How to Replace Gen II Prius Spark Plugs and PCV Valve

Thank you so much! does anybody have a video of at least part of this?

 

Thank-you for posting this! I am at 111,000 miles and will be needing to do both of these procedures soon. A video would be great! Thanks again for posting this.

My local Toyota dealer just quoted me $108.00 for spark plug replacement.

 

Hi Zedhomme,

Thanks for the guide!

When you say "USE SOCKET WITH RUBBER-LINED 16MM PLUG SOCKET TO REMOVE AND INSTALL PLUGS TO
AVOID BREAKING CERAMIC.", do you mean just use a normal plug socket adapter and add rubber? Like a bike tire tube, maybe? You should include those bits in your list of tools required.

 

Chris, the rubber lining (washer) is included as a standard part of most spark plug sockets. The main purpose of this rubber insert is to hold the spark plug firmly and allow it to be easily inserted or removed (from the spark plug well).

BTW. A 5/8" spark plug socket will fit just as well.

 

A further purpose of the insert is that it keeps the deep socket properly aligned with the spark plug to avoid damage to the plug. If you use a 5/8" or 16 mm deep socket without a rubber insert, it is easy to place the socket so that the plug is not exactly coaxial within, which will result in stress on the ceramic tail and some likelihood that the tail will break off.

 

Ah, cool. I was confused because the plug sockets I was looking at on Amazon never mentioned rubber, but maybe it's just assumed, or not all have it. This one does mention rubber. This one says it has a "rubber retaining ring" while this one says "rubber insert". I wonder if they're the same thing? "Rubber insert" sounds more promising.

 

You aren't supposed to use anti-seize with plated plugs, like iridium. It's not necessary because the aluminum doesn't contact the steel, and the anti-seize acts as a lubricant allowing for people to over-torque the plugs. Generally all cars use iridium today, and you won't see any anti-seize on the plugs from the factory.

 

I'm considering buying this X-Beam design 19mm wrench for this job due to it's flat surface area in which to apply more pressure. I'm concerned though that this design might interfere with something during the plug change. Is there plenty of room for the X-Beam wrench or should I stick with the regular design? Thanks.

 

The purpose of a 19 mm wrench is to remove the PCV valve. This adds no value regarding the spark plug change.

 

I know that. If you look at the two different wrench designs, the x-beam design has a wider shank profile when turning than the standard design and could interfere if there isn't enough room for it. I want to know if there's enough room, in whatever turning angle is available, to use the x-beam design to remove the PCV valve.

 

Thank you for the write up guys. Got my plugs done in under an hour taking my sweet time I wasn't prepared for how dirty the throttle body was and will go back in for a go a cleaning it up. I opted not to change the PCV this go around, as this Prius hasn't shown any signs or symptoms of ailment yet!

My next project will be the coolant and possibly 12v, though I'll have to check its myToyota service record as it was babied and lots of maintenance was done prior to needing it.

Here is a shot if the plugs being pulled at 124k. They look incredible for that many miles, mostly in 100° AZ weather!

 

As usual, they look perfect still.

 

Those old plugs look so good, I'm tempted to ask you to send them to me............

 

Ha!

I have a concern though. After driving it the past couple days, it doesn't seem as zippy :/

I checked the gap and it looked okay, though I might have been look at it wrong (between .040-.050 I believe, using the old coin measurer) and the igniter coil didn't really click when pushed in. I couldn't find my torque wrench so I hand tightened. I'm wondering if any if these concerns could be causing the perceived loss of power?

 

Hand tight????? That's not near tight enough. You need to find a torque wrench. I think the gap is supposed to be 1.0 mm (check on that though).

 

^ Just a couple of thoughts:

A lot of the high end plugs warn against adjusting gap. They're set at time of manufacture, and are not adjustable. Check on website what your's say.

This is one time I would have hunted high and low till I found the torque wrench. They're typically pretty low torque values specd. 15~20 foot pounds. A smaller torque wrench with that range is best.

 

Sorry, hand tighten plus 1/4-1/2 turn more for snug fit.

 

Hand tightening doesn't always seat the plug properly. Sometimes it's still not tight even if you give it an additional 1/4 or 1/2 turn. Did any of them feel loose after the 1/2 turn? Like you can give it another 1/2 turn without effort? When I don't have a torque wrench handy, I normally seat it using a wrench and then tighten it an additional 1/4 turn.