electrical issue with stop lights

Discussion in 'Prius c Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by ilya980, Feb 25, 2025 at 10:04 PM.

  1. ilya980

    ilya980 Junior Member

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    I've got a strange issue with some electrical components in my 2013 Prius C one. Today in the morning, the electronic key did not work. Key battery is new (later verified proper 3V), another key did not work either. I was in a hurry, opened the car with manual key. 20 minutes later when I parked the car, I saw that all 3 stop lights were erratically blinking even with ignition turned off. When I came home, I turned the ignition off and noticed that the inside fan stayed on. The stop lights would either blink erratically or stay on. I tried to diagnose the issue with Techstream, but found nothing. I tried testing stop lamp switch with Techstream, and the test seems fine. Stop lights would turn on for 3-5 sec and then go out, as described in the test.

    The inside fan stays on even after car is turned off. The only way to turn it off is to actually start the car, then press the "off" button, and then turn the car off.

    The door locks used to click and lock when the car reaches a certain speed (like 3 mph). Now they click right after I start the car. I noticed that the car randomly locks itself.

    Electonic key does not work. Neither lock, unlock, or panic button. Manual key works.

    The 3 stop lights (one on each side and the bar above the hatch window) stay on after ignition is off.

    My first thought was bad stop lamp switch. I took it out. Stop lights went out, but I can't drive, because the transmission shifter is now blocked. The electronic key still does not work even with stop lamp removed.

    I can't think of any reason like accident, flooding, etc.

    Any ideas of what the problem might be or how to diagnose this further?

    Thanks.
     
  2. BiomedO1

    BiomedO1 Senior Member

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    start with the 12VDC battery health & DC-DC converter operations.

    Good Luck...
     
  3. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    It is important that the Electronic key does not work.

    It is necessary to understand why.

    Either these are problems with the electronic key, the battery does not work, the electronic key board is damaged.

    Or this is a problem with the immobilizer, antennas that should detect the electronic key.
     
  4. ilya980

    ilya980 Junior Member

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    When the key battery was old, the key would gradually stop working. It would work only sometimes, from a short distance. Today both keys abruptly stopped working. One key has new battery. It worked fine yesterday, no signs of failing. The keys did not work today at all, not a single time.

    Good idea to check 12V battery health. It is old.
     
  5. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    Yes, a 12V battery can cause various problems.

    And also animals that chew through the wiring.
     
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  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Sounds like that car has more going on than just a stop light issue. I would suspect some damage to the wiring somewhere.
     
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  7. ilya980

    ilya980 Junior Member

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    I replaced the stop light switch. It did not work :(

    I noticed, that if I remove the switch, the car seems perfectly fine. The key works flawlessly, tried it 20 times. The inside fan stops as it should. But I can't drive like that because the shifter is locked.

    With the switch installed the car drives fine, the stop lights work as they should, the fan starts and stops as it should, nothing wrong is noticeable. However, once I stop the car and turn the ignition off, the stop lights stay on. They don't blink anymore. The fan stays on but stops if I push on the brake pedal. Then it resumes if I release the brake pedal. To turn it off I need to start the car and press the "off" button. Then the fan stays off. The electronic lock/unlock key actually works sometimes, but more often it does not. The car also often locks by itself.

    The lights were off when I was changing the switch, but they came on immediately after I plugged the new switch in without even installing it into the bracket. Lights never came on with the switch removed.

    How can brake lights stay on with the switch depressed? Is there another way for the brake lights to turn on bypassing this switch? Is there some kind of relay that could be getting power around the switch when it should not?
     
  8. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    How did you determine that the switch was bad?

    When you connected the connector on the switch, power was supplied to the brake light circuit. What position was the switch in?
     
  9. ilya980

    ilya980 Junior Member

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    I never determined the switch was bad. I tried to replace it, and it did not work.
    When I plugged the connector the switch white cylinder is out, as if the brake pedal is depressed. I pushed the white cylinder into the switch (as if releasing the brake pedal), but lights stayed on. This is all with ignition turned off.
     
  10. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    If you remove the 7.5A STOP fuse, do the STOP lights come on?

     
  11. ilya980

    ilya980 Junior Member

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    With the 7.5A STOP fuse removed the lights stay OFF when the switch is plugged in regardless of the switch position, depressed or not. The electronic key works perfectly too.
     
  12. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    12V is supplied to the Stop lamps from the 7.5A STOP fuse via the Stop Light Switch Assembly.

    When you remove the fuse, 12V power does not enter the circuit and the lamps do not light.

    When you turn off the stop switch, the lamps also do not light. Therefore, the fault is in the Stop switch.

    Or some false control signal is supplied to it from the Brake system.

     
  13. ilya980

    ilya980 Junior Member

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    With the fuse installed the only way to turn the lights off is to physically disconnect the switch. If the switch is connected, lights stay on regardless of the switch position. This suggests false control signal to the switch. Do you know where is the connector discussed in this thread? Rear Brake lights stuck on all the time | PriusChat

    I just replaced the stop switch with a brand new one from the Toyota dealer. It should not be faulty.
     
  14. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    Are you suggesting to look for the answer in the Gen3 thread?
    But you have a Prius C. Right?
     
  15. ilya980

    ilya980 Junior Member

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  16. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    Then let's look at the diagram from Prius C.


    A false signal is that it should not be there, but it is.

    For example, active radar cruise control detects an obstacle ahead and gives a command to brake all systems.

    To prevent your car from being hit from behind, cruise control via the Power Management Control ECU also gives a command to the brake lights and the Stop lights come on despite the fact that you did not press the brake pedal.
     
    #16 MAX2, Feb 28, 2025 at 12:15 AM
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2025 at 12:20 AM
  17. ilya980

    ilya980 Junior Member

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    So, it could be a corroded connector on the ECU or the faulty ECU. I live in MA near the ocean. Corrosion is likely. Do you know where the ECU connector is with wires going to the switch?

    I don't have cruise control, but it is probably irrelevant. ECU can still send an erratic signal.
     
  18. ilya980

    ilya980 Junior Member

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    Is this the connector on the ECU?
     

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  19. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    Yes, a signal can be the unit falsely, even if the system is working properly.

    False signals can be problems with the units, wiring, or water and oxides in the connectors.

    I have given you 3 connection diagrams with the Stop Light Switch Assembly.

    By disconnecting the connector from the control unit one by one, you will find the unit or circuit that is creating the false signal.

    When the unit turns off and the lamp goes out, this will indicate the source of the false signal.

    If, when the units are disconnected, the lamps remain lit, then the cause is probably in the Stop Light Switch Assembly connector.
     
  20. MAX2

    MAX2 Active Member

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    Power Management Control ECU connector B pin(7) (23)

    Skid Control ECU with Actuator (Brake Booster with Master Cylinder Assembly) pin (3) (6) (33)

    Junction Connector pin (2) (3) (7) (9)