Hit 80,000 miles. Now what?

nothing. the usual suspects, oil and filter, rotate tyres, inspect and lube brakes, check fluid levels. air filters coming at 90k, first major service at 120k. have you changed the tranny fluid?

 

Have you done the thorough brake inspection? Take the calipers off, inspect the brake pads, lube the pins? You would want the silicone grease for the caliper pins and I like to put silver antiseize on the points where the brake pads contact the calipers and the bracket and between the two shims.

 

id get a 12v battery

 

Go through the videos in the first post in this thread:

Nutz About Bolts Prius Maintenance Videos | PriusChat

Do them all, one at a time, between now and 100,000 miles. I have. Here's the list:

Cabin air filter replacement
Engine air filter replacement
Tire rotation
Oil change & maintenance light reset
Transmission drain and refill
Engine coolant drain and refill
Inverter coolant drain and refill
Spark plugs replacement (HD)
Throttle body cleaning
PCV valve replacement
EGR pipe cleaning
Brake flush
Front caliper sliding pins - lubing
Rear brakes sliding pins cleaning
Cleaning the HV battery fan

Don't freak out over the list: Do this stuff over the course of the next 12 to 18 months. Here are my observations, having done this:

1) Use only the Toyota brand fluids for the transmission oil and coolant
2) For the tranny oil change, you need to jack the car, but have it level. One way is to tape a bubble level to your car door before you raise it, so you'll know if your front and rear are reasonably level (doesn't need to be perfect).
3) When you re-install rear brake pads on a Prius, the backing plate of the inboard brake pads have a post that sticks out. This post needs to fit inside a notch that's cut into the brake piston. If you haven't touched the brake piston, it should be fine. We can get you a photo or drawing if this explanation doesn't make sense.
4) Spark plug change is ridiculous effort just for plugs, but not difficult. You have to remove the entire windshield cowling and wiper motor assembly to access the plugs. But you also get to clean out your cabin's fresh air intake, which is a big plus.
5) PCV Valve replacement is the worst of the tasks, but it doesn't take long.

Nowadays, there are several of us who believe that the next step in maintenance is to remove the EGR and EGR cooler, and thoroughly clean them. Then remove the intake manifold, and clean in. Lastly, install an oil catch can between the PCV valve and intake manifold.

We try to have regular maintenance meet-ups here in the San Francisco Bay Area, and we do this stuff together in someone's well-stocked garage. Maybe you can do these where you live as well. Having experienced help makes a huge difference.

 

80K miles? Unfortunately the first thing that pops into my mind is the $#@!* EGR system clogging. Might still be early, or not. You can start by checking the connector pipe, @NutzAboutBolts has a video pinned in the maintenance sub-forum. Read up, lots of info.

There is a US warranty extension, ditto now in Canada. May or may not be useful, depending on what they intend to do, how thorough they are.

 

I'd get a Battery Minder charger/desulfinator first.

 

By the way... it looks like a lot of work I posted, but I want to reiterate that those items are needed mostly at 100,000 and 120,000 miles. So you have plenty of time to do them. Besides the obvious engine oil changes, I'd do the tranny change and brake pin lubrication first. The engine air filter should have been changed at 60,000 miles, if you haven't already change that and the cabin filter (really easy, tool-less jobs)

 

You ever get your oil filter cap off, or the wrench separate from the housing?

 

Nope. I ordered the replacement parts to install a standard oil filter in place of the cartridge thing.

 

Standard oil filter requires the same socket, if I'm not mistaken. Well at least you can use extremes measure on it, if require, since it's disposable.

 

Unfortunately, my oil filter is really, really stuck. So I'm going to pull off the filter housing from the engine, and I may as well replace it with a housing that holds a standard oil filter. That's all. It's not related to vehicle maintenance.

 

I can't recall the story: but was it the dealership that put it on last? How about get one more oil change through them, and explain the situation, ask them to ensure it's torqued to spec. during reinstall, maybe see if you can be present? Then just carry on doing DIY, ensure you've got a snug fitting good quality socket.

 

I already ordered the part and I'll get under the car and figure out if I can easily access it. If so, I'll install it and then I won't deal with that plastic demon anymore.

 

Sold my 2014 to my daughter. Looks like the 80k scheduled maintenance is going to cost $350. Any way around this for the non handy? Also where in DFW can we get the EGR cleaned?

 

Sounds like they're padding the schedule?

Ask them to do the Toyota spec'd maintenance (basically an oil change and tire rotation), that should be $50~100 USD tops, and if you have solar option check condition of filter yourself.