New codes for old part deu

Your situation is unfortunate, an example of money going into a rathole.

In any event, since you want to get some return on that investment - with an engine no-start problem, I recommend that you start with the basics. An engine requires ignition spark, fuel, and compression to start. (Checking Prius engine compression requires a special process and access to the Toyota diagnostic laptop.) We can at least check the first two items with the following process:

Replace the iridium spark plugs using the correct NGK or Denso plugs.

Check to ensure that the spark plugs are firing, using Toyota repair manual info for details on the procedure. (This basically requires removing the spark igniter and spark plug from the cylinder head, grounding the spark plug shell, and attempting to start the car while watching the spark plug for visible spark.)

Make sure the air filter is clean and that there are no obstructions in the air flow from the air intake leading to the air cleaner housing, to the air cleaner housing, to the intake manifold.

Remove and clean the mass air flow sensor using MAF cleaner. You must be able to see the two sensing wires while cleaning. Do not use throttle body cleaner for that cleaning purpose.

The engine oil should be 5W-30 viscosity and should not be overfilled.

After you've tried to start the engine a few times, do you smell raw fuel? This is an indication that the fuel pump and fuel injectors are working.

Since you mentioned a TSB, I assume that you have access to TSB EG011-03. If not, please do a search for that, I've uploaded it a few times.

Also note that EG011-03 has been superceded by T-SB-0180-09, which puts greater emphasis on throttle body cleaning and less on replacing the engine ECU.

TSB EG011-03 suggests that, once you've checked the basics, P3101 info code 205 may have a few causes:

1. Check the circuit opening relay. If the relay's switched contacts have abnormal resistance, the fuel pump will receive reduced voltage, hence will not pressurize the fuel rail to the rated amount. Apply 12VDC to the relay coil contacts, thus energizing the relay, and measure resistance of the switched contacts. If that is more than 0.5 ohm after accounting for resistance of the ohmmeter leads, replace the relay.

2. Check fuel line pressure (should be at least 43 psi.) If this is low, yet the results of #1 were good, then you'll have to replace the fuel tank since the fuel pump is located within.

3. If you are sure that the throttle body interior and throttle plate are clean, then check the engine ECU (located behind glove compartment area) part number and replace if the number is below 89661-47054, with a unit purchased from a salvage yard. That might cost you $300 or so.

 

Don't forget to hose the MAF sensor with some CRC MAF cleaner. It would also be unhappy if throttle body cleaner got on it.

 

The current version ECM allows more time for the engine to start, before giving up and logging the DTC P3101/P3191.

I don't have access to the repair manual at this moment. Assuming you do, pls look up how to test the spark igniters.

Regarding the injectors, I recall that the test is to see how much fuel is output over a specified time period, and to evaluate the spray pattern. Again, the repair manual would provide the suggested test.

In case you haven't seen the new T-SB-0180-09, it can be found here:
http://priuschat.com/forums/generat...0-09-copy-sought-p3191-p3101-error-codes.html

 

Were you running the cranking test via Techstream? That spins the engine slower (250 rpm) and keeps wide open throttle. I don't know that it is possible to get sensible results otherwise.

 

Even if you didn't use the approved method to test engine compression, if your method was consistent across the four cylinders, then it appears the engine has a serious problem with cyls 3 and 4 at minimum.

You might add a little squirt of engine oil into the spark plug holes for the four cylinders, then retest to see if the results improve or not. If not, the valves are the problem; if you see improvement then the pistons/rings are the problem.

So - is it time to shop for a salvage engine? Probably ~$500 plus the labor required to install?

 

Since you've removed the four injectors, I suggest that at minimum you do a visual inspection. If the other three look OK, then just replace the #3 injector and see what happens.

If you can get the gasoline engine to start, even if it is not running smoothly, I suggest that you force charge the traction battery so that doesn't become another problem. Shift to D, hold the car stationary by applying the brake pedal, then floor the accelerator pedal. That forces the engine to spin MG1 which will provide power to the inverter to charge the traction battery. Look at the SOC gauge and get the battery up to 3/4 charge (three bars).

 

What you might want to do (which I've used in regular cars) is one or all of the following:

1. Get some Seafoam and do a piston soak. Pour some Seafoam into each cylinder and let it sit over night. The Seafoam will soak into the rings and hopefully loosen them up.... Start up the ICE. You will find that the ICE will be hard to start but once it does, the whole block will know it started. Once started, take the car out for spirited ride until the smoke screen clears. :spy:

2. Get a bottle of Gumout Regane Complete (yellow bottle). This stuff is the same as Chevron's Techron but is typically cheaper. Pour a bottle in your next few fill-ups. Should clear out your fuel system.


Continued on next post (my fourth post and I have some URLs to post for point #3)...

 

3. Go to Sea Foam | How to Use Sea Foam Motor Treatment and do "Cleaning Varnish and Carbon Deposits - Fuel Injected Engines" to clean the injectors. You can also use Berryman's B-12 Chemtool Fuel System Additives. B-12 is much stronger than Seafoam and is cheaper.

All of the products mentioned can be found at Walmart the last time I looked.

 

It's probably worth checking with OKINJECTORS.COM

The refurbish injectors for $22 each.

 

Dirk, this is great stuff. But I am a little confused regarding the injectors. Is the car running, but just rough? Are you getting P0300 P030x codes?

 

After you have tried to start the car, do you smell a very strong odor of raw gasoline in the intake manifold? If yes then you have evidence that the fuel injectors are working.

If not, the repair manual suggests using an oscilloscope to verify the engine ECM is providing the injector voltage pulses. At idle speed, each injector is pulsed for 2 milliseconds, every 0.2 seconds.

If you can measure the voltage pulses then you will have proved the engine ECM is providing the correct signals to the injectors. If not then you have a problem with the engine ECM or the wiring harness.

 

It must trigger a failsafe mode, i.e. the engine runs in spite of multiple cylinder misfires.

Can you get all the bad gas out? There's a way to get the fuel pump to run and just dump gas out at the rail, but I can't remember how off the top of my head.