Any reason my one-man setup wouldn't work for bleeding the ABS? Any of you done this? I do have access to a scan tool that's capable of the procedure. My setup is one that might be familiar to you, idk. It's just a gallon bottle with some brake fluid, and clear tubing with one end submerged in that brake fluid. The other end goes on the bleeder screw, with a portion in the middle of the tube being kept higher than the bleeder screw as well as the bottle. I loosen the bleeder screw and then go press the brake pedal (or pump the pedal if that's what's called for), then come back to check on the tubing. If I see air bubbles in the tube, I go back and press the brake pedal again. And so on, until I see the tube is full of fluid with no bubbles, which is when I would tighten the bleeder screw and move on to the next, keeping an eye on the brake fluid reservoir. I did try it, but I'm still hearing a whoosh when I press the brake pedal, although I haven't taken the car off the jacks to do a test drive yet. I was going to try again, as I may not have bled the stroke simulator properly. If it doesn't work, will try to get someone to help me so I can do a normal two-man bleed setup. Wanted to see if anyone here has any input. As for the reason I'm doing this, I've had wooshing/spongey sound when I press the brake pedal, the brake booster motor runs very frequently, and there is a weird feeling and a woosh sound when slowly braking upon getting down to like 8mph, which is I believe when the regenerative braking hands off completely to the friction brakes? I believe these started occuring after having brake booster issues and subsequently getting my "brake booster assembly" replaced (using "mark" #47210-47310, which is part #47050-47140) at a independent shop. I'm thinking the mechanic may not have bled the ABS properly after doing the replacement, which is why I wanted to try the ABS bleed myself. I've posted about this before, but haven't managed to get through the ABS bleed procedure until just now
Right, you have to do the whole Techstream procedure, every step. There are valves in that actuator assembly that are closed except when the ECU opens them, so without Techstream controlling the ECU for you, it doesn't matter how clever your one-man bleeding routine is, you'll never get the air out from behind those.
Sorry if I wasn't clear; I am using a scan tool (Autel MaxiCheck MX808) to control the bleed procedure. It does the procedure the same way Techstream does, as far as I've seen. My question is regarding the actual pedal depressing/pumping that's involved as part of the instructions when doing the bleed. Will my one-man bleed setup work in regards to that?
I have a telescoping snow/ice brush in the car that I use as a pedal depressor. I stick it between the steering wheel and the brake pedal and telescope it out, then go to the bleeder of the current wheel, open the bleeder, close it again when the flow stops, then go back to the front and release/press the pedal again. It's a little bit slow going, but still a one-man show.
