How to Change the Oil on your Prius with Pictures

There's also this PDF that's been around for a while (not to minimize your effort ):

http://john1701a.com/prius/documents/Prius...hanging-Oil.pdf

 

What do you do with your old filters?

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(morpheusx @ Oct 28 2007, 08:49 PM) [snapback]531744[/snapback]</div>

I think that it is recommended that you replace the washer with every oil change. This is like a $0.25 item, even from Toyota.

 

You can re-use the washer a time or two, but note that they're
supposed to be one-shot deformable crush washers and eventually
reach the end of their crushability and won't seal quite the same
way anymore. If the bolt and pan hole surfaces are nice and flat,
you can probably get away with this a few times.
.
It's good to get back under there a couple of days after the change
and make sure the drain bolt is still torqued. It tends to loosen
up a little as the washer thermal-cycles and settles.
.
I use the NAPA gold 1394 [nee Wix], convenient because there's a
NAPA right down the street.
.
_H*

 

I just put the same Wix filter in our Camry... it takes the same size filter as the Prius, but I didn't know that until after I bought a filter for each car at 2 different stores... long story...

ANYWAY... the filter screws in from above in the Camry, and I was having trouble getting the Wix filter to thread properly, I took a closer look at the threads inside the filter and it looked like it was double-threaded. Meaning, the same threading was cut twice, but once it was a little shallow, and the shallow thread was the one that was catching.

SO... I was able to screw it on by pulling up gently on the filter as I screwed it down so it would catch the first set of threads, not the second. It went on nice and tight after that, and didn't seem to have any play, and hasn't shown any signs of looseness or leaks.

HOWEVER... being the paranoid type, now I'm wondering if that sounds dangerous and I should replace it... Or if I should just ignore it because if it leaks, the oil will leak onto the block and create a nice cloud of smoke to warn me before the engine seizes

 

if that filter had 2 sets of threads, i'd get rid of it.

 

The only thing I would add is to fill up the filter about 3/4 full before threading it on the engine. I learned that years ago that it is a good thing to have oil in the filter before you re-start the engine. Replacing the filter is really a "by Brialle" experience since you can't see anything with the car being so low, and the plastic undertray in the way.

 

Very nice description and set of pictures. I'm not crazy about letting my Dealer do this and am thinking of doing it myself from now on. Big help; Thanks.

 

It is best to just do it yourself.

I cant quite change the oil without jacking it up, but I hate the hassle of jacking up, intalling jack stands, etc. So, I just drive up on a couple 2x4s. That inch and a half is just enough for me to have enough clearance to change the oil.

As far as the crush washers. I had a Mitsubishi with the original crush washer and 175k miles. I changed the oil myself every time. The oil plug never leaked a drop. I just never got around to purchasing a new one.

 

It's a good idea to have a washer in your tool box just in case.

I wouldn't worry about the filter that seemed to have a double thread, if it went on tight it will be fine.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(morpheusx @ Nov 3 2007, 09:56 AM) [snapback]534284[/snapback]</div>

Rhino ramps are so worth it.

 

Want that free 2 inches the easy way? Haul out the scissor jack and
crank the *driver's* side of the car up a little ways. Not with the
wheel off the ground, just unweight the suspension a little. It
gives you all the room you need and tilts the oil pan a little toward
the drain hole, helping get a more complete empty as well.
.
_H*

 

The term "crush washer" is outdated. You're not supposed to tighten them so tight that they deform. My BMW motorcycle has them on all the fluid drain plugs and they never crush.

 

That's true, a crush washer is made from thin material rolled into a donut which does crush down when you tighten the plug like a sparkplug washer. The washer on Toyota sump drain plugs is solid aluminium or gasket card and distorts minimallly to conform to any unevenness in the surface of the plug or sump.

 

Where I live (Sacramento County, CA) I can take the used filters to the local refuse transfer station (aka Garbage Dump). They have a Recycling facility that will take Used Oil and ATF, Used Oil Filters, Batteries, Old Paint, Pesticides, etc. I think that some of the auto parts stores that accept oil will accept the filters also. I wouldn't throw them in the regular trash if at all possible.

 

For my part, I'd like to get some suitable ramps to have plenty of room to work under the car.

Before I got my 2005 Prius I had an 1986 Chevy Nova for which I bought and used ramps, but I found that they could not be used with the Prius because they are too steep; the front bumper of the Prius contacts the ramps before the wheels do.

Does anyone know where one can get ramps that are suitable for a Prius? I just need enough of a rise to be able to get my hydraulic jack under the car to reach the point that the manual recommends that one use for a hydraulic jack. My hydraulic jack has too high a profile to be able to get it under the motor unless the car is raised a bit.