Is this normal?

how many miles on each?

 

it doesn't make sense that the battery wouldn't fluctuate. any idea what happened to the car that required the harness?
at 84k, it should run like new, barring an accident, flooding, rodents, abuse and etc.

 

I wouldn't expect them to spin identically, but it looks to me like you have some brake drag or other friction going on in the left wheel. I think that the engine revving when you stopped the right one supports my guess. I'd try keeping it in ready and putting it in neutral so I could feel and compare the resistances.

 

My recommendation for these sorts of possibly-dragging-brake issues is always to (1) confirm there's a drag (you can use a test like this, all four rotors should be stone cold at the end), then (2) if you find a corner (or more than one) that's dragging, next step is some careful detective work to find out why. There are some ideas for that also in that linked post. A lot of ink gets spilled about new pads, new rotors, or greasing the slide pins as a sort of healing ritual, but it's more dependable to just find out why that particular caliper is dragging, and then correct that. Binding can also involve the fitting kit (the little springy clips that hold the ears of the pad, they come with a dry Teflon-like coating from the factory but it doesn't last forever), or rust of the grooves that those clips sit in, squeezing the clips down harder on the pad ears.

One thing that's too easily forgotten is that the whole fact that the caliper piston retracts at all when you release the brakes depends on the elasticity of an internal rubber seal:



The return can be measured (I'm used to seeing about 0.3 mm when good). The key is testing with minimal force, such as puffs from a blow gun. Forces from the braking system itself are too powerful and the effect to be measured will be lost in stretching and squishing.

Needless to say, if there isn't that piston retracting effect from the seal (some remanufactured calipers will test out as nonretracting, right out of the box), nothing else is going to fix the brake drag.

 

no, the tranny fluid is lifetime

 

You have two cars, one that is "good", and one that is problematic. I would suggest that you log some data from both cars under the same driving conditions with Dr Prius and see what if anything is different between them. I would also log data from the engine and hybrid drive ecu's as possible- techstream would be good for that or possibly Torque pro. If the two cars don't accelerate the same then it should reflect that in data somewhere. Then you can figure out a diagnostic direction.

Things that could cause poor performance and mpg are things like: dragging brakes, incorrect wheel alignment, weak HV battery or motor problem, ICE problem like restricted exhaust, low compression, etc.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

If all rotors are cool to the touch, then it seems you've eliminated brake drag as a cause. There was a link above with a technique for measuring caliper piston return, in case you need it for something in the future, but it seems to be moot for present purposes. Onward to other, non-brake things.

 

The 09 wasn't used nearly as much as the 07 and its battery's poor(er) performance may be the result. It would be a lot of work but swapping battery packs between the two would be interesting.

 

Like Foto says poor mileage and your into the gas pedal more to make up for it is usually battery. Which is very very common look at all the battery posts on this site including me.
The fact its so low miles is a big strike against you And your Doc prius agree's with me.

 

Toota ATF is "lifetime" if you define 150k miles as end of life. I tend to keep my cars longer than that so I do drain and refill my Prius ATF every 60k miles.

 

The gen 2 Prius has limited slip differential? That's the only way both tires would spin at the same rate.

 

No fancy differential, but it does have traction control able to apply a brake on the faster-spinning wheel, to much the same effect.