Front brake pad change, no big deal.......

I've found that its just as easy to replace the brake pads (or shoes in the rear) as it is in any other vehicle. There's no difference.

 

I don't think the consensus here is changing the pads is anything out of the ordinary, but bleeding the hydraulic brake fluid requires the scanner to control the valves. At 250k miles, it's probably time to change out the hygroscopic brake fluid anyway, thus needing the tool.

 

Do it!!!!!!!! and save $$$$$$$$. It's really no big deal.

 

I too need to do my front Pads, at 170K miles! I assume you didn't bleed them, did you just compress the caliper piston back in?

 

I suggest you disconnect the 12V battery before you mess around with the brakes.

1) After you have removed a caliper, if the brake actuator pump decides to run then the caliper piston will shoot out. That can ruin your day since it is not easy to bleed the brake system without the Toyota diagnostic laptop or equivalent.

2) The mechanical shock caused as you are handling the calipers, compressing the piston, etc. may cause the skid control ECU to log a DTC if 12V power is applied.

 

John (Britprius) also recommended disconnecting the two ABS relays in the fuse box, I took his advice when I did my brakes. My 2004 only had 52K miles but the rotors had rusted from the inside out, and the rust had "climbed over" to make contact with the pads, which caused noises and would diminish the life of the pads which still had a whole bunch of meat on them. I put in cheap aftermarket rotors, sanded the existing pads smooth, lubed the caliper slides and called it a day.

 

sorry I didn't realize OP is a pilot.
Enter left downwind, extend two miles, cleared to land runway two eight right, number three following the Mooney on final and the Saberliner turning base, confirm information golf.

 

Pull the two ABS relays in the fuse box under the hood (they are the two blue relays) and step on the pedal until you hear a buzzer (two or three times slowly, like you would 'bleed' the brakes on a normal car)

the brake system charges the hydraulics as soon as you open the door... if you've ever wondered what that sound is when the door opens

 

This is the first I've ever heard anyone recommend stepping on the brake pedal until there is a buzzer, what is this for and how necessary is it? I didn't do this and had no problems, I would think this would cause the pad to be pressed tighter to the rotor, making it harder to remove for replacement or inspection.

 

I believe it's depleting a charged hydraulic accumulator. This should allow you to service the brakes without disconnecting the battery (and losing various stored things in doing so).

 

If you empty the accumulator and the battery is still connected it will automatically recharge it's self through the low hydraulic pressure switch and eject the calliper or rear cylinder pistons if the pads are removed or the rear brake drum is off. Do not do it!!!! Opening the drivers door is another way of starting the pump even without the key fob.

 

I just did the fronts brakes on my 2005. It was just like a previous poster mentioned, no different than any other car. I didn't disconnect any batteries, relays and my passenger door was open the whole time so I could set my manual on the seat.

It was fun.

 

Doesn't removing the relays disable that? I think it does.

 

It would be great for someone can do a DIY just on front and rear pads replacement with step by step explanation of the why. I could understand why the we might need to disconnect the battery and the ABS fuses since all are electronically controled. For those who did it without and nothing bad happened doesn't mean that it will not happen, maybe they just got lucky. We should be careful with doing this since someone can really get hurt from that piston shooting out to your hand. And then another that has to do with brake bleeding since that requires the scan tool or maybe that one is best left alone to the pros or the shop.

 

Although I have a gen iii, I will probably do a video soon of the brake flush and brake maintenance service (lube slide pins, clean pad contact points).


iPhone ?

 

For anyone else doing pads and rotors, here is a video I found helpful. The tech doesn't check anything with a torque wrench though, which is something I would do.

 

No mention of 12 volt disconnect? If you've got the caliper off, and open the driver's door, that'll ruin your day.

 

Nothing like improperly torquing the bolts that hold your braking system.