Oil Change Indecision

Personally, I think it's fluff.

Many people here swear by synthetic, saying it can't hurt, but I don't think it's worth the extra cash. As for brake adjustment. I think brakes have been self adjusting since, well a long time ago (at least 1990).

Thanks,
Shawn

 

As far as conventional vs synthetic, I think it's a judgement call on your part. I live in a climate where it can dip to -40 in winter.

Under those extremes, I use a synthetic 0W-30 to ensure starting and good warmup protection. Conventional 5W-30 oils turn solid at -30 C.

Under extreme heat, a synthetic resists breaking down and forming deposits. That may be helpful if you live in a severe hot climate.

Do you intend to keep the car forever? If you only intend to keep the car for the duration of the lease/finance period, don't even bother lifting the hood.

The North American Prius are equipped with rear drum brakes. Yes, there is a "self-adjusting" cam that keeps the shoes the proper clearance from the drum. The adjuster only works when you're in reverse.

Once a week, try to get into the following habit: in a safe area, reverse at a brisk walking speed, no more than 10 MPH. Brake firmly. Repeat several times. That should keep the shoes properly adjusted.

Every year or two, it might not be a bad idea to physically inspect the rear shoes for proper clearance and wear. Also check the parking brake cable tension every year or two.

I doubt you have to physically inspect the drum brakes every 5,000 miles. That's a bit extreme.

 

I buy 3 quarts of 0-30 mobil1. I take this to the dealer and tell them to only use this oil. I instruct them to not rotate the tires or change the pressure. They charge 15 dollars on top of the 15 dollars I spend for the oil. They change the oil and filter, check everything and lube the points. I experience no marked uneven wear on my tires. If you do the math, tire rotations at 15 dollars every 5000 miles doesn't make sense. By the time the warranty becomes an issue you will have spent more on rotations than you could recover with your prorated warranty. Do it at 25000 miles just to keep the lug nuts free and have them check the lug nut torque every other oil change. This way you pay less and still get the superior oil. After the warrany expires, stretch the oil changes out to 8000 miles. The engine will never know the difference with this oil. If not for the need to change the filter, you could go a bit longer without problem.

 

In a moderate climate there really is no reason not to go 1 year or more running a good synthetic. A lot of folks I know who run Mobil 1 or Amsoil change the oil filter only and change the oil every other oil change period.