My DIY oil change tips

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(onerpm\";p=\"87493)</div>

Hey! What's that supposed to mean?

 

Dan, it means that you're smarter and know more than the rest of us!!!

Back to the oil change--Mechanic friends highly recommend this oil filter wrench available at Autozone and VIP. It fits on the end of a 3/8" ratchet and has three fingers that grip the filter from right underneath it. It works on a cam action: The more you torque on it, the more it torques on the filter. It works best for those filters that seem to be bolted to the engine block. I bought one and it makes for an easy filter change.

The worst part of changing the oil is when you loosen the filter. Oil comes streaming down along the outside of the filter. Put a plastic bag around the filter so that this oil just drips into the bag and not down to your elbow.

I also noticed that original filter was on really tight. Haven't had a filter on this tight other than the days when I used to overdo it myself...

 

That's what I was hoping it would mean.

 

you used 7.3 quarts of oil in that i didnt think it held that much

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Kirk\";p=\"87961)</div>

it doesnt; try reading it like this:
(item #7) 3 quarts...

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(bobc\";p=\"87824)</div>

The oil spilling out when removing the filter is SO annoying. this is one of the few design failures that really bug me about the prius. my 93 accord did not act like this. it may be the way my arm is placed when removing the filter from the prius or something else, but my arm always ends up drenched in oil. i will try to find the gloves and the plastic bag trick, thanks.

i also agree on how tight the filter was. i have never used a filter wrench before and had to go buy one just to get the stock one off. another thing that bugs me is that the filter is surrounded by metal casting. i can't get my hand in there enough to get a good grip and unscrew the filter.

thanks again,
drew

 

Oil & filter change at 5,000 miles.
Tire rotation at 5,000 miles.
I do 'em both at the same time. I've done 8 oil changes now, so I've got it down to a science. Here's my procedure:

I crawl under and pull the oil drain plug (14 mm socket). Then I loosen all wheel nuts (21 mm socket) on the driver side. Then I use a 3.5 ton hydraulic jack, placed just forward of the rear edge of the driver door, and under the chassis. A few strokes and the entire side is lifted (Since the drain plug is toward the passenger side, I believe this helps the oil drain.) I put the 21 mm socket on my cordless drill, remove all wheel nuts, swap the 2 tires, and redo the nuts with the drill. lower the car, tighten the nuts.

Then I plug the drain & pull the filter (that #5 filter-end wrench is great for this, but don't loosen the filter too much because you don't want your wrench and ratchet getting oily, and it can sometimes be difficult to pop the wrench off the filter). A 1 liter pop bottle with the bottom cut off can be useful to unscrew the filter and hold the dripping oil, but I just pull the filter and let it drain into a pan while I rotate the tires on the passenger side using the same jacking method. Then install a new filter & new oil.

I usually blow the dirt off my air filter too. Pull a few clips, pop the top, and a few blasts from an air compressor/blow gun.

It takes me about a half hour to do the whole job. I use a product by Elmer's called Invisible Gloves. Rub it on your hands, let it dry, and oil, grease, or whatever washes off very easily.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Prius Maximus\";p=\"88088)</div>

I appreciate the tips.

Prius Maximus, where exactly are you jacking the Prius? Is this on the "rib" of the frame about 1 foot in from the side?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Prius Maximus\";p=\"88088)</div>

FWIW, I've always heard that it's not a good idea to blow off an air filter.

 

Tony don't worry I've seen the embedded O-Ring on the GM's leak as well so just splurge and replace the gasket.

 

Has anyone had any experience with oil extractors?

The most current catalog, Auto Sport, on page 33 has what they call a "Hand Pump Oil Extractor," where a small plastic tube is run down the car's dipstick tube and the oil is then pumped out .

They say Mercedes-Benz factory technicians are trained to do it that way - so it must be good - right?

OR

Is it just a $64.95 gimmick designed to extract money out of your wallet?

If it does work as described, maybe it would make the jobs of removing the oil plug and filter less messy?

 

I've been using one I got from Griot's Garage for the last couple of years.

I wait about an hour after I get home so the oil is not burning hot but any dispersed solids are still well suspended and the oil is still not too viscous to suck out. I put the used oil in the jug the new oil came in and take it to my local auto supply store for recycling. It sucks the pan right down to the bottom. IMHO, it's the easiest and best way to go.

The service manager at the Audi store I used to go to told me they were setting up to suck oil up through the dipstick tube. It was faster and lessened the risk of stripped threads or other leakage problems.

 

I just checked the Griot's Garage site and see where the price has gone up to $100.

Take a look at Auto Sport Catalog and you will see essentially the same thing I have for a much more realistic price.

 

I just did the 10k mi oil change. Very smooth with three Liters of Mobil 1, except that I attached a Fram "Sure Drain" (M12 • 1.25 thread size, purchased from rockauto.com). Comes complete with a crush washer and makes future oil changes easier. It has a screw-on cap for keeping debris out and a detachable hose to help drain the oil.

Upon arriving home in the afternoon I park the vehicle and drain the oil, allowing the oil to drain overnight (or for an extended period). This minimizes excess oil dripping when the oil filter is unscrewed.

Prius oil changes are identical to our Toyota Echo (same ICE).

 

Frank's probably right.

I think my Prius has always been serviced by dealors. When I finally did it myself, the oil plug gasket was metal with an embedded rubber ring on it. (Not one of the crushable ones.) Perhaps different dealors use different replacement washers? At any rate, the rubber on the gasket was shredding and nearly gone. That's a good sign that these things need to be replaced.

 

I always just punch a small hole in the bottom of the oil filter, usually with a punch or small nail to let the oil completely drain before removing it.
I learned this trick from my brother about 20 years ago.

Charlie

 

azw, it's actually a special gasket that when used properly can be reused for around 10 oil changes. if overtightened, it'll get all torn up like you described. basically, it can indicate when you can stop turning for proper torque. this prevents stripping of drain plugs. smart idea, unfortunately overlooked most times.

careful mechanics are a rarity these days it seems. that's why my husband does all basic maintenance on our cars.

 

Frank:

My 2000 GMC Sierra with Vortec 5.3 V8 had such a plug, with a magnet at the end.

After 3 oil changes, the o-ring was pretty well shot. Fortunately, I have a Big Box Of Random O-Rings at the hobby farm, so it wasn't a big deal.

Jay