Help Please! Prius Code P0AA6, Dr. Prius Battery Test and Battery Warranty

Unfortunately, green bean is not a reputable company, although some have had limited success with their batteries.
And also, P0AA6 is a difficult code, and you need tech stream to get the sub code and the manual to find the trouble shooting tree

 

P0AA6 is about one kind of problem, and the "suspected problem blocks" as reported in Dr. Prius are a different kind of problem.

Dr. Prius is an app largely tailored for obsessing about the charge/discharge capacities of the blocks in the battery. That is one kind of problem a battery can have, and Dr. Prius is made for spotting that.

Although Dr. Prius is also able to show you any trouble code the battery is reporting, and so it will show you a P0AA6 if the battery's reporting that, the app doesn't really offer a lot beyond that for dealing with that kind of issue. P0AA6 is a case of the high-voltage insulation somewhere in the car (possibly, not necessarily, in the battery) not quite doing its job, and that's just a different kind of issue than block charge/discharge capacities, and calls for its own kind of troubleshooting.

The P0AA6 INF codes really are the quickest way to find out if the car thinks the issue is in the battery or someplace else.

 

Sounds like it's time for a lawer!

 

The lawyer will only take the case if they think they can win.
You're loosing time, pain, heartache, suffering, etc.
The green people give a warranty, make they abide by it.
Or you can get a refund and your old pack back so you can buy a new one.

There are some things that are not worth buying used.

 

There are a lot of things you might see often enough reading through these forums, but you have to be careful how representative they are of reality.

What the car does with the P0AA6 reporting is algorithmic like clockwork. At the first sign of current leakage, it will set P0AA6 with subcode 526 only.

That acts as a note-to-self where the next time you get in the car and turn it on, it sees the P0AA6/526 and it goes through a little dance watching for the leakage while it powers up in sequence, and that gives it the information to add a 611, 612, 613, or 614 subcode. (In Gen 1, you'd have to do that little dance manually, looking for the code first in IG ON, then in READY but neutral, and then when starting and driving. There were threads about how to do it. Later gens just essentially do that for you and set a subcode. You can also still do it yourself.)

I don't think that clockwork algorithm really very often fails to come up with the second code.

On the other hand, that will—again like clockwork—be what seems to happen for someone who keeps clearing the code at the 526 stage.

$700 for the diagnostic seems steep. What are the hourly shop rates there? To read this code and subcodes yourself, all you need is a scan tool that can read them, and you've got a bunch of choices of those for less money than that. And the scan tool, you get to keep, and it'll be useful on your future car issues too.

 

I can certainly understand your concerns and exasperation. However, an insulation error code means that there has been a breakdown of the insulation between the high voltage system and the rest of the automobile.
For your purposes, it is essential to know when this insulation breach occurred. This is complicated by the fact that you have not personally driven the car as a primary driver.
I would begin to ask some basic questions to try to determine whether this issue is actually related to the battery or the high voltage circuitry itself. My guess is that it is battery related. But, I could not take that to court.
Was the car serviced shortly before the battery failure? For example, if the AC unit has been repaired using the improper compressor oil, such an error could appear. You need to analyze the history of repairs before assuming that the issue is only battery related.

 

My experience matches what Chapman is splaining. i had my charger connected to HV battery and get this code and sub codes. It is a possible short circuit. Sounds like Greenbean did you no favors with the battery repairs.

 

In this whole thread, no one has seen the specific 611–614 INF code yet.

So nobody knows yet whether even the original problem had anything to do with the battery before the battery was changed, or it's just been a P0AA6 somewhere else in the car all along.

 

What do these codes say, is there a referance somewhere? Just saying that I would check the battery, especially since it is a problem and high voltage leakage (potential shock hazard) is a serious concern.

 

A quick search can find you lots of posts with this diagram:



That one is for a Gen 2, but the only real difference in Gen 3 is that the 611 area is smaller in Gen 3, only inside the A/C compressor itself; in Gen 3, a leak in the cabling to the A/C compressor would show as 614, not 611.

If your code turns out to be 612, the battery is definitely the right place to look. If the code is one of the others, the problem is usually solved faster by looking where the leak is.

 

Thanks for your patience. My head is hurting from all the new things I have learned. Sometime it seems easier to ask for help. I did previously post about a P0AA6 with inf 526 and 612. Didnt know I could just search for the infs also. The diagram doesnt show the actual battery, I think, just the ecu. My battery charger cable attaches to the HV battery at the pack positive and ground which are probably the same place that the ecu connects hence the code. It doesnt throw the codes until the charger is connected to the cable.

 

That's just a how-to-read-electrical-diagrams thing. In the left part of the pink area, see that vertical stack of long-thin-line, short-thick-line things? That's the battery. That long-thin-line short-thick-line symbol is a battery cell in diagram-ese.

The diagram is simplified in that it only has three cells drawn above the service plug grip and three below. An obsessively-literal diagram would show 168 cells; if I remember right, 60 of them are on one side of the service plug and the other 108 on the other. The diagram is enough to give you the gist of things.

That could be your answer right there, that nothing is wrong with the car, but the charger you are using has a leak between the high-voltage connections and the car body or twelve-volt system.

 

I see it now but still looks weird.