New head gasket replacement video from Gasket Masters

Worth a watch:

 

Here's the older video, covers some things that aren't in the new video:

 

Daughter hinted at the end, that they seem to be doing a LOT of Prius.

 

At 18:50 (of the video in first post) he describes the socket for removal of the head bolts as "size 12 triple-square". The Repair Manual calls for "10 mm bi-hexagon". I believe the latter is correct.

Head bolt removal:




Gasket Masters' recommendation will work, it's close, but not ideal: it's points are a little too "sharp" (90 deg vs 60 deg), and the points a little more protruding (if I'm not mistaken, hard to find info). They do get the sequence right: when removing bolts, start from the outside and work inwards, and when installing from the center, work your way out.


Head bolt install, note sequence is reverse of removal sequence:



Subsequent to above, tighten all bolts further, in the same sequence, first 90 degrees, then a further 45 degrees.

One source for the 10 mm bi-hex:

(AdBlock will hide the above.)

 

I "think" the engine crank was done when everything was still connected, at least all the stuff vital for engine running. I'd think his assistant put foot on brake, pushed start button, and 15 seconds or so later the engine kicked in. A split second or so: he pushed the power button a second time, to kill it.

Maybe less excitement, and if possible: cobble some kinda flat bar with holes in it, space to coincide with the pulley wheel openings. Put bolts through, locked in those pulley holes, then rotate till the end of the flat bar is lodged against the ground. Maybe.

Similar is done to break loose the nut at the end of the drive shaft, flat bar(s) locked on the wheel lugs.

 

Maybe they did, who knows. At any rate, you can. The form-in-place gasket tube instructions recommend to prep the surface I'm sure?

I'm not so sure that's bad. It runs contrary to the Repair Manual instructions, but maybe that instruction is preferred by the engineers and draftsmen, simply because it's less ambiguous, easier to describe*. But other than that, who's to say it's better?

The way he applies it, rhythmically putting dabs, every half-inch or so, is very hard to describe and quantify, but would I think be easy for hand application. Then he smears it, blends the dabs, and if he feels/sees a thin spot applies a little more, then blends again. Again, harder to describe in the Repair Manual, but easy and more controllable in practice?

* I recall in my drafting days, doing a stair layout: stair came off a platform, down a flight, then turned 180 degrees outward, away from the platform above, and went another flight to grade. The engineer (a very bright guy who REALLY came up through the ranks), suggested I turn the stair the other way, doubling back towards the platform above, going under it (there was enough headroom), on the run down to grade.

The reason being, there was nearby road, and the further out the stair jutted, the greater the risk of it getting hit.

I went along with his suggestion, but joked that maybe it'd be better to leave it as-is, just because it was easier to draw, that turning it towards the platform I'd need another plan view, cut lower than the platform.

 

Maybe they also do some head rebuilding. Here he's demo'ing a home-made valve spring release tool:

 

Yeah I've watched @NutzAboutBolts demo of the tool, but I'm always intrigued by something cobbled together, by someone in the business.