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How far can I drive with the ABS/Brake lights on?

Discussion in 'Generation 1 Prius Discussion' started by ronlewis, Aug 28, 2024.

  1. ronlewis

    ronlewis Active Member

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    I have a car in Denver I'd like to drive 1000m to Houston. Runs/drives just fine. I powerbraked it to charge up the HV battery, so pretty sure it has standard brakes. What are the chances it'd make it? I drove another car home from Atlanta, and it had battery issues along the way. probably unrelated, but maybe a regenerative braking issue? Anything about ABS failure make the battery discharge?
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Depends on why they're on. Why are they on?
     
  3. ronlewis

    ronlewis Active Member

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    LOL, I knew someone would ask that. IDK. Usual doofus mode - got distracted, got rushed, and left without getting codes. Then, meant to go back, but got tired of the driving and traffic. Which codes would make it unsafe to drive? I'm thinking if I see no signs of leakage, reservoir is full,I hear the pump turn on and then off with the key on, and the standard brakes seem to work as usual - it's OK to drive home. Kinda like if the fluid controls all seem to be working, I can drive it.
     
  4. MAX2

    MAX2 Member

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    Malfunctions of the brake system and ABS without diagnostics are not a very good reason to go out on the road.
    Consider that you may not have time to brake urgently, you will cause harm to yourself and other road users.
    First, it is worth understanding what is the cause of the malfunction.
     
  5. ronlewis

    ronlewis Active Member

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    Well, thank you, Max. If I didn't have a GF, you'd make a great penpal. So far, she has me wearing different shirts, more perfume, doctor visits, less weed/a little more alcohol, and long briefs instead of boxers. I miss my dog.

    But, yeah, I've given up on such thrill-seeking. Urgent braking just costs me a new Depends, so I drive slow - just got 48mpg out of green Gen1 to CO and back. And there's not much harm left in me, taking or giving, and they always come together, so I'm avoiding that too. Same with dairy products, and I need more fiber. Nah, the GF is about as thrilling as it gets for me, and she's my age - say no more.

    As for the car, it seems I'm experiencing what you might call a "flashback" on Rock 3. I'm skitzing on the dozens of other trips I've made to pick up cars that I didn't have the codes for. True, it gets all wavy, with colors blending, and huge, identical parts floating across my vision, the guy with kaleidoscope eyes of Prii, but as I float along, I see the similarities, my 30+ girls all have the same marmalade eyes.

    Then, it stops. It's just another plastecene Prius. So, I'll scan the codes, and figure out whether to drive it, and ask strangers online for advice. And, listen for the chirps of the tangerine tree frogs. Then do whatever the Gw/TME tells me to do. She's rarely wrong.
     
  6. ronlewis

    ronlewis Active Member

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    Backdate: This is an auction car with a rear end collision. Minor damage, nothing structural. Highly likely assumption that the brake alerts weren't on before the wreck. Insurance co. took it straight to auction. Brake issue caused by wreck although no physical damage is apparent to any wheel.

    As I read through the service manual, I'd guess the problem is with a speed sensor(s) or wiring. I have two other cars with the same symptoms - ABS lights after minor, seemingly unrelated collision. One of those cars even has a DTC pointing to the sensor near the quarter panel collision. I expect that none of the standard brake components are a problem. I drove that other car for many miles with the ABS light on and the brakes worked just fine. I'm not worried about braking urgently - I did it that way for 50 years just fine.

    I'm just worried that it'll drain the battery somehow. That's the issue I had getting the other car back from Atlanta. I forget whether I ultimately decided they were one problem and not two.

    Logically, there's no reason to think the fluid lines and controls should have any issues from the wreckage observed. Powerbraking the car to charge up the battery is strong evidence they are fine, but when I go back, I'll check fluid levels and look for leakage. And, yeah, check for codes. Always good to know what I'm looking for before I go. I hope it's an electrical code, and not a fluid control code, and I hope it doesn't discharge the battery, or if it does, I can pull a relay or disconnect the harness to prevent the drain so I can make it home where I can work on it.
     
  7. ronlewis

    ronlewis Active Member

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    Update: my skepticism paid off. Back to Denver, started up the car and both brake CELs are still lit. No leaks. Brake fluid level is good. Parking brake functional and doesn't change the CEL. Get in the car to drive around the parking lot to see if the brakes work, and after about 100' the CELs turn off. Drive the car to Houston, everything works, runs very smooth, CELs never return, no codes when scanned. Nice clean car. Should have it out of the paint shop early next week.

    My guess is that the car threw the brake codes at some point because the 12v battery was low. The tow truck drove it off at delivery, but I didn't see whether he jumped it first. When I got back to it this week, I had to jump it, but it drove fine the rest of the way to Houston - albeit that's mostly hours of highway driving. I have gotten a P0171 since I got back, with some misfiring at cold idle. I'm going to do a standard maintenance on it and see if that clears up.
     
    #7 ronlewis, Sep 13, 2024
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2024
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