Hatchback struts - super easy to replace or not so much...

Put a towel down so the hatch doesn't close, or use something to prop the hatch open.

One of these links might help :

Hatchback liftgate struts broken | PriusChat
Lift Strut Install - PriusLiftSupports.com

The link below likely has the least expensive strut options out there, but if you locate something else please post it in this thread.

2006 TOYOTA PRIUS 1.5L L4 ELECTRIC/GAS Lift Support | RockAuto

Best to never let the lift gate or hatch bounce open, helping it to open gently may prevents cracks around the hinges.

 

It's just popping them out and putting the new ones in. Best to have someone help you hold up the hatch when the strut is off, it becomes a bit heavy without the support.

 

It's pretty easy, procedure is same as replace hood struts..
Pop out the metal C clip on each end of old part with a screwdriver when remove it, and new part just pop in...
Good luck!

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Consider putting a piece of masking tape around the front of the C clip before prying it off. If these are like some I have encountered it may want to jump a very significant distance into a nook or cranny in the car, or into the nearest bush, after it comes off the shaft.

The struts on mine have leaked down to what I think is the perfect amount of assist. The hatch pops open with the button but only goes up a few inches, then it will go all the way up with a tiny amount of force (like from one finger), and it will stay up. This puts the absolute minimum amount of force on the hinges and should prevent any cracks from forming. No chance of the hatch bouncing open, the condition that SFO warns about.

 

nothing lame about your question as far as i'm concerned. i don't think this hatch has ever lifted properly ever since we bought the car new. it's been inconvenient pulling up on the off-center spot where the hand indention is. i just bought a pair of replacement struts from ebay and it was impossible to force the new piece onto the existing ball. after foolishly pressing on it, using a clamp and tapping the end with a plastic mallet, i finally resorted to removing the damn ball with a 12mm socket and trying to press the pieces together in a vise, which also didn't work. now i have to return these pieces and try to determine whose product to try next. i did find one very good video clearly showing the clip that had to be removed. i decided to attach a magnet to the clip before prying it off, assuming i would probably lose it when it finally came loose. i'm sure these are impossible to replace altho the "after market" pieces may not require their reuse. yes, good idea to make sure the hatch is securely supported while you do this. good luck to you and me both.

 

I just had the lift struts replaced on my 2010 Prius at a local shop and the trunk now opens with such force that it bounces when it reaches the open position. Do you think the incorrect struts were used or they need to be adjusted somehow. I never had to hold the trunk down to keep it from bouncing open before. It doesn’t seem like the correct oem part would operate like this. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

The OEM part won’t do this but cheaper aftermarket part will.

 

Welcome to PriusChat!!

Once sourced aftermarket options for this application, and chose the 'stronger' version for such, which was overkill (overall), tested it by installing one of the two, and ended up leaving both installed. Best to not let it bounce when opening, or it might cause hinge cracking.

No real adjustments are possible, short of installing one "new" strut and one "old" strut to balance out the potential lift.

FYI : you're moderated until you've posted 5 times.

 

Mismatched struts are going to twist the hatch as it opens. The net force on the hinges may be reduced but that twist would be mostly transferred to them, so it might not be a net win in terms of not cracking metal. Best to take the car back and have them put on the right struts. Even aftermarket struts come in force ranges, and whatever they installed is too much force. Our 2007's struts are pretty weak and I like them like that. The hatch needs a gentle lift to open, but it stays open once it gets there. This minimizes any force on the hinges and should help prevent cracking at the weld near the hinges, the one which is responsible for most trunk area water leaks. If I ever have to replace them I would aim for the same amount of lift, but since I don't know how much force they put out now, it would be mostly guess work.

And speaking of "right", a 2010 is a Gen 3, so this is the wrong forum.