Mann-Filter ProVent 100 model 3931070793 OCC

A few months back I did a ton of research and bought everything I thought I needed to move the PCV Valve to a more vertical location and an OCC I thought would be good off of Amazon. When I went to do it, the straight barb I was going put in place of the PCV valve had a much smaller shoulder.. PCV has a 22mm HEX and this Barb was only 17mm HEX. I didn't feel comfortable with that. The OCC while way bigger than I needed to get has one of those brass filters that apparently clog and I've read reports that style of OCC is only 20% efficient.

So I went back to the drawing board. I'm going to install an OEM Toyota PCV valve at the factory location. (I originally bought a replacement PCV that was aftermarket and the barb is slightly smaller than OEM another lesson learned).

I ran across the Mann-Filter Provent 200 that states it's 95% efficient. Now we are talking! However, it is gigantic and has tons of knockoffs on Amazon. But the smallest Provent 100 could work. Saying these are oil catch cans is a little misleading... I would say they are oil and air separators, but I'm going to attach a tube that will hold the oil until I need to empty it. These are specifically designed for diesel engines. The smaller Provent 100 appear to be 80%-85% efficient which sounds pretty amazing to me. There are 4 models to choose from in the Provent 100 line...Basically 2 locations of the inlet and either a bypass valve or a pressure relief valve. I'm going with the one that has the inlet to the right and has a bypass valve (part# 3931070793). I'm not really sure which valve style would work best for our engine so if you know... Let me know.

I found some awesome information and prices from dieselfiltersonline.com
I even called them asking for some information on the 2 valve styles and he said he could send me a 22 page pdf here.... https://www.republic-mfg.com/images/Provent.pdf

Shipped it came to $113.10, which after doing a head gasket job... Seems not too bad and hopefully, I won't have to do that anytime soon.

I'm going to take some pics, post the installation, and outcome here so if it turns out a winner.... Others can use it as a resource.

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Wow, that came fast! Like Amazon Prime fast! Haha

I'm not sure what the filter is made of... It isn't metal. I believe all the knock off 200 series use metal filter material. Somewhere I read the metal isn't as efficient as the name brand filters. I will take a picture of the filter when I figure out what allen key is needed to take it out. Unlike the 200 series that needs no tools to get the filter out, the 100 series had 4 screws that need removed. I believe they are metric because none of my Allen keys are fitting.

Seriously fast shipping though.. Only 2 days from when I ordered it and I did the cheapest shipping rate!

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The schematics to all products are in the PDF I listed in the 1st post.

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I found the correct size of the screws on top are 3mm Allen. Here are some pics of the interior and comparison to the original OCC I was going to install.
I still don't understand where the by-pass is. I see 2 valves, one on the top and one on the side, which I believe come on all series 100 models. Maybe the bypass is considered the bottom where the oil collects and can either go back to the oil pan or in my situation, a line with a ball valve on the end for the oil to be disposed of when I do oil changes.

You can see this Provent is quite shorter than what I was originally putting in, but thicker around.

I'm going to go plan where it's going to go and I'll report back.

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I did a test with the 1/2" drain line to see how much it holds in comparison to this oversized OCC. The drain line would need to be 8.5 feet long to equal the holding volume of this OCC. I would say most OCCs everyone is installing are about half that size... So about 4.25 feet of drain line would equal the holding capacity of the standard OCC.

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I think this is where I'm going to put it... Right over the coolant bottle.

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PCV out line seems to fit nicely here.

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Vacuum side ran from the air intake manifold.

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Okay, here it is all plumbed up. PCV out goes to the Provent intake on the bottom... Vacuum line goes to the top port. It's a tight fit, but I was still able to fill the coolant. The last photo is with the hood closed. It looks like the Provent unit is touching the hood as well as the top line when closed.

I used 5ft of 3/8" hose from the PCV valve to a 3/8" to 3/4" barbed fitting then 3/4" hose to the Provent. From the Provent out to another 3/4" to 3/8" barbed fitting... About 6ft of 3/8" hose to a 90 degree 3/8" to 3/8" barbed fitting and then cut the stock hose in half and attached it to the intake manifold.

The drain port is just over 4ft long. It has about the same capacity as a normal OCC and I'll be able to see when it needs drained just by opening the hood. I ran it down behind the engine and zip tied it just below the transmission drain port.

I ran the engine in maintenance mode last night for 42 min. It was the first time starting the engine since doing a new head gasket, new water pump and thermostat, valve job, and cleaned the ERG cooler, valve, intake manifold, & throttle body. All new coolant in both systems. It's only taken me since early May... So about 2.5 months. Sigh. Good news... No trouble codes came up!

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I was going to move my PCV valve too but I couldn't find anything to put at the stock location. What did you put in its place?

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