Oil Change problems couldn't get oil filter Off! Suggestions? Please help!

Type B would be best, IF the slots align with the raised ribs on the cartridge housing.

I'd avoid anything made out of plastic or polymer.

Type C should work as long as the filter housing isn't on super tight.

Question, did you disengage the metal clip before you tried to remove the filter housing? Also, what where you using to remove the housing on your unsuccessful attempts?

 

Shouldn't matter, we're talking about 0.5 mm after all.

 

Well, theoretically, the one with the prongs would be less likely to damage the cartridge housing and able to transfer more torque.

 

It's gonna get real messy if you try and put a new filter back on while almost 4.5 qts are draining.
I'd personally let it drain and start over.
But, you can try and get the new filter seated real fast and salvage some oil if you don't mind getting oil all over you and your cars underbits

 

Actually the oil filter is above the oil pan level. Others have changed the filter and then just topped off a small amount of oil that was lost in the filter.

 

Any of the oil filter tool shown works, 64mm and 64.5mm works on this oil filter housing, as for changing the oil filter and oil, you don't have to drain the oil to replace the oil filter. Just like any other vehicles, the oil filter will have only a little bit of oil in there when you remove it. The oil from the oil pan is just that, it's in the oil pan, it's impossible to drain all your oil from the oil filter, So just remove the oil filter housing and replace the oil filter.

If you can't remove the oil filter housing with the oil filter tool, you can use a breaker bar for more leaverage to remove the over torqued filter housing.

This is a simple solution, just don't over think it, or else it'll make your job harder than it is.

 

I don't think you'll need to drain the new oil. Just replace the filter and top up the oil to the required level on the dip stick. Run for a few minutes to check for leaks and then check the level again.

 

I don't think the prongs do anything but release the clip.
I've used a standard strap type filer wrench. It was difficult but with the use of friction increasing tape it worked. I use type "C".

 

You can toss the clip. It serves no needful purpose as a properly tightened oil housing IS NOT going to come loose without a lot of deliberate effort.

Get a "filter wrench" that's appropriate for the oil housing. It's the only easy way to get it loose. I didn't like it, but I paid for one. They are not generally available in auto parts stores.

Amazon.com: Assenmacher Specialty Tools TOY 640 Oil Filter Socket Wrench for Toyota/Lexus: Automotive

(for 2013 Prius)

 

I'd drain the oil first. There could be some stuff in the bottom of the oil pan.
.
Filter the oil before putting it back in.

 

I'd suspect the face-to-face dimension of the all the filter sockets is somewhere between 64.0 and 64.5; it's likely just the descriptions that are varying. FWIW, I'm using a plain, heavy gauge, stamped steel Honda filter socket, they're the same size. Never had any problems, but then: I'm the only one that's torqued the filter housing, since the car left the factory.

The torque spec, if you ever get it off lol, is 18 ft/lb. The drain bolt is 27 ft/lb. Toyota's composite material drain bolt washer tends to glue on to the oil pan; I'd suggest to back out the bolt a turn or two, then tap the washer loose with a screw driver blade and hammer.

The metal tang at the side of the housing does squat; it will not impede removal of the housing in any way. As mentioned above, the oil filter is well above the pan: when you remove it only about 4 ounces will spill out.

In your shoes, I'd get a decent steel socket, and bite the bullet: buy a spare oil filter housing from Toyota, for just in case. Use a good breaker wrench (wrench with a long handle, say 17"~19"). Wet the housing and dust it with pumice, to ensure the filter socket bites. Alternately, an impact wrench might work, to jar it so fast and hard it doesn't slip.

 

exactly. there is just a minor loss of oil with filter replaced. i went through the same problem before i purchased a proper tool (on ebay) and ended up running the filter for 2 OCIs (20,000 miles). i posted about it here (with a picture). it was pure hwy driving in 3 months, otherwise i would not recommend it.

now, regarding filter, OEM is the best and cheapest, too.

 

bad advice. this will end up contaminating the oil.

 

The OEM Toyota filters are very well made. They are nice. So nice I hated to put oil in them. BTW, they burn up completely, leaving nothing, if you light the used one on fire. Outside, on something fire resistant! This is why Toyota has gone to the cartridge system.

I have done the filter first (worried about if I could get it off so I didn't drain the oil first). As already stated, only the oil in the filter and filter housing came out. DO have a pan under it. While it isn't a lot of oil, it will be messy if you don't have a pan under it.

I suspect the filter housing is just stuck, and will come off easily with the proper socket. Just use a "breaker bar" and slowly increase the torque until it starts to move. Slow and steady ensures the socket won't damage the housing. Do ensure you keep the force on the turning axis. The filter comes with a new "O" ring. I like to use grease on it and the threads of the housing, rather than oil, which may "dry up" between changes. I just tighten the housing until it bottoms on the engine. The "torque" isn't there to seal or hold it in place. The "O" ring does that.

As far as "gunk" in the filter, if it's at the normal change interval, there is probably little in it. These are very clean engines.