OK, recall that I have 6 Gen1s, and all have been sitting up a year or two. I got the first running smoothly again by replacing an injector and the 12v battery. The HV battery is still generating a 3030 code, so I had to take it out for inspection and repair. Before busting it open, however, I put it into Car #2, the subject of this thread. When I jumped this car with a good battery, the only code I got was also 3030, but this one wouldn't display Ready or attempt to start. After installing the working HV battery and still jumping it, it didn't display Ready until I tried to start it. Then, it displayed Ready and started right up. Not sure if it would have eventually displayed Ready had I waited. I ran rough for a minute and died. I'm assuming the roughness is because I got the replacement injector for Car #1 from this one and it now has the bad injector. I have a new set of injectors on the way. It still only gives me a 3030. When I first brought this car home 2 years ago, I pushed it off the trailer, started it, and recall that it didn't want to run right - not the engine really, but seemingly the transmission. IIRC, it didn't go into gear right or want to go forward or reverse or something. I just parked it and haven't looked at it since. My question: why am I not getting any other codes? Do I need to run it longer? Will some codes not appear until I try to drive it? Or maybe, best case scenario, the HV battery was almost dead then, and that was causing the driveability symptoms, such that the battery is all that's wrong with it? BTW, this car is beautiful, even with 209K miles. Single owner Berkley student who seemingly kept it clean as a whistle.
Unless y'all can think of any tests I can do right now, I may take that battery back out and put it in Car #3, which doesn't try to start either. It's a flood car giving me error code 1636 and one other (I forget right now, see that thread posted a couple of days ago). Or not, if I ever get a response on that thread that makes me think it still won't do anything, even with a battery (probably need to replace ECM and ECU). Instead, I may tear into the non-working battery that came out of this one first to see if it's repairable, then use it to test the other car.
It occurs to me that you should buy my Prolong Intelligent discharger, grid charger, and my new in bag wiring harness. It's for gen 1 and works well. $400 shipped. How are you pulling codes? I have a Dell Win XP computer with miniVCI and techstream installed and working well. Buy my Prolong system and I'll throw it in for an extra $50 shipped.
Well, I just came back here to read old articles so I can figure out exactly what I do need. Electricity is like a foreign language and I'm one of those people who can't seem to pick up foreign languages. Both of these batteries are giving 3030 codes, one still starts the car and the other doesn't. For the one that's working, I'm thinking it probably just needs a new bus bar (it charged right up and holds its charge overnight/2 days - which is all it was in before I took it out for this car), which, if I'm understanding correctly, doesn't really require any special tools to replace. This Car 2, I don't know. What tools do I need to diagnose? I have to inspect the bus bar for sure. And, I think I would next test the voltage on each battery pack - or is that where I need Techstream? My ScanGuage2 has Xcommands for monitoring battery PIDs, maybe that will tell me if the individual modules are good? I have a battery in my parts car that I've not even looked at, but it was flooded, probably above the battery, so I don't know is that would have ruined all the modules or if some might still be good enough to re-use in case all that's wrong with one of these others is a few bad modules. Then, I have Car 3 - another potential parts car - it was flooded, but probably not over the battery. I've read of owners taking a discharged battery and placing it in another car to charge it up. Not sure how that's possible, but I have cars here to do that with. I appreciate your offer, and may consider it. However, if I only need one battery, I might consider just buying a rebuilt from someone. If your equipment would mean I could salvage two or more batteries, I might spend that much. I see Ebay pitching chargers at me when I looked up batteries. They were only $50. Does that mean I'd have to charge modules one at a time vs yours doing all of them at once?
Do you wanna just sell the PC and software and dongle? I'm trying to buy that right now so I can diagnose the batteries.
At this time I prefer to sell it as a package deal. I'm not making any money on this, just trying to recover some spent on tools. To answer your question, a Prolong system won't reclaim bad modules, but it will restore and balance good ones on the HV battery. Like car batteries with bad cells, HV module that are dead are gone for good. I've had a bunch of bad motorcycle batteries lately. One battery was a puzzle. After 24 hours charging at 3 amps, it would reach a bit over 12v but then fall back to 11.2 or so. One bad cell. Time to recycle.
Cool. I'll go ahead and order the dongle and software then. Was about to when I recalled your offer. Is that software easier to install on XP? I run W7 now, but from reading, it sounds like there's a little bit of a work around to install on this.
