P Lock C2310 Fix Fixed Solved Solution

Another thing I like about this post is that it's a concrete counterexample to the idea that a code reporting a low voltage somewhere is necessarily a reflection on the 12 volt battery.

 

My 2004 Prius with 244,000km (150,000 miles) started to show the red triangle with the parking message. I did connect my Techstream and saw the battery voltage at 0.5 V...I then looked at the white plug in the fuse box but all pins were like new. Using a voltmeter on pin 13 (blue wire) I was reading 0.52 V. Following your advice, I've installed a small wire from the 7.5A P Con Fuse and now everything is back to normal !! Thank You very much OP

 

Thanks for the info. I just had to do this to my 07. I’m just curious if there is a way to trace the issue to fix it under the fuse box.

 

I got the P Lock message and red triangle on my 2004 recently. Added a jumper from P CON MAIN fuse to blue wire in connector and problem was resolved. Thanks for that!

But the ends of the jumper were just pushed into fuse connector and the back of the connector with the blue wire, and I wanted to do something more reliable. When I pulled the jumper out of the connector blue wire pin, half the blue wire terminal came out with it! So I added an inline fuse between the 12V main input in the fuse box to the now-loose end of the blue wire. I moved the 7.5A fuse from P CON MAIN to the new inline holder so the original fuse slot was empty. All good, except, the car would not power up! Paniced a bit, then put another 7.5A fuse in that empty P CON MAIN slot, and now everything powers up and works again.

I had checked the wiring diagrams and it seemed like the P CON MAIN fuse only feeds that bue wire terminal on the connector, but that must not be true if I still need both that fuse AND the new inline fuse. Is there another connection to something else in the fuse box that is powered from the P CON fuse? SHown in the wiring diagram?

And, secondary question - should I consider using 5A or lower fuses now that it seems like the load must now be split between the original fuse and the new inline fuse?

No idea if we could trace the runs under the fuse box, but I suspect the problem is mostly/usually the connector with the blue wire, and I wonder if that terminal pin could be replaced and resolve this issue in some cases.

Thanks,
John

 

This worked for me with a Transmission ecu issue code. It was intermittent and with the same symptoms everything went away like I never had the problem before. My only question is why does this happen? Is there a short somewhere or a loose wire? I know some folks have suggested replacing the wire with a part number but this seems to be enough here.
Thanks again

 

This worked for me as well, many thanks!!
It solved the following issues described at
Red triangle of death won't disappear after new 12V battery | PriusChat

Finally been able to bring the car to the Toyota workshop, they found the following current codes:

• C2310: Transmission control -> 'open or short circuit in battery circuit'
• C1241: ABS/VSC/TRC -> 'low battery positive voltage or abnormally high battery positive voltage'
• C1256: ABS/VSC/TRC -> 'ACCumulator low pressure'

and a historic code that might be relevant:

• B2796: Immobiliser -> 'No communication in immobiliser system'.
• B2799 is found by dr Prius-app -> 'miscommunication between the Engine Immobilizer and the Hybrid Vehicle Control ECU'.

Apart from the red triangle and warning described above, some strange issues occur regularly these days:

1. after shutting down the car and retrieving the key from the system, the car starts up again without the key in the sockety. It is in the ig-off mode then. This only happens once, after pushing down the start/shut button another time it does not happen again.
2. sometimes when the car is not on, all electricity drops, the car does not respond to the key or gives an indication the door is open or anything else. The 12V battery still measures 12.5V, but there is no current in the fusebox. Electricity restores after a couple of minutes without anything happening
3. electricity does not drop during driving, however, each trip, at least once a warning beep sounds without any indicator light on the dashboard coming on.

 

I have a car with a 2310 code and I think the 2300 both related to the actuator and the wife says the car's triangle was coming on and off like it was low on oil when you go around corners that kind of thing so of course this car uses oil I'm checking the oil when I get the car home and then I run a scan with tech and get the 2310 and the 2300 I believe those are correct for the p-lock but we don't have the red triangle or nothing constant The MFD little car is still green everything is running I haven't measured the voltage at the connector near the fuse box I did this on another car and it was very low like the others in the jumper wire made things happen here I'm wondering why it's intermittent and what is causing the voltage drop at this particular connector at the blue wire whatever like what do I need to find.