My first DIY oil change.

As far as I remember the oil drain bolt is supposed to have aluminum washer ( both on my 2005 and 2010 ) I assume c is the same.

- Alex

 

Glad my dealer only charges $20.00 for and oil change for my C and that includes the proper synthetic oil. I haven't checked, but, think the oil and filter would cost more. It's a gimmick, but, I will use to my advantage. Two years with the C and no complaints and no repairs.

 

"While at the store I bought some plastic washers as recommended by the worker there because the oil plug didn't have any kind of washer. I'm not sure it's gonna hold but not leaking any oil now. Do I need that washer or have to replace the screw?"

The plug does have a washer. It may be stuck to the drain plug or to the pan, but its there. Don't add the plastic washers the parts store guy recommended.

 

If you torque an oil plug to the recommended 28 ft. lbs., the nylon or plastic washer will expand and squeeze out of the edges.

Toyota specifies 28 ft. lbs., which is standard for an M12x1.25 bolt, but there is no need to tighten it to that amount.

Since the bolt holds nothing but itself in place, 16 or 18 ft. lbs. is more than enough. It will NOT self loosen, and it will less tension and strain on the threads of the captive nut inside the oil pan.

Like bending a piece of metal back and forth, the thread roots are tensioned and "spring back" when tension is released. The roots will eventually "crack" from the back and forth movement. That's why threads strip and why fasteners are NEVER reused in critical applications in aircraft and spacecraft.

 

the first time is the hardest. there are many write ups here for engine and tranny.

 

^^
My driveway has a shallow slope that works out just right.
You should be using car stands in addition to jack. Just raise them to different heights if needed

Now, about the low car in front: my jack just fits -- perhaps with and inch or two clearance. That is enough to get started.
I'm not sure why you are not able to place the jack.

 

DKTVAV said "I didn't jack my car at all because my two jacks didn't fit, just have to use ramps with a little boost from 2 x 6 woods."

I can use a floor jack to raise either end of my C by driving all 4 tires onto 2 x 6s (with a scrap of 1" in front of each to make the climb easier).

 

i guess you have to look for a jack with lower clearance. kind of redundant when you have two already.

 

I'm using a very ordinary 3 ton jack, not low profile. It fits under the front bumper ok, no problems reaching to the front-center jacking point. Maybe just roll the front tires onto pieces of 2x8, for a bit more lift?

You need a 14 face socket, 64 mm face-to-face is ideal dimension. I use a Honda socket, works fine.

My guess would be you've now got TWO washers on there: the one you added, plus the existing Toyota washer (which tends to glue itself to the underside of drain bolt. Should be ok for now. You can pick up the kosher washer at any Toyota dealership's parts department.

There's a couple of ways I can think of. Maybe the safest is to roll the front onto ramps, then jack up the back (there's a rear-central jacking point) and settle it onto jack stands (at the scissor jack locations. Or you can raise the whole car and settle onto jackstands. I do the latter. I don't like the scissor jack points though, will post a pic of my choices. The car needs to be approximately level, just as long as you've got both ends raised roughly the same amount it's good.

Front and rear centre jacking points (in owners manual):



My alternative jackstand bearing points, alternatives to the scissor jack placement points, stronger, more stable:

 

How long have you been torqueing to 16-18ft-lbs? Assuming no leaks/problems?

Is Toyotas 28ft-lb just based on the bolt dimensions, bolt material,...

With the Gen2 metal filter, Toy says 3/4 turn after rubber gasket makes contact with "seat." 3/4 turn too tight?

 

Forty five years with no leaks. Most all oil plugs on American cars in the 1960's, 1970's and 1980's used nylon washer gaskets.

28 ft. lbs. would have cause them to "extrude out."

The 28 ft. lbs. is based on the torque spec for an M12x1.25 bolt holding parts together under tension. The oil plug needs much less tension, since it just holds itself in place.

 

When I first started changing oil on Hondas in the '80's the drain bolt washers were solid aluminum. To date, any washer I've seen is still virtually all aluminum, with just a skin of more compressible plastic.

I've torqued them to spec., typically in 28~29 ft/lb range. Never seen that thin layer of plastic "squish out".

What I have seen is quite loose drain bolts, at a subsequent oil change, when I torqued it to spec the previous time.

My take: the repeated extreme temperature fluctuates contribute to possible loosening over time, best to stick with recommended torque.

Also, it's too bad toyota makes it near impossible to find that spec.

 

Toyota dealer tech like to tight up the oil filter baz they don't want you to come back for oil leak issue. That makes them look bad. I normally just hand tight oil filer. If I notice oil drops on my drive way, usually due to cold<~>warm weather. I just need to tight it again.

Prius c oil filer are much better than my sienna. I just use
http://i00.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/1396011740/Free-shipping-10-250mm-adjustable-water-pump-grip-font-b-pliers-b-font-font-b-pipe.jpg
And it takes care of it, you don't reuse oil filer so it's no problem.

 

^ I wouldn't advocate "hand tighten" of oil filter, just use the specified torque.

If it's the same configuration as reg Prius that's 18 lb/ft.

FWIW, with the Prius oil filter (regular Prius at least), you could screw the filter in 'till it's hand tight, then unscrew it one or two turns, and it would still seal: the seal is an O-ring on the barrel of the oil filter housing. Once it's within the cylindrical opening on the engine block, it seals, regardless.

That said, if the spec is 18 lb/ft, that's what I do. The torque is mainly to ensure it's secure.

There's a metal tang on the side that supposedly prevent the housing from rattling loose, or something. It appears to me to do nothing. That's a massive amount of description and instruction in the repair manual on this tang, which you can ignore with no consequence.

 

I took a peek under there the other day to see how easy it might be do do my own oil changes (I had been doing them on my 2006 Forester for the pst several years). I thought the Forester was easy. This Prius C looks even easier. I have the added benefit of a parking areas with a drop-off, over which I installed some simple planks. So I can get right under there without much effort and reach everything easily. I still may get a Fumoto valve.

And FWIW, I've always just hand-tightened oil filters on all my vehicles. Snug it up, then give it another 3/4 turn and you should be fine...unless the Prius is that much different than every other vehicle on the road that uses an oil filter.

 

^ The Prius oil filter is somewhat different, in favour of your argument, actually.

A typical oil disposable filter has an end gasket, correct torque is critical to make a good seal. The Prius uses a filter element in a reusable filter housing, and it's sealing gasket is an O-ring pushed over the barrel of the housing. It'll continue to seal even if it's somewhat loose.

Your description "snug plus 3/4 additional turn" is close to what Honda says on their disposable filters, I believe it's actually 4/5. They put markings on the filter, "1" through "5". If it's snug at "3" for example, they say to then turn it more, till it's at the next "2".

They also give a torque value, similar to 18 lb/ft Toyota's recommending for the Prius. Still, if I've got a torque wrench, I'm going to use that. I mean, why not?