create a short by pushing a cable next to chassis or something......