Fuel injector replacement

They are stupid easy to replace since they are right there easy to get at. A few things should be removed to make it easier. but once you pull the rail, they can just be pulled out. Some engines suck to work on, for the most part, this is one of the easier ones! Did you do any tests to make sure they were defective? I'd try cleaning them first before replacing them. Also, i'm not sure I would skimp on fuel injector quality with ebay stuff (unless it's denso). Knowing my luck, they would fail when I am nowhere near a place to fix them. To clean them, I just took a small section of fuel line (maybe 3/8, can't remember), blocked off one side with a bolt glued in with gasket maker (because it was in front of me at the time), then poked a hole in the side slightly above where the injector would end when the line was pushed in, and stuck in the red straw for a spray can. Now you can add carb cleaner to the injector without stuff flying everywhere. Then with a couple jumper wires and a momentary push button and a battery, you can spray the can, push the button quickly which will open the injector, and watch the junk explode out like a...

Turn the injector around in the hose, and do the same (reversing the flow of cleaner). that's all she wrote. Some would say go backwards first just so you don't push more junk through the injector. Either way, you should clean them throughly before replacing.

 

A piece of advice I got from Rich Jensen (who does the injector testing and reconditioning at Cruzin Performance) is when manually triggering an injector, use a common 9 volt gadget battery, not a 12 volt car battery. The injectors are designed for 12 volts but only in very short, computer controlled pulses. 9 volts is enough to open the injector, and a lot less likely to damage it while you're manually pulsing it with a jumper wire.

 

Buy spare I rings cause u will need it

 

O

 

A 9 volt battery to one of the injectors will also function as a rail pressure bleed.

 

I couldn’t remember exactly and had a sneaking suspicion that I had tried a 9 volt battery and it wasn’t enough juice. So when I got home I did a quick setup and 9v (brand new)didn’t work. The injector did open at 12v though. I did a quick video to show what I did. I also couldn’t find my button, so meh I had to tap the batt terminal. I wouldn’t do quick impulses either. I should have spaced them out to keep from potentially burning up the injector.

-Spiral

 

Some close ups and it is 3/8” fuel line. Remove the O-ring fist so the cleaner doesn’t damage it just in case.




-Spiral

 

I've definitely operated Gen 1 injectors (which are the same as Gen 2) on a rechargeable 9 volt. Can't say I've tried a Gen 3, but I didn't expect them to be a lot different.

 

You could always put two batteries in parallel if one doesn't work.
Using a new quality brand would probably be enough.

 

Define “quality”. I’ve never had any issues with Duracell, which is what I used in the first test. I’m at work now, but I’ll put a second in parallel this afternoon and see if it will open. Ya know, for science!


-Spiral

 

Duracell, Everyready, not their cheap one though, Energizer I think it's called.
But none from the dollar store!

 

I actually thought the ever ready were the “cheap” ones and energizer was the good ones. I mean, energizer does have that cute bunny that keeps on going and going and going and going and going and go....


-Spiral

 

After reading it, it does sound like the energizer is the cheap one.
I meant there "regular" battery, but that the energizer is the better one.
It is too early in the morning.

 

Ok. Here is the newest vid.

Two 9v in parallel with a button this time. The spray was definitely weaker compared to the 12v setup, but I’m thinking that might been due to me not pressurising it as much.

-Spiral

 

Type battery would also matter, assuming current is probably high for such a small battery.

 

12 v is fine

 

So I did get that cheap dongle (WiFi based) and I would disagree with the real world application (at least with my setup).

Using an iPhone 8 latest OS and car scanner app:

Carista BT adapter doing a level 3 scan: 2 min 13 secs

Generic Wifi adapter doing a level 3 scan: 4 min 51 secs.

I would agree that in both instances I was sitting in the drivers seat with the iPhone on
My left thigh/knee. I didn’t think to test distances from dongle to see which will be better, but I would agree/bet the wifi will carry further.

One other thing to note, if you aren’t using a specific phone type device, by using the wifi I was no longer able to use any internet services while driving (music, navigation, etc.). BT does not limit what you can use with the dongle. I would also add that BT is pretty much PnP where wifi you do have to connect to it then configure the app. So a little more involved. Final impression: I’ll stick with the BT and glad the wifi only cost me $1.59.


-Spiral

 

It will only draw the current it needs.
I believe they are designed for 12 volts So using 12 volts(DC) shouldn't hurt them.
It's it a CIS system?