Hybrid Battery Warranty + Long Term Parking

The manual suggests running it every several months for 30 minutes or 10 miles if it is being stored for a long time. You should be able to "force charge" it (feel free to Google that, if you don't know how); I'd suggest aiming for about the normal 6 bars of battery, and once you have that, you can turn it off, so it really won't take 30 minutes. It'd probably also be a good idea to change the oil before you start driving it regularly again. And you may want to either connect it to a battery tender (to keep the 12V battery from discharging), or disconnect the 12V battery while it's stored.

That said, I'm just some schmuck on the internet who doesn't really know much, so take that advice with a grain of salt.

 

The "schmuck on the internet" above has it exactly correct. You will have to protect the 12V battery and you will have to actually run the car at least every four months, I think it says in the owners manual. I would recommend making sure the traction battery has charged up again before shutting it off. You can see the charge indication on the dash display.

Pearl S has gone through five cycles of no use for 5 or so months each with no problems. I use a "Battery Tender" to look after the 12V battery. I don't bother messing with the oil or other fluids, other than on the normal change intervals. Engine coolant will deteriorate over time, not necessarily use, so change that and the inverter coolant at the specified intervals. Make sure the tires are inflated correctly and check them at least once a year, if you're not driving the vehicle. I always like to park the car with a full tank of fuel. The fuel WILL deteriorate over a two year period, so you really must drive the car to burn it off. I'm not sure fuel stabilizer will work over that long a period.

If it was me, I would sell the vehicle and buy another one when you're back to driving again.

 

yes, the warranty does not exclude storage, so you'll be fine in that respect, except that, 8 years is only 2 years away, so if your car starts, any damage done might happen after warranty coverage ends.
that being said though, i would continue to gather info about long term storage. if you can't have someone start it up regularly, it would be good to try and mitigate damage as much as possible.
it would be a good idea do be proactive in protecting all the systems and parts as much as possible. certainly, gasoline is a major concern.

 

Unless you can get it out and drive it at least every 90 days AND get fresh gas in it twice a year........this is a VERY BAD idea.

Sell it and buy another 2 years later. Honestly. SERIOUSLY.

BAD PLAN.

 

I agree Toyota has been fantastic re: HV battery warranty.
I don't think we have heard a single USA case where Toyota has declined to cover battery under warranty for any owner-abuse reason.

 

Maybe you should rent it out on Turo. Your car gets driven periodically (heck, you could even only rent it out every 2 months or so if you wanted), and you get paid!

 

We sell our chargers to snow birds all the time. Let the car sit as long as desired, then when you are ready to use the car again simply charge the hybrid battery for 24 hours before starting the car. This will restore the pack to a full state of charge and equalize all of the cells so they are ready for the high current charge/discharge delivered by the vehicle.

 

can you tell me what you would recommend for my 2011 with 108,000 miles hybrid battery?

 

how long does it sit?

 

almost never

 

almost never

 

i don't think you need to do anything, but preventive maintenance may prove worthwhile, though i doubt there is reliable data.
with a 2011, i'd be more concerned about the engine.

 

ok great, i change the oil every 3000-4000 miles

 

the engine problems stem from clogged egr and intake manifold, leading to oil burning and head gasket failure.
it hasn't happened to everyone though, and no one is certain of the cause.

 

One thing to think about...fresh air circulation through the cabin to deal with any dampness. The last thing you want to do is return months later and discover you have a huge MOLD problem.

 

In 6 years, you've only driven 60K km. You don't drive enough to warrant the additional expense of owning a hybrid -- particularly one that will be 8 years old and out of warrantee when you take it out of storage.

Sell it now, put the money in a 2 year CD, or use the money to pay for your education/living expenses while you're in school. When you're done with school, reassess your driving needs. If you'll continue to drive only 10K km/year, don't buy another hybrid.

 

I didn't read this whole thread so if it duplicates, sorry. I have stored vehicles for long periods of time. Unless its a classic or you got a really good deal I'd also consider selling but if you store: Fill your gas tank with the highest octane gas you can buy. Make certain it is very full. Some would suggest using Stabil. I use that for lawn mowers, snow blowers and the like but not cars or motorcycles. If you can jack the car, put jack stands ahead of the rear tires and behind the front tires. The tires don't have to be in the air, just most of the weight off them. They may develop flat spots that will disappear after driving them hot. Then use a battery tender and leave your doors unlocked and if possible windows cracked. If you think mice will get into your engine compartment spread out some moth balls. After storage change the oil as soon as possible.

 

+1 to the above responses to OP.
I happen to be a "worst case scenario" kind of guy (a pill to live with but far safer as a pilot) , but consider that if it is hot and humid for that long , the engine might rust internally and in worse case, lock up completely. I had that happen to motorcycles.

 

Or, I would just drive it out to school. Think, how much cooler you might be..........
Better for you and the car!