Had tires replaced. Next day ABS and Traction Control Lights are on.

look under the car at each wheel to make sure the wiring harness plugs are connected. sometimes they get knocked off by grease monkeys.

 

Was it multiple days after the tire install before the problem occurred? And did you drive it a fair bit in the intervening time? The more time and driving, the less likely it's the tire shop, I would think.

Also, do you keep a bluetooth dongle constantly on the OBDII port? A few years back I was getting check hybrid system warning coupled with some brake warning lights, and return-to-basics braking. Brakes worked, but kinda "worked to rule".

This happened about 3 times over the course of over a year, and the 3rd time dealership mechanic suspected it was due to the scangauge always weighing on the port, maybe shaking, suggested I give it a rest and see how it went. I did that, and problem never returned.

My 2 cents: take it to the dealership, let them assess it, record and then dismiss the codes, reset everything, pay the $75~100, and then see how it goes, with nothing connected for a while.

 

Each wheel has an ABS sensor and if one was knocked loose you’ll get this error. That is by far the most likely cause. You need a real code reader. You should definitely be getting codes for this. Maybe a friend has a better code reader.

 

Doh, should have read the title more carefully. Still, might be something unrelated to tire shop, who knows.

 

Take it back to the "shop" that changed your tires and make them fix it.

 

Bisco has the best DIY advise.
Visually look for a disconnected, broken or frayed wiring.
Jacking up the car and removing the rims would be a logical step if visually can not fully see the wiring.

Returning to the original shop, I would be hesitant as if they caused the error will they admit it and repair for free?
Third party (dealer) FWIW could be evidence to recover costs from the original shop.

And...what did you find, what caused the errors?

 

Yep, I would bet it's just a slightly off connection in the wheel well that goes to the wheel speed sensor. Same thing happened to me when I changed my splash guard, I think those connectors are pretty easy to knock loose.

 

ABS & VSC. Toyota Prius | Springhill Toyota, Mobile AL


This diagram might help see how they are routed. Mine was just a front sensor wire routed incorrectly through the splash panel and I had the same issue. I Just moved the wire I didn't even mess with the connection. Seems to be a somewhat common issue, so that's why I assume they are sensitive in that regard. Hopefully it's as easy as that. Before taking it in maybe just give it a once over, I guess the concern would be that the shop might just want to throw a new sensor on.

 

tire kingdom!???! That has got to be the worst place to go...
I hope that it's something simple....

 

That's just NIFTY!

 

That is an AWESOME story!

My car has over 140,000 miles so I’ll have to figure out a DIY if that ever goes. There *has* to be a way to repair something that costs $3,000.

Please ask them for the old part, and photograph it if you can. I think they have to give you old parts if you ask. I’d like to see what this thing is.

 

The brake booster can be replaced for cheaper as long as you're willing to not have the dealership do it. I only got my "brake booster with master cylinder assembly" changed (as opposed to brake booster with master cylinder assembly AND brake booster pump assembly) for ~$300 (used part, new version) + ~$150 labor

Edit: Fixed part names per Mendel Leisk's post below

 

I think the "actuator" is part of "brake booster pump assembly", the lower component, with the two "beer cans". Toyota's terminology seems to be getting away from them: in this pic they've got an "actuator hose" and "actuator bracket", but no "actuator".



A few pages further, they do show "brake actuator bracket assembly", a sub-component of "brake booster pump assembly": (Full Repair Manual excerpt attached.)



Anyway, for the brake booster pump assembly (lower component, 2 beer can), removal is described in the Repair Manual as requiring removal of "front cross member sub-assembly". That is a total groaner, to put it mildly. I would guess the dealership service departments started protesting, and Toyota came up with a work around. (Service Bulletin attached.)